Battery Problem

[genehorse 1]

I have put 2 new batteries in my C-160 Automatic and each of them eventually will not start the tractor. When I disconnect the battery and put it on charge, it will not take a charge. Will be going for battery #3 tomorrow, but hesitate because it will most likely follow the first two and run down and then not take a charge.

[chazm 412]

WELCOME TO !!!!

I would start by checking the battery & wiring  for bad/ corroded connections.       Next check the charging system output. Here's a good post on battery maintenance

 

[Lane Ranger 10,495]

Sometimes the Lawn and Garden  batteries bought new are not good now.    However, you do need to check your tractors electrical system to see if it is charging and producing 12 volts at all the right places!

[genehorse 1]

I am aware that there are low quality L&G batteries out there. That is why I went to NAPA and got this $98.00 battery which I feel should be very good at that price. Thanks for the advice all who replied.

[genehorse 1]

Sometimes the Lawn and Garden  batteries bought new are not good now.    However, you do need to check your tractors electrical system to see if it is charging and producing 12 volts at all the right places!

I know nothing about testing to see if it is producing 12 volts at all the right places. Do I buy a 12 volt tester and how costly are they and how is it used?

[sorekiwi 761]

Just a simple volt meter across the battery connections will tell you if the tractor is charging.  Take a reading with the engine off, and another with the tractor running at a reasonable speed - half throttle or so.

 

If the reading with the engine running is higher than the reading you took with the engine off, then your charging system is working.

 

Assuming that the battery is good, and your charging system is working correctly then I would look for some sort of drain on the battery when it is not being used.

 

Let us know if the battery is charging and we can take it from there.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

 

Sometimes the Lawn and Garden  batteries bought new are not good now.    However, you do need to check your tractors electrical system to see if it is charging and producing 12 volts at all the right places!

I know nothing about testing to see if it is producing 12 volts at all the right places. Do I buy a 12 volt tester and how costly are they and how is it used?

 

Multimeter testers are available from several sources, Radio Shack, Sears, Lowes, Home depot, etc. A meter in the $15 to $30 range should be all you need to perform any work on the tractor charge system.

 

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Manual-Ranging-Multimeter-MM100/202565780#

 

 

 

Check this out for a beginning on charge system test theory.

 

[genehorse 1]

Sorekiwi:

I cannot buy a simple volt meter. Auto stores want to sell me a Multimeter which seems to me more than I need to pinpoint my C-160 battery/charge  problem. I can purchase an Advanced Auto Center Continuity tester that they say will test the 12 volt system and charging system for me. It costs the same as the Multimeter, about $25.00. Does this sound like the way to go for me with the Continuity tester? 

[sorekiwi 761]

I don't know exactly what an "advanced Auto Center Continuity Tester" is. 

 

A multimeter is what I was referring to in my post, when in voltage mode it will act as a volt meter.  In other modes it will enable you to troubleshoot the system, and pin point the problem.  For instance, if the volt meter reading confirms that the charging system is not working, you will need the other functions of the multi-meter to try and work out which component has failed.

 

I'd take note of Chucks (Save old Iron) recommendations for a meter.  He has the gift of being smart enough to know whats going on plus the ability to explain it to the rest of us. 

 

If you are going to use and maintain a 40 year old tractor, you are going to need to own and know how to use a multi-meter.  You will need it reasonably often.

 

 

 

 

 

[genehorse 1]

Thank you very much. Advance Auto is an automobile parts chain in the East similar to NAPA. I believe your advice and that of Save Old Iron is well taken. I have a fleet of these beasts - not WH, but with electrical systems and batteries, and probably should have owned and learned how to use a Multimeter about 50 years ago. I shall purchase one tomorrow and go on from there. The help of you two gentlemen is deeply appreciated. My "Horse" thanks you too.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Sorekiwi:

I cannot buy a simple volt meter. Auto stores want to sell me a Multimeter which seems to me more than I need to pinpoint my C-160 battery/charge  problem.

 

 

Gene, multi function meters are the standard. It's like someone in Florida trying to buy a car without a heater because they don't need it. The logic is there but that's not the way the product is made.

 

Even the $1.99 Harbor Freight coupon meters have more functions than the average person will need. Diode checks, transistor checker, etc. Feature rich but short on construction quality that allow the meter to last more than a few years in service.

 

Your auto parts store is not trying to steer you wrong in purchasing a "multimeter". That's all they have!

[dbartlett1958 96]

Sorekiwi:

I cannot buy a simple volt meter. Auto stores want to sell me a Multimeter which seems to me more than I need to pinpoint my C-160 battery/charge  problem. I can purchase an Advanced Auto Center Continuity tester that they say will test the 12 volt system and charging system for me. It costs the same as the Multimeter, about $25.00. Does this sound like the way to go for me with the Continuity tester? 

Genehorse,

 

I bought a Fluke Multi-meter in 1991 for around $45.  I have used it ever since for household, automotive and anything else related to electricity. I would not hesitate to spend the money again.  That being said, I was also in Harbor Freight recently and got a free Multi-Meter with an in-store coupon. It even came with a battery!

Edited January 16, 2014 by dbartlett1958

[genehorse 1]

Thank you Mr. Bartlett. All this prompts me to purchase a multimeter today.

[ARK 9]

Genehorse, since you have a group of tractors, besides a multi-meter, a battery hydrometer tester about $10 and a terminal wire brush that fits over round battery terminals along with contact cleaner are a few things that might be a must have.

 

Learn how to use that meter.  Voltage, Resistance Ohms, and amps are different elements of electricity.  They are all intertwined and knowing the relationships can help you a whole lot.  Learn the basic relationship of Ohm's Law and of all its forms.

 

Have fun!

[genehorse 1]

OK gang, I have the multimeter - a cheapy from Sears because all I want to do is test L&G batteries and the 12 volt wiring on my Wheel Horse. I have read the booklet but it's not clear to me what line I should read on the analog multimeter as I hold the leads on the posts of the battery, with it set at 50 VDC. Also, what the good battery range is?

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

a fully charged battery = 12.6 volts without the engine running

 

with the engine running battery voltage should be between 13.8 to 14.5 volts

 

a healthy battery will measure above 9 volts while the engine is cranking

 

a functionally dead battery will measure less than 10 volts when not being charged

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

which model multimeter?

 

so we can give you some advice on how to make other measurements if needed.

[Digger 66 3,476]

I am aware that there are low quality L&G batteries out there. That is why I went to NAPA and got this $98.00 battery which I feel should be very good at that price. Thanks for the advice all who replied.

 

There's an IBS on Clay Rd. in Henrietta . I deal with them & they turnover their stock quickly .

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

what line I should read on the analog multimeter with it set at 50 VDC.

 

if you are using an analog meter with the 50 volt scale, read off the scal that shows voltages listed in increments of 10 , 20 , 30 . 40 , and 50

 

the image below shows a meter face with the proper scale shown with the 50 in a green circle. I have erased some of the scale clutter near the pointers to show you what 12.5 and 14,5 volts will look like on the 50 volt scale.

 

With an analog meter, there is always some amount of interpretation left to the user. A meter that has only a 10 volt scale then jumps to a 50 volt scale can be a little hard to read for reading voltages on a lead acid battery. A digital meter would.give you clear indications of battery voltage down to 2 decimal places. An analog meter leaves the operator guessing at the first decimal place.

 

Try the meter to see if you feel comfortable with interpreting the readings. If not, head back to Sears and exchange up to the least expensive digital they have (about $20).

I believe in the long run, you will be further ahead.

 

 

 

the same two voltage readings magnified for better view

 

 

 

 

the readings on a digital will be clear and need no interpretation

 

 

Edited January 20, 2014 by Save Old Iron