Hanks 854 rebuild

[JPWH 5,308]

3 hours ago, Aldon said:

I've never done the electro tank thing.

 

Would a soak in the tank remove the rest seizing it together?

If line of sight allows it will. It seems to work pretty well up to a half inch total thickness. At least that is what I have experienced so far.

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Another option comes to mind; some time ago Ed Kennell did a post about pulling a stuck hitch pin. He drilled a few holes in the gap between the pin and the transmission case and put PB Blaster in the drilled holes, that allowed deeper penetration. give it a try and if it works you owe @ekennell a royalty for his patented technique. 

Thanks for the info I will try that  and if it works I hope @ekennell's royalty is within my means.

[Ed Kennell 35,788]

Not to worry Hank.   The only payment we need is a report on what worked when that wheel finally surrenders.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

E-tank rust removal is like plating in that the process is dependent on the direction of electron flow and somewhat "line of sight".  To make matters worse, where the penetrants did their work, they also hinder water from entering and therefore the rust removal process.  Better E-tank first, penetrant after.  Or HEAT the sucker and drive it off.

 

I do like the idea of a small pilot hole between the shaft and collar!  Going to remember that!  (I hope...)

[JPWH 5,308]

I'm almost ready. I ran out of welding rods but most of it is tacked up.

Edited February 28, 2016 by Hank01
Add picture

[Retired Sparky 526]

27 minutes ago, Hank01 said:

I'm almost ready. I ran out of welding rods but most of it is tacked up.

 

 

That's an awesome looking press. I have no doubt you will win in the end.

Edited February 28, 2016 by Retired Sparky

[JPWH 5,308]

I got the tie rods repaired today. Other than the rust they are in excellent shape so I wanted to use them instead of buying or making new ones. A little mig welding and grinding they came out pretty good.

Edited February 28, 2016 by Hank01
Spelling

[Ed Kennell 35,788]

A little welding????    That is an awesome job.

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

First class job, as everything has been turning out. Thumbs up.

 

Glenn

[DennisThornton 4,769]

2 hours ago, Hank01 said:

I got the tie rods repaired today. Other than the rust they are in excellent shape so I wanted to use them instead of buying or making new ones. A little mig welding and grinding they came out pretty good.

 

Holy crap!  I'm going to start sending some of my stuff to you!  Ya did good, but something you might want to consider next time...   Those rust pits, well, craters, really didn't weaken them to where there's a strength issue.  You could have filled those with autobody filler, or something like AlumaLead if you wish, sand and finish.  I bought a cast vise and was surprised that someone cared enough about it's looks to fill in some voids with autobody filler.  Looked great but didn't hold up to some of my pounding!  Metal filled epoxies, metal fillers or similar could be used as long as they aren't expected to add strength, just fill the voids.

[AMC RULES 36,945]

  I applaud the fact that someone...

cared enought to fill 'em with metal.  

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Just now, AMC RULES said:

  I applaud the fact that someone...

cared enought to fill 'em with metal.  

Indeed!  I was impressed!  " Holy crap!  I'm going to start sending some of my stuff to you!  Ya did good "  

[Aldon 4,826]

If it's worth doing, it's worth the time to do it 1st class! 

 

Its a disease or something. Once you get started on a restoration, it's really hard to fight the urge not to go 1st class if time, talent, materials etc are realistic.

 

At least it is for me. Whenever I am tempted to save a buck or take a short cut, I always end up going back and redoing. 

 

For or me it's a bit of a problem. Can't seem to do less. For me, restoring is another level beyond repairing.

 

Excellent job Hank. Your setting the bar high:-)

 

 

[JPWH 5,308]

I don't like to use filler on anything more than 1/16" and less if possible. 

Im still working on my filler skills. That is why you dont see a completed hood yet.

Thanks for the kind comments.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Thick fillers are not always taboo.  Large flat flexible panels, auto/truck hoods, roofs, deck lids and even the center of large flat panel doors and thick fillers don't do well together.  Panels flex and the thick fillers don't, so it cracks.  It's just too much in the wrong place!  Nothing wrong with filling a non-structural area that doesn't flex with a filler.  It's like filling a drywall hole, or a knot hole in a board.  Fillers aren't bad just too often abused.  

[Retired Sparky 526]

Holy Crap is exactly my thoughts. You guys of 'extreme talent' never cease to blow my mind.   Keep up the good work. But you don't really consider it work, do you???

[JPWH 5,308]

It really is fun to repair the neglect that this  has had  to endure but sometimes it is work. Something that is hard to some is easy to others.

Edited March 1, 2016 by Hank01

[JPWH 5,308]

I got the lift assembly apart and ready to blast. I had to work on the brake lever. I don't know what could have caused this.

I have had to repair, replace or replace and repair every part so far except the cast parts.

To date I have purchased from RS members:

Seat

Tool box and fenders

Transmission mushroom gear

Tire paint that I haven't used yet

 

Flea bay:

Motor tins

S/G belt cover

Choke and throttle cables

S/G rebuild kit

 

Other sources:

All new transmission bearings and seals

[Aldon 4,826]

These restorations can nickle and dime you into the poor house!

Edited March 2, 2016 by Aldon

[JPWH 5,308]

The way I look at it is I'll have a good working tractor and at less than half the cost of a cheap big box lawn mower. It will do anything I want it to do and I know it is mechanically sound because I will have gone through every inch of it.   

The bonus will be I will have a tool box and fenders left over to use on the modifications on my Raider that is my go to all purpose worker. I will be going through the Raider the same way when I complete the 854.

[JPWH 5,308]

The battle of the steering wheel is over.

A little drilling, soaking, and about three pumps  after contact with my homemade steering wheel press.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I'm pretty sure most of that was accomplished by the third pump!  Funny, your first posting had that steering wheel prominently in the middle of the picture.  Perhaps your first picture of the "After" will do so as well?

 

One battle after another my friend?  I think that's fine as long as you're the winner and I'm sure that's going to continue!

 

"Steering wheel won't come off so he builds a press just for that!  Yep!  He's going to win!"

[Phil854 130]

Amazing job on the tie rods!!!

[Pullstart 59,732]

Great progress Hank!  I've been away for a while so it's great to "binge" catch up! 

 

Not like it helps now, but sometimes I've learned to use candle wax as a quencher with rusted stuck stuff... HEAT it red hot like Dennis is talking about, then feed it the butt end of a chunk of wax and it'll pull it in just like solder and copper sweat joints.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I've read about using heat and candle wax and keep intending to try it.  Several say it works pretty well.

[JPWH 5,308]

The steering wheel I have was once a chew toy in its life so I figure I could try about anything without damaging a good steering wheel. 

What I discovered was heat will melt the plastic before it gets the metal hot enough.

The plastic becomes soft at about 150 degrees and starts melting about 200 degrees.

I think drilling holes at an angle to get penetrating fluid down deep then using a press is the best method for me.

I have been working on the damage I caused with the heat as well as the dog teeth impressions.

I will say the plastic welder ha sure come in handy.