Snow Thrower Lift Tube and Flag Dimensions

23 posts in this topic

ID: 1   Posted

apparently im missing the part that runs from the bottom tube to the tractor. if anyone has pics of this part or dementions i sure would appreciate them

its getting cold here, 38 yesterday mornin. hope we dont have an early frost.

thanks again guys.

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ID: 2   Posted

This one will definitely go to the FAQ section!

This lift rod and flag are for my 1986 42" single-stage snowthrower for use on a long frame garden tractor. I have had this thrower mounted on a 1986 312A, 1990 416H, 1992 416-8, and a 1973 12 8 speed. Pre Attach-Matic tractors will need the tube length altered, as will the short and medium frame machines, but the "flag" is basically the same. This particular flag does not have the lift assist spring tab, but one could easily be added. (I use it on a 416 with hydraulic lift now, so it's not needed.)

The lift tube is 1 1/4" O.D. X 3/4" I.D. by 42" long. (raw)

The plate at the end of the tube is 3/8" X 2" strap steel, 6 1/2" long. (bent per photo at 3" from the end opposite the hole)

The tube overlaps the plate by 2 3/4" and is welded on both sides.

The centerline of the hole in the plate is roughly 44 3/4" from the end of the tube.

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The flag is constructed from one piece of 3/4" round X 11" long welded to a piece of 1/4" X 3" flat steel, 4" long. The end opposite the rod is 1 1/2" wide. (angle on front side toward tube)

There is an offset bend per photo. The first bend is 2" from rod - second bend at 3". Clevis pin is 3/8" X 3/4".

snowblowerlift002.jpg

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snowblowerlift012.jpg

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ID: 3   Posted

Terry,

I saved a copy of the last picture of the lift flag. I don't know how many times each year someone on the Yahoo WH group wants to know what a lift flag is <_<

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ID: 4   Posted

Yes, Micah.....

It will be a popular question again real soon! B)

BTW -- If anyone needs any other info or dimensions on these pieces, just "shout". :whistle:

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ID: 5   Posted

your a good man, TT. excellent photographs, thanks alot.

the flag is what ill be building, and hopfully ill get a few pics of the build. ill be taking the pic to the fella i bought the blower off of to show him, when i bought the blower i mentioned the attachment flag and he said he would look for it, and he also lowerd the price for it not being with the blower.

again, great pics, and nice contrasting carpenters square.

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ID: 6   Posted

My blower on my Charger 12 needed a spacer because the lift rod was not long enough. The guy I bought it from has a 312. I assume the difference is because the front mount on the Charger is an add-on.

In any case, the perfect spacer to use is one of the two spacers from the rear lift point. When a tractor has a draw bar but no lift there are two spacers.

These fit perfectly :banana: B)

My picture got deleted, when I get a chance I'll add it to this post.

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ID: 7   Posted

Here is a fuzzy picture of how well the spacers from the rear lift perfectly fit the flag. This effectively made the lift rod about an inch longer.

2790903197_7ec5f77f14.jpg :horseplay:

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ID: 8   Posted

Heavy 3/4" I.D. X 1 1/2" O.D. flat washers (P/N 920015) were actually used for lift rod shimming. That's why the flat spot is at the front of the base of the "flag".

These washers were used by WH in many locations - from front wheel spindles to blade spindles on many mower decks.

Although your use of the drawbar spacer is creative, I'm sure it would eventually crush.

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ID: 9   Posted

:D chargers and raiders are the same? So my rod will need to be longer? :ychain: Right .Or don't weld the end that slids into the pipe on the lifting side. start long and cut pipe till you get the lift right? :D tmix

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ID: 10   Posted

don't weld the end that slids into the pipe on the lifting side. start long and cut pipe till you get the lift right? :ychain: tmix

These tractors are grouped into two basic categories when it comes to the lift tube.

Wheelbase (short/medium/long) and Attach-Matic or not.

You do not want to weld the "flag" to the tube. It's hard enough to get hooked to the lift arm on the tractor without another 40-some inches of heavy pipe hanging off the end.

Mount the flag to the tractor lift arm (top hole on the arm that points down to the ground) first.

Attach the lift tube to the blower and hook the blower to the tractor. Lower the implement lift completely and then hold the lift tube up to the flag to see where (if) the tube needs cut. If you cut it a little short, flat washers slid over the rod on the flag can be used to tighten things up as needed.

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ID: 11   Posted

:D chargers and raiders are the same? So my rod will need to be longer? :ychain: Right .Or don't weld the end that slids into the pipe on the lifting side. start long and cut pipe till you get the lift right? :hide: tmix

Raiders and Charger are the same (at least I think so) but I think the last few years they may have had the built in front Tachamatic.

In 1969 and before (I know for certain) the front tachamatic is an option and bolts to the sides of the frame (unlike the newer one's that bolt on from the front). Like this:

2444614450_4fb2d7e97c.jpg

That said, I would NOT try to customize parts like the lift tube. Far better to be "standard" with the decades of later tractors. If you find it a bit loose, shim it with washers (or the heavy spacer like I used) as needed.

:D :D

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ID: 12   Posted

any one know were i can get the whole assembly for cheap not $233 or is it better to bulid it :thumbs2:

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ID: 13   Posted

thank you VERY much for the pics and specs

ordered the flag from ebay and will go and get a steel pipe from home depot

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ID: 14   Posted

and done!!

:dunno:

IMAG0405.jpg

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IMAG0404.jpg

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ID: 15   Posted

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ID: 16   Posted

There's tons of talent here but I'm not sure where we would be "Without the TT" :banana-tux:

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ID: 17   Posted

made mine at work, gonna build a few more.

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ID: 18   Posted

I just bought a 312 H WH Classic with deck and blower for $ 700 CDN .... darn good price for this area took me forever to figure out what guy did before me having it .... he must have lost the flag a while back ... so he drilled a hole in the tube and hooked it up to the mower lift rod ..... may have worked good for him being out in country with gravel driveway .... but i am in town .... so am gonna build one at work tomorrow thanks you you guys and the nice specs you have posted on here 

thanks a ton 

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ID: 19   Posted

build time 1 hour .....but did not bother putting bends as you will see i did it a little different instead of bends ... i lined flag flat with the rod 

and small piece i cut off when making flag i also welded on for extra strength i also use threaded rod so it adjustment was needed all i had to do was put on a nut

 

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ID: 20   Posted

new flag installed and working great

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ID: 21   Posted

new flag installed and working great

 Excellent! :handgestures-thumbup:

I haven't needed my thrower this season. (yet) :eusa-whistle:

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ID: 22   Posted

Good Fab work & welding skills. :handgestures-thumbupright:   You might want to weld that crack on the frame plate when it warms up 

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ID: 23   Posted (edited)

yeah i saw that when i installed the flag 

am lucky with my work place .... have all the nice tools to use ... but when i do that repair will also sand blast and paint those parts

another repair i did was for the cable for chute rotation ..... i used a piece of clothesline ... nice and flexible .... and now no frayed ends and easy to cut off

post-14719-0-41620700-1424685149_thumb.j

Edited by theWolf319

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