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Ouch! That is expensive!  So have you installed it yet?

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hasn't arrived yet, they make to order, it should be here end of next week. 
Callum 

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I'm currently planning how i am going to mount the 90 degree box, i have some ideas but i have just thought about making a thick plate that is bent to 90 degree, this is bolted to the front of the transaxle and supplies a plinth for the gear box to be bolted to. the front of the transaxle can then be braced from the bottom of the plinth. 
since my main point of attachment for the transaxle is at the axles with the clamp style things how much bracing would i actually need at the front? I'm thinking a strip of 10mm steel braced to the chassis should do it or should i go for more? 

thanks all,
callum 
 

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gearbox arrived yesterday:banana-dance::banana-dance:very happy with it. pictures to follow.
I have contacted a friend that might be able to help me bend and cut the plate for mounting it. i have decided to use some 10mm plate! it will add some good weight and be very heavy duty. I'm thinking of making a sort of skid pan to cover the belts and workings? it would be quite easy to do but will make servicing harder. what do you guys think? the tractor is quite high off the ground with the new front wheels. 
while I've been waiting I've been working on the hitch lift, I've got a bar that spans the chassis with some rocker arms, these need to be welded in place and i need to back a guide pulley for with wire running from the leaver to the rocker arms to prevent it rubbing on the transaxle. 
I have also mounted a light on the back of the seat pan, this is fully positionable like a spot light. i was going to use a a red light but i thought since I'm not using it on  the roads i can use it as a plough light, this just needs wiring in now. this light will be separate to the headlights and so will have its own fuse. because of this and the horn i will be fitting a automotive fuse box rather than having loads of inline fuse holders all over the place! i reckon i will use one of those cast aluminium project boxes to mount it in.
I have also got round to making battery clamp, basically a strip of steel bent around the battery and bolted to some angle iron and on the other side i have a spring which is attached to another piece of angle iron. it does the job. 

 

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finally got around to putting the pictures up, as you can see the gearbox looks pretty heavy duty and heavy duty it is! I've just got to get that steel plate cut and bent now. 
with regards to my hitch lift who can spot my stupid mistake? no prizes by the way!
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thanks for looking,
callum

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Your hitch lift hits the brake shaft?  Will you be attaching the front of the transmission to the frame so it wont stress the mounts on the rear?
That is a pretty stout gearbox! Is it a 1:1 ratio?
 

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it comes very close to the gearbox but doesn't hit it, the stupid mistake is the fact that i have cut the notches for the different chain positions the wrong way!
yes i will be bracing the front of the transaxle, I've got a friend that is making a 10mm thick 90 degree piece that will bolt to the front of the transaxle where it would bolt to the WH chassis originally. this piece will then be braced to the chassis with the 90 degree gearbox sitting on top of this. 
yes the gearbox is 1:1 ratio. what is the input speed of the transaxle? aren't uni-drives on a 1:1 ratio with the engine? I've got to start looking at pulleys now.
thanks all,
Callum 

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The old unidrives were 1:2 engine:transmission  i believe.

Havent checked the latest pulley sizes out yet, but a little research on here will do it. Not 1:1 from engine to transaxle though. (although, you can make it whatever you want depending on how fast you want to go!)

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The later model 8 speeds had a 4" engine pulley and a 6 1/4" transmission pulley.

1.56:1 looks about right.

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thank you very much, i want to keep the speed as close to standard as possible, i will be using taper lock pulleys so it won't be a problem if i find it too slow or fast. mine is one of the older transaxles i reckon. i'll measure the pulley tomorrow. :) 
thanks again,
callum

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Hey how is the progress coming along?  I'm curious to see how this build is turning out?

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sorry for the lack of updates recently, waiting for the 90 degree box slowed things down a bit. 
i got a fabrication company to make up a bracket which bolts to the tranny and is braced on the chassis ( i didn't fancy cutting a lot of 10mm thick plate with an angle grinder!) that is ready for collection then i can drill the holes and get that mounted in. i can then order the taper lock pulleys and belts. 
so progress is slow but all in the right direction, i'll do a video once I've got the bracket, i'll be picking it up on monday. 
thanks for your interest,
callum

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woulnd't it be easier to fit a horizontal shaft engine on the frame? instead of faffing around with the belts? oh and how's that hub doing?

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That looks good Callum!! doing a good job for sure. 

james

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woulnd't it be easier to fit a horizontal shaft engine on the frame? instead of faffing around with the belts? oh and how's that hub doing?

there's no faffing around now, I've changed my plans and am now using a 90 degree gearbox, i might even use a chain from the gearbox to the transaxle. the hub isn't on yet! i've to the axle stands of the shafts so its really stable. 

callum

That looks good Callum!! doing a good job for sure. 

james

thanks james, I'm picking up the bracket part on monday so the should be an update then! 
callum

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finally an update with pictures! 
so i got the bracket and drilled the holes to mount it to the front of the tranny, this was harder than it first seemed as the i couldn't mark out the holes by wiggling a pen from the other side like i would usually do. so i thought i could measure and mark out but there is so much to go wrong! haha. in the end i found a bolt that fitted the threaded holes, stuck it in the lathe, turned a point and ground to flats on it. it turned out the bolt was grade 8 so it was pretty hard. the idea behind this home made tool is that i can thread it into the hole, get the bracket where i want it and hit it with a hammer. the point on the threaded point acts like a centre punch which i can then drill the hole and move onto the next on. 

here is the tool in action, needle nose pliers are used to remove and install it, a proper tool can be made using rod and slotting the end

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then drilling the holes 

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this is what the assembly now looks like, pretty heavy now!

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and in the tractor

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i haven't drilled the holes for the 90 degree gearbox yet as i haven't got the pulleys yet, this will determine where the gearbox is mounted. 

thanks for looking and i hope you have enjoyed this update. now, I'm off to buy some pulleys 

Callum 

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Wow that does look cool but it also looks very heavy duty and heavy, should just about do the job ha ha ;) 

james

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Is that an oil filled gear box? Dont forget to leave a way to change the oil without tearing down your tractor to the rails! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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yes it is oil filled, but don't worry, the filler and drain plug are easy to get to. even if they weren't i would only have to undo 4 bolts to get it off and take of the two belts ( or belt and chain not decided yet) thanks for bringing that up though! all to easy to forget haha.

thanks for the kind works james!
 

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I'm not sure where this is going to end up but I'm enjoying the ride.  Pretty impressive steps for a young fellow!

Dennis Thornton

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thank you for the kind words, this is my first major customisation project and i have to say i am very much learning as i go. making that tool yesterday was really quite fun, having  a lathe is very useful!
the project is nearly drivable again! one I've fitted the sprockets and pulleys I've just got to measure the drive belt length and possibly make some tabs to ensure proper clutching then i should be good to go. I've also got to finish the hitch lift system and tranny bracing. 
more updates to follow,
callum  

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There almost needs to be a kit like this to buy to allow one to use a vertical shaft engine with a horizontal shaft driven transmission. I cannot tell you how many times I've come across vertical shaft engines for next to nothing. Good work. Keep the pictures coming!

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hi all,
while I'm getting my stuff together for the transaxle i am starting work on the front hub modification, the trip rib tyres came today they are size 4.00x8. 
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I also wrapped the exhaust, I used fibreglass wrap so i was all itchy after! :)

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thanks for looking,
callum

Nice Ribbed Tires, where did you get them and what was the approx. cost ($).  Txs

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Hi,
the tyres are made by Duro, on the invoice they are called "400-8 4PR Duro HF257 Three Rib Implement" they cost me £18.99 ( $29.67) each and total of £51.58 ($80.59) including VAT and postage from an online UK shop called Tyre-Rite. I'm not sure if they ship internationally but I'm sure using the part code and name you can get a local tyre shop to get them in. 
thanks,
callum 

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