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Brian01

Kicking myself in the Rear!

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Brian01

 And that's how you remove a horse's @$$!

LoL

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Brian01

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AMC RULES
Looks great...
where'd you find that shifter boot?

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Brian01

lol...it's actually off of a lawn mower, was on a throttle or choke cable I believe.

Also bought a tiller today, transmission was locked up on it, but had a pair of iron weights bolted to the front. (If I can build a mount for them) they'll go on the front of the RJ..also had a  sweet running 205cc Briggs ima try n make work on it if the k90 doesn't work out.... Oh it also had a pair of 13x5.00 6 lugs that are going on the front!!      All for $25!

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AMC RULES
Yeah boy...   :greetings-clapyellow:
hard to beat that price. 

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Brian01

Tires are on..Tranny is in and engine fitted into place....

IMG_20150921_142341283.jpg

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AMC RULES
C'mon...  :greetings-clapyellow:
fire in the hole. 

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Brian01

Took it for first test run a bit ago...runs good, goes into gear good...

Gotta get exhaust built, figure out how the brake pedal hooks up and belt tension.

If anyone knows where pictures are...transmission is off a suburban 400

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Brian01

Omg...forgot about this thread....I'm sure everyone's seen where I'm at now on the RJ58, but if not here it is...

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Take it for a cruise once a day, everyday.

Oh, also ordered a decal kit today as well!

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Pullstart

What a difference!  Makes me want to get off my rear and take some time on the 502 to get it nice and shiny!  Great turnaround from the first page.

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AMC RULES
Difference really is incredible...
very nicely done Brian.
  :greetings-clapyellow:

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Brian01

Thank you

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Brian01

http://vid40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/briantlaird/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20150802_115341307_zpskdsi5pvs.mp4

 

Was just searching through photobucket n found a video I made of my ol electro, just thought id share...

 

Oh and this newer one of the Ride Away..

 

http://vid40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/briantlaird/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20151029_155920958_zps8i43dsij.mp4

Edited by Brian01
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857 horse

Brian......i had that issue....sounds funny but.......I put my seat spring on backwards...along with the tool box......looks ok to me......and nothing rubs...ever.

 

But then again.....nothing here is normal,,  lololo

horse,,,,,garden hose 005.JPG

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Brian01

lol whatever works..

 

I just cut a short 2x4, painted it really good and put it under there...its perfect..keeps it up off the fenders about oh 2 or more inches with a fat @$$ on it lol

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Brian01

Okay, I have mentioned this on another thread as well, I believe it's inevitable, but does anyone have any idea how to make paint stay on a seat? I've tried and tried. Sanding and repainting several times...including today even, no matter how hard it try, every time I get on and off, either takes a big ol chip out of the paint or has some blemish of some kind.

I finally just sanded it down with 60 grit, and left it, hoping that it being a little ruff, maybe it'll stay...but do have a few places, where it had chipped, that's down to bare metal. I'm thinking. I'm just gonna leave it be.

 

It's either that or take it all down to bare metal and just clear coat it.

Edited by Brian01

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953 nut

:twocents-02cents:       Paint the seat then clear coat with catalyzed hardener or send it off to be powder coated.

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Brian01

I don't know of any place around here that does powder coating.

 

The harder clear cloat may be an option.

This is what it looks like as of now

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Brian01

Gave this a try...added some more antique white to the bad/bare spots, couple coats of clear, antique white again then a couple more clear coats...we'll see how that holds uo....curing now....

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RedRanger

Spray can paint does not get as hard as auto paint or any other catalyzed paint.  You also need to make sure you have a good primer coat.  If you're spraying paint directly over bare metal, that will also cause this.

I'd strip the seat to metal, spray with a self etching primer, let dry a day or two, spray couple coats of white, let dry a few days, and clear coat with a compatible enamel clear.  Let dry a few more days.

 

Hardest part is you need to keep your ass off the seat for a about a week.  

 

Rattle can paint is soft, even when cured, and needs a good primer underneath as well.  I'm betting your issue is lack of a good primer and using it before it is fully cured.

Dry on the top is not the same as fully cured.  Most spray paints take a week or longer to fully cure.  Especially at lower air temps.

 

I'd take it in the house for a few days when you're done so it dries completely.

Edited by RedRanger
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Brian01

It has self etching primer, white and clear...yeah your right about spray cans not getting as hard. And yes that is my plan to stay off of it for awhile n let the paint cure good for a week or so.

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