Hood Pivot Points

[MalMac 1,328]

On my 94 314-8 I noticed the hood really vibrating and getting nosier. I checked it for not fitting tight and found the pivot points to be sloppy at the time I did not do anything about it, When I did check the pivot points I was astounded to find that everything is wollered out down there. I got a new pivot rod and drilled the brackets out and put in brass bushings but was still not satisfied with the amount of slop. Upon closer inspection it looks like even the tack o matic where the rod goes through even has some slop. Just wondering what other members have done to correct this. Tractor has less then 400 hrs on it and it amazes me how wollered out it is.

[doc724 924]

When I had my 96 314-8, I noticed the same thing, but it had close to 800 hours on it.  I replaced the nylon bushings (the ones you replaced with brass) and I was satisfied, but I admit that I did not explore further.  Curious, I do not have this problem on my 78 C141-8.  However, that set-up has the shaker plate with vibration dampers under the engine.  They were done away with in later models.  It is possible that the 314-8, which is directly mounted to the frame, has a resonant (vibration) frequency that results in larger than expected motion at the hinge points.  It would be interesting to see what other members have to say.  I have two more 314's sitting in the shed.

[cleat 4,984]

I redrilled to the next larger size and made up a new rod to fit.

 

Cleat

[Anglo Traction 759]

Had to check the Gallery to  ensure yours is similar to my 74 layout.

I also Flange Bushed my Hinges and enlarged the Hinge Pin receiver holes in the Tach a Matic.  Used a section of thin wall brass tube to make bushes (3/8" id x 13/32" od) and pressed them in. Gives great ground connection for lights and just replace the bushes when worn.

Although I'm in UK, the Brass tube I used is produced in US for Modellers. Should find it in Craft, Model Suppliers or Hardware Stores.   (ignore the colour, it is red really)  

 

 

 

[sorekiwi 761]

I think what happens is that the nylon bushings wear out, and then the metal on metal vibration wallows out both the holes in the sheetmetal and puts grooves in the pin.

 

Its easier to fix on the later models because you can put in oversize bushes in the hood and replace the pin.  Earlier tractors take more work to fix the pin:

 

 

On my 1276 I welded in a steel bush in both the frame and the hinge panel.  Its steel on steel, but each bush is about 1/4" thick so there is a lot of bearing surface there so the vibration doesn't wear a groove in the pin.

[SousaKerry 500]

Another thing I foind that helps is to put some safety trim around the edge of the hood where the latches hold it down works really well on the black hoods.

[jackhammer 544]

I'm beginning to think this might be a pretty common problem on these, I have a 90  312-8 many hours , this is my worker and the hood on it has tons of play  wobble , especially on the left side.   I never paid any attention to this prior but your ideas here and fixes give plenty of room for thought. Thanks

[Don1977 604]

My C-120 has rubber bumpers under the bottom of front hood that set on the frame when closed to keep it tight. I looked at the drawings of the 312 and did not see any. Some type of rubber glued to the frame would stop it from moving and wearing the hinge. I had to replace the ones on my tractor as they were falling apart.

[can whlvr 991]

ive had to make new hood brackets because they were so worn out,just found similar size angle iron and went from there

[Tankman 3,515]

Another thing I foind that helps is to put some safety trim around the edge of the hood where the latches hold it down works really well on the black hoods.

Safety trim sounds great. I used some fuel line which I split on the center line.

[MalMac 1,328]

A lot of great ideas, I have already got new bushings in the brackets just need to bush the pin. You would have thought they would have come up with something better than a cheap plastic insert. None of my older C's have had any problems.

[doc724 924]

Tankman, that is a great idea and I just happen to have an extra length of fuel line hanging about.

[MalMac 1,328]

I have used the fuel line for a long time. Works good but the heat dries it out then you have to just put some new on. I have also used rubber air hose.

[608KEB 794]

My C-100 has the brackets for the rubber bumpers. The B-80 and B-100 do not

[Ed Kennell 35,786]

My C's all have the rubber bumpers.  They were all dry rotted and I replaced them with a flanged rubber insert from ACE hardware. The flanged part is a lot thicker than the original bushing and really takes all the vibration out of the hood.  May be these brackets and bumpers could be added to a 314. 

[posifour11 723]

My C's all have the rubber bumpers. They were all dry rotted and I replaced them with a flanged rubber insert from ACE hardware. The flanged part is a lot thicker than the original bushing and really takes all the vibration out of the hood. May be these brackets and bumpers could be added to a 314.

Do you have pictures of this rubber insert?

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Another thing I foind that helps is to put some safety trim around the edge of the hood where the latches hold it down works really well on the black hoods.

 

I'm doing this too on all of mine, and boy does it ever help! It works best on the hood itself for the blackhood series, but for 300 and 400 series tractors put it on the top of the dash board or dash tower (whatever you call it) where the hood closes down on that part of the tractor. Both Wheel Horse and TORO put a little 3 or 4 in piece of cheap stuff there but it was not enough length nor was it heavy duty enough to keep the vibration down.

Edited February 15, 2014 by Wheel-N-It

[Ed Kennell 35,786]

Do you have pictures of this rubber insert?

Here  Ya go.    They are called " rubber well nuts".....$1.95 ea. at ACE .   The one I use has a 1/2" dia on the small end. This just fits in the hole in the bracket, and there is plenty of length to put 1/2" spacer washers  on first to create as much tension as  you want on the hood.

 

   I use a 1/4-20 stove bolt to keep it from falling out when the hood is opened.        

 

                           One in place with a spacer washer.