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gulftane

D200 Resto ... Florida style!!!!

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FANTASTIC weather here, cool and dry.  Garage down to 85 today, 78 outside!!!

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So ... wiring under construction ... about 4 hours so far, well, actually about 3, since one was spent sitting on the floor, picking up about 200 of the 300 or so pieces in my terminal box!!!  

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Dumb ass ... oh well ... it's nice and neat now, and I found a couple pieces I didn't know I had!!

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Switched to a side terminal style battery, so I made an aluminum battery box with a "lid" that holds the fuse block and relays.  So far so good, another day or so and the wiring will be pretty well "hooked up"!!

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Those terminal kits have a mind of there own.

That's happened to me a couple time a least.

Keep up the great work and updates!

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Looks great so far. Question though, did you make that gas tank or was yours aluminum from the factory? I need one and was wondering how much if you had it made. Keep plugging along.

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Custom ... I have about $400 in it, with the tank, and welded bungs for filler, vent and feed  line, then a drop in gauge kit, and mounting.  You might get one cheaper if you go smaller, use a vented cap instead of a billet cap with separate vent.  This is 10 gal.

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Hey guys, I need a hand!!!

 

The voltage regulator / rectifyer .... has 3 terminals on it ... B+  AC  AC  

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The parts list wiring diagram shows one wire to the VR from the ignition switch, and two from the engine.  There are two leads coming from the alternator on the engine, with the 1/4" spade terminals like they go on the VR.

 

Is it that the wire from the ignition switch goes on the B+ terminal and the alternator wires  go on the other two?????

 

 

Got my "electrical" panel finished up, just waiting for fancy loom and ties.

 

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If im not mistaken, the alternator wires go to the ac terminals and the 12v from the ignition switch goes to the B+ like you say. On the wiring diagram from the manual it shows it coming from the "R" terminal on the ignition switch. I like that panel. Its looking nice Bob.

Edited by 19richie66

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Thanks Richie .... I didn't know where to mount that crap, so I went with a side post battery, and made this "lid" that goes over it.  I think it will work. Have to head over to the truck chrome shop at Wildwood and get some chrome wire loom to dress it up!!  LOL

 

Busted a head bolt today so I also have that adventure to go on!!  There's a little stub sticking up so I'm gonna weld a nut on it and see if that works ... after a few days of PB Blaster soaking!!

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Sweet job on that electrical panel  :handgestures-thumbsup:

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Here's a different view of the battery box, with the "lid".  Lots of work to do cleaning it up, but just started!!   Thought I had all the pieces in place, but decided to increase wire size to the roof, which will have stereo, amp, and lights,  plus going to add electro-magnets for hood hold downs and need a relay service for that so still a little tinkerin do do.

Anyway, the lid just lifts up, and battery sits inside, with terminals facing the steering column.  Yea, it fits, but it's snug!  LOL

 

Headed to chop shop tomorrow, carpul tunnel surg on my left hand, so I think I'll be relaxin for a few days!!

 

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What a great thread! I enjoyed the background story and all the old pics to start off. I also enjoy the technical information and all the restoration detail pics.

Good luck on your surgery too!

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So a few guys asked about the battery box ....  This shows the empty box, bolted to the original mounting brackets.

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It takes a group 25 side terminal battery, much larger than the tractor battery called for, but this unit has a winch, which needs a bit more juice than the small cells in the tractor batt can muster.

 

The top has enough wire to be easily removed and moved aside to service the battery.

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The body panels are ready for paint, but the weather is being a tad angry, so we will give it a few days.  4 stage paint, so it's a little testy on the flash times.

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Here's a pic of the very front, showing a reese receiver which will hold the winch, same setup in the rear, so winch can be moved to either end. m Electric plugs (heavy trolling motor plugs) will be mounted so I can just plug and play ... I mean winch!!  I made a little dolly out of a 2x8 and 4 casters, then stacked some more 2x8's on top, and strapped it all together, now I can roll it around.  Same setup under rear axle.

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The dash is almost done, waiting on labels, but ready to mount, park light / headlights, cooling fan, winch power, hour meter, and power outlets, reg socket and two USB power outlets for phone chargers.

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The hand deal came out ok, I guess, juice is starting to wear off, so sleep tonight may be Tylenol induced!!  LOL

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Best to rest that hand...

that ol'  :wh: will wait for you. 

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Glad to hear the hand came out ok. You are just lucky they cut on the correct hand, lol.Take care of it. Tractor looks great.

Edited by 19richie66

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I forgot one pic, the cutest little fuel filter ever!!  I switched to an electric fuel pump back under the tank, ran regular line inside the frame up to a bulkhead fitting on the side panel ... then SS to the filter, and SS on the the engine, whenever I get that done!!  LOL

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YIPPEE!!!!   Today was sheet metal paint day!!

 

Used BASF products, 4 stage, well, 5 if you include primer, but 4 in the finish layer!!

 

First we applied 2 coats of white base ...

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Then in the second stage comes the cool stuff ... 2 coats of Arctic Ice White ... this is where we make everything look like we were at a strip club!!  LOL

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It's really hard to see in the photo ...

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These were all done with 10 min flash time between coats ....

Now the first coat of Candy Apple Red ...

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Looks good, but way too "pink"!! ... so ... the second coat ...

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Now we're talkin' ... but still not there!!!  Try coat number 3 ...  then add 4 coats of clear ... AND.....

 

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WOW .. that's sharp!!  Let dry till Monday AM, wet sand and buff, then start boltin' together!!  FINALLY!!

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Wow,wow,wow that looks amazing you have really outdone yourself! :)

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That's incredible!! As this whole build has been. I'm probably as anxious as you are to see things bolted together. :handgestures-thumbsup:

Edited by Racinbob

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Makin pretty good progress these days ... weather has been typical fall here, 80's daytime and 50's at nite ... which makes working a pleasure!!  Had a real chore getting ready for this ... since they pump was completely drained, and the new hoses are dry also, I had to figure a way to semi-prime the system.  I filled the transaxle, then made a "fill tub" of sorts, and plumbed it to the sending unit fitting on the pump.  I put a quart of oil in the tub, and used a pair of vice grips to spin the pump.  Rotating it the same way as it runs sucked all the oil into the pump!!  Sweet.  The spec capacity is 6 qts with the factory manifold, but my hoses have to add at least a half a quart, so it has 6 in it now, will see what happens.

Once the pump was juiced, I could start piling all the stuff on top of it!!!   The fun stuff!!

Sorry for the crap pic, cell phone ... will use real camera tomorrow!

 

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No doubt that you hang out at "The I-75 Chrome Shop". Looking good! Love the color.

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Hey gang ... first of all, thanks for the flowers!!!

 

I ran into a bit of a snag.  I have a fairly decent set of tools, but I have NOTHING to remove the valve seat in the carb base.  How in the world do you get those out???  Is there a special tool??  None of my wrenches will fit down in there, and a socket will not fit between the fitting and the side of the carb.   HELP!!!

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Getting some pretty juice on the engine, no sparkles here, just black!!  LOL  I know ... boring, right!

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I found that most 1/4 inch sockets work great and fit right in there. Using that small of a ratchet limits your chances of over torquing the seat in the carb. Looks great by the way. Very creative!

Edited by Theroundhousernr

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Thanks guys ... I have a box of extra sockets, I'll do some grinding tomorrow!!!

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