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RJMcEachern

518-H won't start, starter just clicks, battery appears to be fully charged

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Power still goes through a relay from switch to starter though....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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What are you checking voltage with? a Test light or a voltmeter? A test light has a 9 volt bulb in it so that means 7 volts will light it up pretty good. That's not enough to run the starter. Judging from your pics you have a lot of compromised connections which would cause your exact problem. You need to check the actual voltage getting to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter.

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Thanks everyone for the responses, I did check using a DVOM and the exact number was 12.48v. I have the same conclusions as most of the connections in that area look to be redone if you will, they do look like they are factory original, not that I would know what factory original looks like :)

 

I did not get to cleaning the connections after work last night so hope to get to it first thing today...

 

RJMcEachern

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12.4 with the key on or in the start position?  If it drops more than a couple of  volts with the key on you have bad connections for sure

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12.4 with key on, using the far post on starter relay solenoid, using the DVOM with key on no voltage to near post, with key in start position, no voltage to near post, near post has the blue wire that goes to starter solenoid small connection, this is referencing the second picture in my post

 

 

solenoidpic_zps33c9da86.jpg

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hate to sound like a broken record here, but have you checked for any bad terminals or connections yet.?

that terminal is a fairly secure one but you have a bunch of smaller ones that need to be good to complete the electrical circuit when cranking.......

the post you tested should have battery voltage all the time as it is a direct connection to the battery. the problem you have been describing is failure to turn over the starter when key is turned to start. you need to follow the electrical path from the fuse supplying power for the start circuit all the way to the solenoid terminal that should be hot when cranking.

im not sure what year you have but heres a wiring diagram giving you the start circuit.......

 

post-4321-0-31558600-1391865789_thumb.pn

 

 

run through each wire and check for continuity and visually make sure that they all look good with no corrosion or loose connections. these models are notorious for having burnt or corroded terminals and or connectors. testing voltage is fine but if you have an intermittent connection and don't wobble it while testing, one time it will be ok and the next you have nothing.......

 

process of elimination here......

 

 

 

 

 

 

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as posted earlier

 

 

I did not get to cleaning the connections after work last night so hope to get to it first thing today...

 

I will get out here in a few and do that next, I had hoped to get to it after work last night but that did not happen   :(

 

RJMcEachern

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Looking at that pic I see the terminal for the wire from the key just hanging there all rusted with no wire there. or is that my imagination. That's the terminal you need to test with the key to start.

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if your referring to them white wire on the left of the pic, it is a fabric type insulator sheath on the wire, it goes to a male type spade connector on the left top most corner of the starter relay solenoid that is pictured, I will add that check, it is snowing now and has not stopped yet so I am waiting on that to stop.

 

RJMcEachern

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Hi RJ- when you get time to check out , something else to think about that I noticed from your pics is... on the relay solenoid the top post is discolored, that is from getting hot

Same thing on the Batt post on the starter, this could be an issue as well & creating a compound problem. The cables should be removed & cleaned. I see your plate is full, but just some more food for thought :eusa-think:

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Mine did this and the battery was dead so we needed a new one worked perfectly afterwards

James

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so I went out this evening after work and disconnected the battery, working one connection at a time I disconnected the connection, cleaned it with either a wire brush or emery cloth, rubbed dielectric grease on it and reconnected. I also ohm check for continuity on each wire using the DVOM, all wires had continuity. I did this on the starter relay solenoid and on the starter solenoid, I also checked and cleaned battery ground on the frame, and the connections at the ignition switch. after wards I came in and had a beer then went back out and it started!

 

I swear it started faster, ran better and stronger (more power). I then left it outside in the freezing cold intentionally, it has always been very hard to start when left out in the cold overnight, and it started immediately. It would usually turn over real slow and finally "catch" and fire, this time it just turned over like it had never cooled off. I did wait about an hour for it to cool off in -2 degree ambient temperature.

 

I can't thank everyone enough for thier patience and help with this issue, electrical is not my strong suit and I muddle through, if it wasn't for the assistance of you folks I would still be starting my Wheel Horse with a screwdriver.

 

Thanks,

 

RJMcEachern

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.Sounds like you got it.

Edited by WH nut

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Glad you got it sorted. the best part of all of this is it didn't cost you a cent, just some time.......

another thing to watch out for is a clean engine and hydro on these tractors, especially the air flow path. i noticed in some of your pics that the engine plate was covered in grime and debris. not seeing if the engine, hydro and rest of the area is the same i can't tell whether you need to take care of it or not but again, nothing but some time and no cost to you......

keeping these machines clean and tidy keeps them running at their best!

 

solenoidpic_zps33c9da86.jpg

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yea, the cooling fins are clean, the debris and slight oil mix are a combination from oil changes, i am going to pressure wash it this sprint and use some simple green to clean some of this off...

 

started again with no issues   :)

 

 

RJMcEachern

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thats great that its starting well....

 

gives you a good feeling to conquer an issue, doesn't it?

 

its amazing how well these tractors run when everything is working how it should. its good that the engine is clean as its one of the down falls of them, cooling issues.......

 

same goes with the hydro, i always make a point of using compressed air every few mowings to blow out all the crap from around the engine and hydro. sometimes removing the seat pan is necessary to get it all out from the rear end, its amazing how crap can get jammed in there.......

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:greetings-clappingyellow: LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER :happy-jumpeveryone:

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it is a great feeling  :)

 

now I find myself going out every couple of hours and starting it to see if it stills works  :laughing-rofl:

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Specialty forums are such a gift. The first significant snow is predicted and my 518H is little balky in the starting department. I replaced the battery this summer. When I turn the key it just clicks but after some messing around it will turn over and fire off just fine. I need to go through the wiring. I am guessing that a couple hours would yield similar results. 

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