glgrumpy 35 #1 Posted July 8, 2014 Have C-175, with twin blown up and removed. Had the floating mount plate. I'm trying to put in a 14hp out of a GT14, bolted to frame, w/out the plate. Much like smaller horse of same vintage would have been done. First part is the GT14 had wider frame, so doesn't have the special pan with bolt holes from underneath to bolt to one side of angle iron frame. the shrould side bolts up fine, the belt seems in right place to drive trans. Engine mount holes hang over the angle on output side. SO, wondering if J-bolts would work to mount that side? I had some smaller ones around to try, and looks like it would work just right. I would get 3/8" ones for the engine. Might be some scared I would tighten too much and snap off the foot on the pan? What think? Another issue might be the manual pto clutch. Seems the mount pan I took off was the lower pivot for the clutch arc. Thinking I can mount the bolt on pivot that most C series used on frame. Was told the arc part would not be long enough to reach down to it then. I think I can lengthen it OK to work. OR, will be looking for one off a C series if that doesn't work. What think? I need that lower pivot if anyone has one to sell then?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glgrumpy 35 #2 Posted July 10, 2014 Transplant done and running and driving some. Had to wire it today and make choke and throttle cables, and little items. I used J-bolts to mount engine on one side. Everything else just lined up and worked fine. Gonna be for the "Wife" and be Metallic Blue...ew! I like the Red myself. Want to keep the black-hood or maybe Grey or Silver with wheels the same for accent??? Want to know how to hold battery in? Batt tray had stops and I see some holes for maybe J-hooks towards front, but terminals would be in way for a crossbar there. Thinking maybe one of those reversed term batts and would keep terms in farther, by the dash and then would have room for bar or maybe an angle that pushes back and down at same time? Not sure what C-125 and similar had for battery mount? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #3 Posted July 10, 2014 Nice job! The batteries in my C161 and C111 are both reversed with the terminals at the back and the hold downs are j-hooks into a strap across the top of battery forward of the fill caps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 19,553 #4 Posted July 10, 2014 I thought there was also a small plastic tray that the battery sat in... ...I'm at work so I can jog out to the garage to check my Black Hood. Mike.............. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #5 Posted July 10, 2014 I thought there was also a small plastic tray that the battery sat in... ...I'm at work so I can jog out to the garage to check my Black Hood. Mike.............. You're right, should have a plastic battery tray with a drain hose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glgrumpy 35 #6 Posted July 10, 2014 OK, so where does one get the tray? if ever? Think I will be buying that reverse term batt and might try small angle iron along front edge like I have seen on some. Have to get batt first and see what clearance it has for top bar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 500 #7 Posted July 10, 2014 Mine has never had the battery hold down bars and I just use a bungee strap. But I do have the plastic tray, I think the trays were used on most tractors up to the end of production, finding a used one should not be too hard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #8 Posted July 10, 2014 When I do need/want batt hold downs I just use 1/4" all thread and bend to suit - usually in a "J" shape then something for a strap from the scrap box, but like Sousa said most often just a bungee serves well enough. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Catmanii 36 #9 Posted July 10, 2014 My C-175 also has the cabels on the reverse side. The hold down is just a flat strip of metal and J bolts. No plastic pan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #10 Posted July 10, 2014 No one commented but the oil pan should have a set of holes in the bottom to bolt through the frame into it. The j bolts work fine also. On the battery one of mine has a rod with 1/4 washers welded on the ends across the middle of the battery with J bolts on either end. Cheaper than a new battery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #11 Posted July 11, 2014 As glgrumpy mentioned in his original post, the GT-14 pan does not have the tapped holes for a "narrow frame" tractor. "J" bolts are necessary in this application. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joel_400 59 #12 Posted July 11, 2014 The j bolts work but you can drill and tap them into the pan. Theres plenty of meat to do so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #13 Posted July 12, 2014 In my experience, drilling and tapping cast iron successfully can be a challenge. "J" bolts alleviate the problem completely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #14 Posted July 12, 2014 ? The GT14 I parted had the WH pan with the threaded holes in the bottom. So I assumed they all did. My bad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #15 Posted July 12, 2014 I am not sure that the blackhoods use the same battery tray as the 500 series, but that 500 series tray is about $10 from your Toro dealer. I have seen used ones sell for more than that on Ebay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
