Jump to content
classicdmax

rewiring 73' C series help

Recommended Posts

i plan to try to begin to rewire my 73' 16h hydro (no name) at some point in the near future. the previous owner(s) have butchered what is there and some functions do not work.

does anyone have any pointers, dos, dont's to offer up?

i am fairly handy with 12v wiring. as of now the lights, elec clutch are not wired and/or not working. i just assume to run new homeruns from source to device. i have found a wiring diagram but sometimes have trouble following those damn things. from a superficial look it seems most of the wiring if 12ga?? are there, or should there be any inline fuses??

 

thanks for the help

j-

also, part of the reason i want to replace most of what is existing is to clean up the bees nest of wires from previous owner, i also plan to run new lines in wire loom to keep things on the neater side

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, classicdmax said:

should there be any inline fuses??

Fuses are a good thing, lots of older :wh: didn't have them and should have. Presuming you have a battery ignition system with points and a coil the following simple diagram should be helpful. The wire sizes are not Gospel, if you want to use a larger size (smaller number wire gauge) that is fine. The second and third are for reference for other systems.

Basic points ignition with solenoid.jpg

battery ignition tractor-wiring.jpg

Mag. ignition tractor-wiring.jpg

 

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going to try to get started on rewriring all components under the hood. First step complete....purchased 14ga copper tinned wire, heat shrink discos and inline fuses. For starters I'll be focused on lighting and elec clutch as they are not currently working.....any pointers out there?IMG_0522.thumb.JPG.413ebd5e373a729000b2789d6e2774eb.JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If any of the wiring is factory remove it stretch it out an attach it to a board or your bench That is then your pattern.  For hacked wires attach one end (the hardest to get to)guesstimate (on the long side) the amount you will need cut it off the spool then work the wire to the destination.  May waste some but that s life.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used all 12 gage when I rewired my c160. And I crimped then soldiered all the connectors. Clean and used electrical grease. 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heavier wire is maybe better but 14ga is adequate and all I use

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

14 ga is fine.  I would replace all of the battery cables as well :twocents-twocents:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any suggestions on this headlight bezel, I intend to clean up and rattle can with chrome, however the bulb sockets are shot, anyone know where I can get replacements. I do not ever recall seeing these while cruising this site or ebayIMG_0529.thumb.JPG.b019365ffc9d7f0c4c56f61b85e7c3b1.JPGIMG_0530.thumb.JPG.2ac707c6994498fdff5af1fd40e1a57d.JPGeBay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They may be salvageable.  Spay and soak the bulb bases with PB Blaster /Kroil whatever you like.  Needle nose pliers will collapse and twist to get the bases out.  Beneath them will be a Bakelite disk with the contact wire in it beneath that a spring. If it wont come up and out an ice pick up along the wire may help. A round wire brush as used to clean out copper fitting for plumbing will clean up the inside of the socket

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A replacement wire with contact, spring and disc should still be available from an automotive jobber if needed.

 

Garry

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just assume go new, sarge I like your style!

 

although I have begun the PB treatment and will see where it goes from there.

 

thabks fellas!

 

btw, 1156 bulb I do believe....?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:text-yeahthat:   1156 would be right...and I think NAPA carries those sockets...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got around to rewiring the lighting circuit. I ran all new home runs from light switch back to the fixtures, including the power lead from main harness along with new 30a inline blade fuse and holder. Installed led bulbs, which turn out they flicker when machine is running. Anyone have any solutions...perhaps a resistor. Not sure if it's worth the hassle and expense or should prob just install the appropriate halogens. Headlight bezel cleaned up nicely but disappointed with how the "chrome" paint finished upIMG_0530.JPG.bcc1e110207fdff80b935751cb7cf284.JPGIMG_0535.JPG.53e5ae86e5ce9e7a5ba58572067e5da1.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a thought, I am not an electrician.. have you though about wiring the lights directly from the battery,  That would in my mind act a damper from any fluctuations coming from the regulator which is converting AC to DC. (wouldn't hurt to try it temporarily...) Hope some one more electrically savvy than I comes along.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's not a bad idea, i suppose I could bypass and disconnect the power source at ignition harness and go directly from battery as you said. My only fear is that it took me several months to muster the gumption to get this far, it could be a few more before I make the change. I'll try to give a whirl this weekend

rhanks for the tip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, classicdmax said:

flicker when machine is running

:twocents-02cents:            If the wire to the lights is next to the spark plug wire it could be picking up an induced voltage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends what close is....headlight wire runs along underside of frame, rear runs straight back by hydro shift to under the seat pan

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, that isn't the problem, they would need to be right next to each other for a few inches for inductive transfer to happen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any other input here on using led's? Pfrederi suggested wiring directly from battery, is this the solution to prevent lights from fluttering when running!

thanks fellas for the help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, classicdmax said:

Any other input here on using led's? Pfrederi suggested wiring directly from battery, is this the solution to prevent lights from fluttering when running!

thanks fellas for the help

It would be simple to try direct battery feed.  There is a wire connector behind the grill where the 2 socket lead join and hook to the one feed wire from the light switch.  Disconnect it and run a jumper wire from the battery to the head light side of the connector lights will be on all the time but after you start her up you can see if they still flicker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×