Lane Ranger 10,495 #1 Posted May 23, 2016 My brother asked me to post a question about the bearing plate used on Kohler 10 and 12 HP K style motors. He is having an issue with a motor where the flywheel seems to be loose on the crank and he thinks that there may be some difference in the bearing plates used on the 10 and 12 HP Kohler electric start motors on the bottom tolerances of the plate. Anyone have any experience with any differences on these , let me know what you think may be happening. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #2 Posted May 23, 2016 Lane, the bearing plates are usually interchangeable on the electric start models. The difference may be in the flywheel clearance; magneto or stator style. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,495 #3 Posted May 23, 2016 Paul: David changed one and he was having clearance issues - It may have been a magneto type although we did not have many of those@! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prondzy 3,867 #4 Posted May 24, 2016 Lane, there were different bearing plates on the shallow pan k241 motors used in the 1045's and 1055's they were smaller diameter plates than a k301 or 241 found on say a c100 or 120 for example. The only other difference I have found is in a high or low mount bendix starter. If the flywheel seems loose does he have the thick (about 1/8 to 3/16 washer) installed before the flywheel nut? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,495 #5 Posted May 24, 2016 Tom: Thanks for the info. I will ask him about the washer. Yes he is working on a 1055. The motor though is from a different model tractor. This will be a starter/generator type motor for sure and I forgot to mention that fact. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,328 #6 Posted May 24, 2016 Just a thought, this happen to me. Flywheel had a microscopic crack down on the keyway slot. When tighten it would open up enough to allow the flywheel to become loose. Not loose as in you could feel it, but loose as in vibration. I would recheck the torque and would have to re-tighten. To think about a crack you can't see in a cast flywheel is scary stuff. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,495 #7 Posted May 24, 2016 Thanks MalMac -More good information ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prondzy 3,867 #8 Posted May 24, 2016 Lane if this is for a 1055 he will need a shallow pan motor like what would have been on it originally and he will have to switch over the bearing plate, flywheel, and flywheel cover to the new motor for this swap to work. A 1055 flywheel will be solid cast on the back side where a 10 or 12 from a C series will be hollowed out for the stator and magnet ring. And I'm not 100% on this next part but I beleive a 1055 will have a 1" diameter crankshaft on the pto side where others are 1 1/8" diameter not sure if this will make a difference in the bearings or the flywheel end of the crank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites