Jump to content
WNYPCRepair

522xi front end loader build.

Recommended Posts

9 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

:text-woo:  :popcorn:

 

 

Hopefully, the entertainment won't be the boom arms snapping in half. :) 



 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Doc724 was a big help in getting my build going.  Thanks again Doc!

 

:handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Can't wait to see how yours turns out Brian!

 

If you haven't picked out a spool valve yet, Surplus Center sent me a catalog today in the mail and these (2) are a good fit for a garden tractor FEL application 

 

no float:  http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/2-SPOOL-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB21BB5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7862.axd

 

with float detent:  http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/2-SPOOL-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB21GB5C1-DA-VALVE-W-FLOAT-9-7862-F.axd

 

Not sure how much use I'll get with the float option.  My valve came with it. For nearly $100 it's kind of a spendy option.

 
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

with float detent:  http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/2-SPOOL-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB21GB5C1-DA-VALVE-W-FLOAT-9-7862-F.axd

 

Not sure how much use I'll get with the float option.  My valve came with it. For nearly $100 it's kind of a spendy option.

 

 

 

Actually that is the one I had picked out.



Some quick help from anyone with hydraulic knowledge. 

I'm getting ready to order pump, valve and cylinders. I know nothing about SAE connectors. The pump is SAE 10, the valve is SAE 8, and the cylinders are SAE 4 (or possibly 3/8" NPT), will this cause any issue when getting hoses made (or any other issue)?
 

Edited by WNYPCRepair

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get all sorts of sae reducers fittings to make what you have work.  Northern tool or even tractor supply.

 

Plus universalhoseandfittings.com is great for fitting up whatever you need on each end of a given custom hose.  That's who I used for hoses.  For oddball hose orders just make the order over the phone.   Thats how how I ordered my hoses.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

You can get all sorts of sae reducers fittings to make what you have work.  Northern tool or even tractor supply.

 

Plus universalhoseandfittings.com is great for fitting up whatever you need on each end of a given custom hose.  That's who I used for hoses.  For oddball hose orders just make the order over the phone.   Thats how how I ordered my hoses.



Cool, all hydraulics ordered except cylinders and hoses. 

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/1-5x16x1-DA-HYDRAULIC-CYLINDER-WOLVERINE-WWXT1516-S-9-8770-16.axd

That is the cylinder I am looking at, unless someone sees a problem


My pump
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329712_200329712

And valve

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/2-SPOOL-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB21GB5C1-DA-VALVE-W-FLOAT-9-7862-F.axd

Edited by WNYPCRepair

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had trouble finding a pulley for that 1/2" !/8" key shaft. Ended up having someone make the key slot for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, squonk said:

I had trouble finding a pulley for that 1/2" !/8" key shaft. Ended up having someone make the key slot for me.

Northern tool and tractor supply carries them. I think they will special order whatever size you need.as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked at Norther tool. No 1/2" bore pulley listed with a 1/8" keyway.  Plus I needed a 5" diam pulley. You have to be careful sizing the pump and what speed it's turning. The hydraulics may be too slow so you're sitting there all day trying to do  a job or too fast that you can't really control movement well.

 

When I built my PK loader, I sat down with a hydraulics guy and he figured out the pump speed based on the pump size, engine speed, cylinder volume and stroke. and how long I wanted it to take to raise the boom. There is a lot to consider.

Edited by squonk
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian, at first I thought this is going to be such a detailed and daunting task that I just wouldn't do it, I'd find something that was 75% or better there and mod or finish the rest.  But now that I've had a chance to think about it, and well, all things considered, I still feel the same!  :ROTF:  But, you're not going to build this alone.  Now I see that you are going to have so much help from so many very experienced builders that you just might build the best FEL ever!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's true, the 1/2" ID bore pulleys are a bit more rare than the other larger bore pulleys.

 

You need one in the neighborhood of 6" and it needs to take a B-section v belt (same as a 5L)

 

McMasterCarr has a couple that fit the bill.  Here is one, McMaster part no. 6204K32

 

You'd probably run the throttle at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle to keep the hydros from getting too bouncy or jerky.

 

3CC2C228-61A4-4DB0-B034-52C64F6C66BA_zps

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will notice that pulley from Mc Master does not come with a key way cut for 1/2" bore. That's what I kept running into.

 

These pulleys have one set screw and a standard ANSI keyway. 1/2" bore sizes do not have a keyway.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah. No key way. You'd have to drill a small shallow divot or similar into the pump shaft for the setscrew to land on and better secure the pulley. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

McMaster also has split taper and QD bushings with keyways to adapt a b section pulley to a keyed 1/2" D shaft.

 

They just cost a bit more because you're buying 2 parts.  The bushing and the smooth bore pulley

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, squonk said:

 

You realize that the FEL and combo PK/FEL is only AWESOME!  That FEL would look SO good on my PK!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, squonk said:

 

 

Looks great Mike

 

 

 

 

 

Well, I ordered the cylinders, hope they work, as they were not cheap. :)

 

Edited by WNYPCRepair
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

Do the PF plans suggest using (4) identical cylinders?  Or slightly longer ones for the boom versus the bucket?



They show 4 identical cylinders. I had considered the same thing, that I didn't need the same length or the same stroke, but I finally just ordered 4 of the same.

 

 

I had to move the mounting holes at the mid attach point down about an inch and a half, and fill in the old ones. I was sloping down from back to front about 1 1/4" in 4 feet. I am still sloping down about 3/8", but I don't suppose it is that critical.

Didn't turn out too bad considering my limited welding experience. :) 

hole2.thumb.JPG.fd2265a9fae6f147129954a8hole.thumb.JPG.9d15a98291115d5625a24b918

 



Then I mounted it to check fit, and saw that I have a tight fit between the cross support for the pedestals and the motion control pedal bracket. I have the cross support back at 11 1/2" (instead of the 12 3/4 in Andy's subframe drawing) and only clear by about 1/4".

 

 

 

clearance.thumb.JPG.a7d48e3b1513f16f1c94

Sorry the picture is a bit crooked, I was laying on the floor, couldn't get a good angle.


The mid mount, clipped into the mid tach-o-matic

mounted.thumb.JPG.8ac791de4ba5a30d743452mounted2.thumb.JPG.d477238936472d646a8eb

 

 

A shot of the subframe with the 3/4 round stock cut to length and welded in

whole.thumb.JPG.490f07a5a44e23d57a0f0f73

I have a piece of angle iron tacked front and back to keep it square until I weld it all up. What are the chances that I would just happen to have two pieces of angle iron the exact length I needed just laying around? I was shocked. :) 

Everything is just tacked at this point, except the round stock.

The rear axle mount. Mine stick farther out the back than Andy's, I have plans for those ends which I'll get into later. :)

Oh, and the 2" x 2" square stock is only 1/8" thick, not 1/4" like I thought. I would have liked to use 3/16" at least for those, but I used what I had on hand. If I think it is going to be a weak point, I can always add a length of 1 1/2" angle iron on each side to stiffen it up.

rear.thumb.JPG.a406cf2e171e72ef43a0e0c96

Now unfortunately, I am at a stopping point. I need the U Bolts for the rear, and the steel for the pedestals.

 

Edited by WNYPCRepair
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Extra long subframe rails....

 

Quick release suitcase weight bracket or other counterweight solution?

Lookin good!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

Extra long subframe rails....

 

Quick release suitcase weight bracket or other counterweight solution?

Lookin good!



You nailed it, but it will be able to do more than just weights. Trailer hitch, for one. Maybe even a 3 point hitch, though I really have no need for one, so I may not bother. 

I think to start I am just going to make a platform for cement blocks, since I have the blocks already.

Edited by WNYPCRepair

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Holy cow Brian!  Slow down!  I said I'd have time to watch but geese!  And you filled in those holes just fine for a newbie!

 

I'd want confirmation but I'm thinking that 1/8" box tubing is pretty darned stout for what you are doing underneath.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×