jst1more 40 #1 Posted May 29, 2015 My auto 12 mower has an electric clutch that is acting up. I was thinking that replacing the electric clutch with a simple friction clutch might be the best fix. i was hoping a member might have had some experience with this swap? IS it fairly easy and are the necessary parts cheaper than buying a new electric clutch?Thanks.Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #2 Posted May 29, 2015 Before you trash the elect clutch, be CXERTAIN that all the wiring to it is in good CLEAN condition at the connections. These elect clutches are power hungry and just a little bit of voltage loss / leak will cause them to not work very well. Check or replace the dash switch too. If that all fails, I can set you up with all the hardware to install the manual clutch. Better yet, I MAY have a replacement elect clutch for you....not sure but will check in the am.Kinda busy around here...if you don't hear from me in a day or so, send a reminder to me at this email address:daveoman@windstream.net Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,278 #3 Posted May 29, 2015 (edited) It's not a difficult task. There probably will be a bit of fabrication. More on some than others depending on your model. If I'm correct in assuming yours is an early 70's (73 no name perhaps?) that would be one of the easier conversions. Edited May 29, 2015 by Racinbob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jst1more 40 #4 Posted May 29, 2015 Thank you both for your information, yes the tractor is a 73 no - name. To better address the problem, and my diagnosis may be all wet, but I think the electric clutch is draining more power than the stator can replace. When plowing snow, the tractor can run forever. Put on the mower deck, and you only have about two hours of mowing time until the tractor dies.My first solution was to replace the alt. meter and the stator. Current across the battery posts would increase some when the engine was running. I did buy used parts and maybe the parts I put on were not up to par? Anyway the problem didn't improve so my conclusion was that maybe the clutch's internal wiring was bad and was pulling more amps than the system could replace. I can't remember if i replaced the ignition switch. Anyhow I'm open for suggestions and I'm pretty much lost when it comes to tracking down electrical problems.My son is currently using this tractor to mow his yard (he puts it on the trickle charger after mowing) so my replies may be slow if I need to do some diagnostic work.ThanksScott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,499 #5 Posted May 30, 2015 The 101639 fuse for the clutch is a SFE 20. I would think a shorted clutch coil would draw more than 20 amps and blow the fuse.I'm thinking the charging system is not up to par and replacing the pto clutch won't fix that.Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jst1more 40 #6 Posted May 30, 2015 OK good point, i didn't think about the fuse, and i agree. I'll search some of the older post about checking out the charging system and go from there.thanks,Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #7 Posted May 30, 2015 A VERY common problem in the charging system is the rectifier and the 3 leg wiring connection to it. This rectifier MUST have an ABSOLUTE ground to the chassis. Many times I've solved elect issues by simply removing the rectifier and cleaning all the corrosion from it where it is bolted to the chassis (hoodstand). Take it off... clean up the 3-way onnector as well as the basic ground. . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jst1more 40 #8 Posted May 30, 2015 Thanks Dave, i like the starting simple approach. We'll see if we can find the weak link in the charging system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites