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Brian01

Brake pedal Set-Up

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Hey guys I put a tranny off of aSuburban 400 on an RJ58....i need pictures of how the brake pedal hooks up and belt tension (suburban 400 tranny)

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The tab on the side plate which holds the brake band is a different configuration on a 400 trans than the RJ-58. 400 is at 45 deg and the RJ is at 90 deg
Also the pedal on a 400 pushes the rod back and the RJ pedal pulls the rod forward. The 400 trans is designed to open the belt loop for tension and the RJ closes the belt loop for tension.
You can swap the side plates and clutch/brake parts.
You can use the 400 pedal, rod, pulley and belt guard
You can modify the arm to work with the RJ pedal, rod and pulley
You can move the tab by cutting and welding
Ect. Ect.

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I built a pedaland rod to work the brake...just gotta figure out the belt tension...maybe a spring on it somehow? Also have to move the engine pulley out just a bit to line up with the other two..

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Non working video link there.   
Youtube accounts are free/work great. 

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The little tab on the upper left of the frame between the hood stand and transmission is where a spring hooks to. The other end is hooked to the cotter pin holding the clutch rod in place. I've seen the spring hooked to the rod itself in place of the cotterpin as well as a hole drilled in the clutch arm and a few other methods. Whatever trips your fancy. I'll probably drill the hole.:)

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Have or know of any pictures of that?  I'm confused lol

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??

Well, the engine pulley wouldn't move, set screw broke off, tried drilling it but was made of hardened steel...had to get the grinder n cut that pulley off, hopefully find one today...but still gotta figure out a spring or something on the belt tension

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Here ya go Brian. I don't have a spring yet but the piece of wire gives you the idea. If you don't have the welded tab I've seen small eyebolts instead. As I mentioned, I'm probably going to drill a hole in the arm rather than use the cotter pin.

DSCN0310.JPG

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Oh OK, so supposed to be on brake rod itself....see I was thinking it would go on the other side connected to tension pulley arm. 

 

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Correct. I'll drill a hole where the black dot is once I get the spring.

Clutch spring mock up.jpg

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Ohh okay cool... Another ? How much fluid/grease is a sub. 400 tranny supposed to have? 

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1 1/2 quarts. I use Valvoline 80w90 but pretty much any good gear oil will be fine.

Edited by Racinbob

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Ok I had a quart of Suzuki 80-90 here I already put in it, so all I need is a half a quart lol...went out there a bit ago n noticed a wet spot under the tranny...got to lookin under there and it has a slight leak, right where side cover meets trans. Right behind the hitch...someone has JB welded it at sometime and now is leaking, so for now I just cleaned itreal good and j b waterwelded over it...I'll eventually just take it and have it welded.

I'm thinking it is wherethey were using it for a puller or something...when I received it, it had a homemade set of willy bars welded to the back. :no: lol

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OK I have a spring on it, now i think ima have to shorten my brake rod cause spring is too stout and pulls the pedal almost straight back lol

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The clutch rod should be 21" long.Make sure the clutch arm is secure to the idler arm rod with the roll pin. If you have the wrong one and it is too long you could cut one end off, thread it and use a threaded trunnion. Bingo, now it's adjustable like the 61's.:)
Also, when the belt cover is on the bolt will keep the idler arm from going past approx. vertical. Obviously the belt should tension tight before it goes that far. Belt too long maybe?

Edited by Racinbob

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Naw belt fits pretty snug...any shorter and it would spin all the time. If anything, too short lol think its 31". The rod, I'm not sure the length of it, but shortening it should bring the pedalbwck up to where it should "ride" at all times.

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Brian, just to add to the confusion, here is the spring arrangement on my Suburban

 

SAM_1247a.JPG

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You need one to get for it to clutch properly. There's a guy who make repops which is what I have. They are very nice.

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??

Well, the engine pulley wouldn't move, set screw broke off, tried drilling it but was made of hardened steel...had to get the grinder n cut that pulley off, hopefully find one today...but still gotta figure out a spring or something on the belt tension

Too late to help this time, but if you run into a need to drill out a hardened steel set screw just take a torch to it, heat it to red hot and once it cools you can drill it.

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OK, got it clutching decently, still grinds just a little, gotta kinda "slam" it in gear pretty quick. Now just gotta get exhaust on it.

 

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The clutch rod should be 21" long.Make sure the clutch arm is secure to the idler arm rod with the roll pin. If you have the wrong one and it is too long you could cut one end off, thread it and use a threaded trunnion. Bingo, now it's adjustable like the 61's.:)
Also, when the belt cover is on the bolt will keep the idler arm from going past approx. vertical. Obviously the belt should tension tight before it goes that far. Belt too long

The tension pulley rod doesn't even go back as far as the bolt hole for the cover (as seen in pic)

I did get a cover built for the top of the engine, where gas tank used to be...looks pretty good

Oh and here is one of the spring I put on...

VID_20150922_144835435.mp4

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The belt looks good Brian. Please don't let the gears grind at all or slam it in gear trying to avoid it. The input shaft must be completely stopped before shifting. The damage will be costly.

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