Points plunger question

[Wishin4a416 2,188]

  The Kohler rebuild kit that I got from ebay says it is mandatory to replace the aluminum plunger with the steel one.

Does anyone know why this is?

[rmaynard 14,898]

The aluminum one wears too quickly and changes the gap.

[Wishin4a416 2,188]

Thanks Bob!!

[Fordiesel69 214]

I personally would not replace it.  The cam lobe cam wear more.

 

If you do annual maint, which is very important, there is no problem making a .001-.003 adjustment to the points.  I know this sucks, but it is better than wearing out the cam.

 

Lastly, any aftermarket points that are missing the words Echlin, or Kohler, and absolute trash.  Toss them out.  Also the Chinese no name spark plugs that come in the kit are also trash.   

[shorts 182]

I agree, the steel pushrod will wear away the cam faster to the demise of an engine that won't wear out fast enough to require replacement with a new engine. if you continue to use the aluminum pushrod you will need toreadjust or at least check the points on an annual basis.

[buckrancher 2,675]

I will not use the steel point push rods in any of the motors I rebuild

 

Brian

[SousaKerry 500]

Ok so has anyone ever made one from bronze and tried it?

[buckrancher 2,675]

if the alum push rods wear out so fast how come sixty year old motors are still running good with the original one in them

change your oil once a year with a good grade 30wt and yours will last that long too

 

 

Brian

[oldlineman 1,450]

I have a 1979 c-101-8 and a 1989 414-8 never had to adjust the points on ether one. 414 has 950 hours the c-101 how knows guessing 2000 plus change the oil and no troubles.Never had the heads off of ether engine.They just need some regular maintenance.  

[rmaynard 14,898]

...change your oil once a year with a good grade 30wt and yours will last that long too

 

Brian

I guess the same thing could be said for the steel ones too.

[oaktown1987 82]

In ill 30wt getting hard to find

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[rmaynard 14,898]

In ill 30wt getting hard to find

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Straight 30W is available at Walmart, NAPA auto parts, and Advance auto parts if you have any of those stores. Briggs & Stratton still packages 30W in 2 qt. bottles and sells it at most TSC stores, and all John Deere dealers have it on their shelves in the famous green and yellow bottles.

[oaktown1987 82]

Only sae 30 wal mart carries is super tech. Won't run that that the auto parts stores don't have sae weight napa has napa brand sae 30 which is valvoline but finally they have penzoil

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I ain't using briggs oil tsc has castrol in sae 30 which is 30 miles away don't get over too much

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John Deere which I use work at the sae 30 is for diesel

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[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,499]

Many of the 30 weight oils I see now are thought to be a diesel oil. If you read the fine print on the bottle you will see it covers two types of older engines.

 

CC, CE or CD etc. The first letter C is for Compression ignition engines meaning diesel.

 

SC, SE or SD etc. The first letter S is for Spark ignition engines meaning gasoline. (Today's latest gasoline multigrade is up to about class SM or SN)

 

Garry

[gwgdog66 23]

Have any of you had one warp and get stuck? The stuck plunger broke when we were trying to pull it out to replace it. It's the aluminum plunger. Has anyone been successful drilling the old one out?

[Coadster32 793]

I guess the same thing could be said for the steel ones too.

 

I see a pattern here..normal maintenance being way more important than the pushrod material.

 

Maybe the points gap stays correct for longer periods of time with a metal pushrod, at the chance of messing up the lobe. However...when the aluminum one does wear out, where does the aluminum go? Some of it comes out in the oil during changes yes, but prob. not all of it. (Should check gap once a year anyhow).

[Coadster32 793]

Many of the 30 weight oils I see now are thought to be a diesel oil. If you read the fine print on the bottle you will see it covers two types of older engines.

 

CC, CE or CD etc. The first letter C is for Compression ignition engines meaning diesel.

 

SC, SE or SD etc. The first letter S is for Spark ignition engines meaning gasoline. (Today's latest gasoline multigrade is up to about class SM or SN)

 

Garry

 

Didn't know that. Pretty cool.  I'd assume the second letter is grade quality? N being better than M.

[buckrancher 2,675]

pennsoil  SAE30  at TSC

[specialwheelhorse 174]

Have used in a pinch hardened steel dowel pin of proper length

And polishing cam end slightly rounded and polished like a mirror.

Can't even remember what engine it was in.

Remember like materials wear and weld very easy.

Unlikes usually do well in a wear situation.

[520HC 207]

Just a thought, Kohler has 30wt oil also.

[DrabHorse 1]

I know this isnt an oil topic, but I wanted to add that Shell Rotella T1 30W is a good choice also.  I have bought it at walmart, although it will be on sale sometimes at the auto stores.  It may not be stocked at all walmarts, my local dosen't have it, but the next closest one does.

Edited August 13, 2014 by DrabHorse

[zanepetty 117]

So if the push rod gets a little short you can't readjust the points to compensate?

Edited January 30, 2015 by zanepetty

[Wishin4a416 2,188]

Wow, my old thread. I put the original rod back in. And I use 30 Wt. Rotella from TSC. And yes Zane.

[zanepetty 117]

Ohkay thanks. Just wondering if that would make the points gap too short. ðŸ‘

[buckrancher 2,675]

Ohkay thanks. Just wondering if that would make the points gap too short.

NO it just means the screwdriver blade may not fit in the point gap adjustment slot on the ponits

 

Brian