Picked up a Snow Blade

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

This was on our local CL.  I wasn't looking for a snow blade as my JD GX345 is my snow removal machine, but for the price I had to buy it and it was close by.  It's missing the angling lever and the blade edge is completely worn down, but it will suffice.  It will probably go on my 416-8.

 

 

[slammer302 2,154]

I seen that looks good for the price

[DougC 2,641]

Always nice to have a spare snow pusher ready to go these days. The weather gets crazier every year!  

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,546]

What's your plan for a cutting edge?

 Mike.....

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Mike,

I'm not sure, but it depends on the surface.  I might get me small flat stock metal and bolt it on, and/or I might get some rubber and use that.

 

All,

Does anyone have the dimensions for the lever for angling the blade.  I need the dimensions for the one that has the bend in it to clear the footrests on the later models.  I need dimensions on all the holes, the bend, and also the rod that goes from the bottom to the handle thingy/lever.  Items 19, 20, 26, and 27 mainly in the attachment below.

blade lever.tiff

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Got it mounted on the 416.

[RandyLittrell 3,827]

Those newer models are growing on me. I don't even have the one you sold me home yet and thinking about more! This hobby is addicting!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

If sure is, Randy.  And they seem to breed without us knowing it.

[Walt 339]

Seen the handle in our classifieds the other day. Just checked it may not be available it was a wanted add an one member offered to give it to another. I can measure and sketch you a print of one I bent to work on my 1980 1100 special if that's the correct era floor board clearance your looking for.

Edited October 2, 2016 by Walt

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

1 hour ago, Walt said:

Seen the handle in our classifieds the other day. Just checked it may not be available it was a wanted add an one member offered to give it to another. I can measure and sketch you a print of one I bent to work on my 1980 1100 special if that's the correct era floor board clearance your looking for.

I would appreciate it if you could get some dimensions.

[Walt 339]

Will do a drawing today with the hole sizes and locations I will also give the angle I bent the bar to clear my break petal the way I did mine it is close to tractor does not go outside of footrests. I will also draw up the small lever on handle for pulling pin to articulate blade. Had already thought of drawing it up rather you replied needing it or not since this is a perfect teaching moment. I already notified the 4 oldest grand kids they were getting to learn some thing from me after church today. I see you want bar, lever, bolt for lever, and rod from lever to triangular rocking link on frame. Do you have the rod that goes from bottom of bar to blade to articulate it left and right?

 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Yes, I have that rod.  Thanks.

[Walt 339]

Will do a drawing today with the hole sizes and locations I will also give the angle I bent the bar to clear my break petal the way I did mine it is close to tractor does not go outside of footrests. I will also draw up the small lever on handle for pulling pin to articulate blade. Had already thought of drawing it up rather you replied needing it or not since this is a perfect teaching moment already notified the 4 oldest grand kids they were getting to learn some thing from me after church today. Will post it this evening. 

Ok just for full disclosure my lever was originally bent in the opposite direction I bent it the way it is now last spring while figuring out how to attach Wheel Horse dozer blade a neighbor gave me last fall so these are not factory bends but are the original hole locations. These bends bring lever up between brake petal and tractor body, it did articulate and pin lock pulling back rocking blade left forward or right was never a concern. Also if you PM me your address I will mail you the drawings and notes with sketches I am using to provide this information to you.

First #27 is a 1/4 - 20 x 1" bolt that mounts trigger to lever you will also need #28 a 1/4 - 20 nut to keep bolt from falling out.  Incase you don't have them #s 21 & 22 are a 1/2 - 13 x 1" bolt to mount lever to frame and nut used to lock mount bolt once lever mounted with clearance to rock on bolt.

 

Edited October 3, 2016 by Walt

[Walt 339]

Now on to the trigger #26 it is made up from 3 parts. 1) A 3/8 diameter rod 4 7/8" long, this rod is bent 5/8" from one end to 30 degrees. 2) A short plate measuring 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide and 1 1/2" long. 3) Is a longer plate 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide and 2 3/8" long. The hole sizes in plates since I see I left them off drawing are one .261 a letter g drill bit or a hole to clear a 1/4" bolt, on long plate there is a small hole on one end this hole .152 a #24 drill bit needs to be clearance for 1/8 inch rod. The holes in both plates only need to have clearance for the bolt and rod so don't stress on my precise dimensions or the letter and number drill sizes. I also did not include the radius of 13/16 on ends of plates you could probably get away with just grinding small radius on corner to break corners from being a sharp corner or a snag hazard. The drawing for trigger is only the upper part of 4th picture in this post I will repost and reference the lower drawing when I cover # 19.

Edited October 3, 2016 by Walt

[Walt 339]

I will now cover #19 I recommend you make this last and will cover why I recommend this after covering and explaining drawing. You will need a 1/8" diameter rod 23 7/16" long. Measuring from inside of the bends on each end I got measurement of 21 27/32. The bends are not the same inside width of small bend is .215 less than 1/4", larger bend measured .345 almost a 1/32" less than 3/8". There is also a 14 degree twist from end to end so the two bends are not on same plane. This all being said I would simply fake it. Once you have the other parts made and mounted with blade locked by pin in straight on push location and rod you said you did have connected to bottom hole in lever every moving part should be set in none moving neutral position. If you take the 1/8" rod and a pair of needle nose pliers make a small bend on one end this will go through hole in triangular rocking link check it isn't to tight and swings freely when running up by trigger. Next I would hold rod next to the trigger while it hangs in released position mark the hole location on rod and bend rod 90 degrees. Before proceeding since you can always straighten out the last bend I would use small pair of vise grips clamped on rod were it comes through trigger to check pin release. If it works as intended then remove vise grips put flat blade screw driver between trigger and rod to maintain rod to trigger clearance and bend rod to finish project.    

[Walt 339]

Ok on to the lever Item #20, like I posted previously this lever was bent in opposite direction away from tractor in one picture you can see the marks I made with a sharpie to maintain locations while reversing them. The angles are not factory but are what I found worked to clear any obstacles ie. footrest and brake pedal keeping blade from articulating left. In the pictures I got 1 with it standing on edge with a 6" scale to show if you were to get a 3" wide 5/16" thick 33 1/8" long piece you could cut the 13 degree angle in top drawing of print I've made you. Otherwise you would have to cut and weld to create that angle with out it you may need really long arms to articulate it to the right. Otherwise measurements are 5/16" thick, 1 1/4" wide, 33 1/8" long I used a cloth tape measure to get length without having the bends mess up measurement. Now as for the holes only the bottom hole is located on center other two are offset to one side or other and are noted on print with measurements to locate centers of each hole. If you look closely at dimensions on both views on this drawing it will become clear that the previously mentioned 13 degree bend is between the 2 bends I reversed to make it fit.   

Let me know if you have any questions I check in a couple times a day to see if anything catches my eye that want to read about.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Thanks, Walt.  I'll go through this and see if I can make 3D models from this info and then produce a 2D drawing.  Thanks, again.

[Walt 339]

1 hour ago, T-Mo said:

Thanks, Walt.  I'll go through this and see if I can make 3D models from this info and then produce a 2D drawing.  Thanks, again.

No problem only thing I had planed to do yesterday was to put away tools and sweep garage floor basically clean up from last weeks projects. This allowed me to give so basic knowledge to some youth, use some skills I haven't used since leaving my chosen trade and most important got to be out in sun after a week of rain.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Here is what I have so far with the 3D model.  There may need to be some tweaking as getting multiple bends, and a bend within a bend, is tricky when it comes to getting accurate dimensions.

[Walt 339]

That looks good, only thing I noticed was the trigger plates looked like they were on opposite sides as mine. So I ran out to garage and they are reversed not sure if it matters tho. 

4 hours ago, T-Mo said:

Here is what I have so far with the 3D model.  There may need to be some tweaking as getting multiple bends, and a bend within a bend, is tricky when it comes to getting accurate dimensions.

Would it help if I measured each section of edge to get you specific points to plot your 3D model? If so I will measure the corner of top edge facing you in drawing. Since my lever could use cleaning and paint I can scribe marks plotting it out to get you the closest dimension I possibly can.

 

Edited October 4, 2016 by Walt

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Walt,

Yes that would help.  Also, you asked about the rod to angle the blade, I was wrong.  I don't have that.  I do have smaller diameter rod that pulls the pin to allow the blade to pivot, but not the larger diameter rod that goes from the lever to the blade that makes the blade move left or right.  So I need that rod's dimensions if it's possible.

[Walt 339]

Okay I've already planed out most of tomorrow but should have couple of hours to get a point to point layout done for you, will also take pictures and measurements of pivot rod for you. I should have them posted tomorrow evening some time after 7pm est. or 1900 if you prefer.      

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

No rush.  I just been modeling this up on my free time, so it will take a while anyways.

[Walt 339]

9 hours ago, T-Mo said:

No rush.  I just been modeling this up on my free time, so it will take a while anyways.

Okay I've already planed out most of tomorrow but should have couple of hours to get a point to point layout done for you, will also take pictures and measurements of pivot rod for you. I should have them posted tomorrow evening some time after 7pm est. or 1900 if you prefer.      

 

Well I'm glad your not in a rush it will be Friday or Saturday before I can get to it now. About midway through my day it seemed every time I turned around today someone or something impeded my progress took me 2 times longer than planed to get everything done. On upside I did get woodruff key seat cutter and belt I need for my project. I also arranged lathe access to machine part I need to add to crank support for it to lock into tach a-matic. Tomorrow morning I'm picking all the parts I need to go through brakes on a car that my granddaughter will be driving soon as her mother and I both approve her skills to solo. 

[Walt 339]

Well this morning went so smoothly I ended up with an hour and a half to kill before the grandkid got home from school to learn how to do the brakes on car she will be driving so I got the info you needed.

From looking at your 3D model it appears you're using a CAD program to work this up so as you will see in the pictures I used a precision square to scribe the lines fully from edge to edge. This allowed me to measure both of the edges labeled A and B on the print I drew up for you 3 of the measurements were the same on both edges so I only noted those with the single measurement. On the trigger end you will notice the radius isn't perfect under the rubber cover I did note the 1/8" difference on drawing. The section with the 2 dimensions should help you with getting a more accurate angle of the kick back noted as 13 degrees on previous post. Only way for me to get any closer would be to use die-grinder to under cut edges at each bend point to get protractor head to fit tighter. I also took pictures of the 1/2" rod that goes from blade to lever for articulating left and right using a 36" rule and a combination square. The end that goes into lever may be slightly more than 90 degrees as opposed to blade end since lever when mounted to frame isn't at 90 degree angle to blade (didn't think of that till typing this). You may want to wait for the cotter key locations till you have rod working my pin on blade end is pain in butt to pull. I included picture of trigger so you can see it assembled.