Jamie Darian Brown 9 #1 Posted June 3, 2013 Hi all, 1. Working on my B 80. The belt like material slipped out of the brake mechanism the other day. Can't find it to glue back in. Any ideas on what to use for brake material or anyone have some they would sell? 2. Also, I put a new hub on last year. Had to destroy the one on it to get the transmission apart. Seized real bad. This new hub no matter how hard I tighten it slips on the axle. I tighten it down and its fine for a while and slips. I got another spare one I am gonna put on. Hopefully it will "grab" better. Even thought of drying off all oil and using a file to "rough up" the axle. Anybody ever had this happen and know a solution? 3. Just to update,, as I have posted before been looking for rims and tires for the b 80. . I put a set of 23x10.50 x 12s on it I found at a local shop pretty cheap. BIG, but look real nice on it. THanks for all the help and advice! Jamie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,898 #2 Posted June 3, 2013 The brake linings are available already cut and drilled from Dave's Tractor World, or you can buy the raw material from McMaster & Carr, part # 6175K813 If the hub keeps slipping, take it off and drill and tap another 3/8-16 hole at 90 degrees to the first one. With a set screw and a bolt holding it, you shouldn't have the problem anymore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #3 Posted June 3, 2013 Or if you can see where the screw has marked the half moon key, grind a flat into it so the set screw sits in the cutout. That way the hub can't slide. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoctorHfuhruhurr 132 #4 Posted June 3, 2013 No pics of the rims and tires? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #5 Posted June 3, 2013 If you are using a 3/8" open end wrench to tighten the setscrews, you will never get them tight enough. the 'spec' is 28-32 lb-ft and you will only be able to do that with a socket... you will need an '8 point' socket to do so. If the 'cone' is all worn down on the end of the set screw, throw it away and buy new ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorsedairyfarmer 13 #6 Posted June 3, 2013 Hubs are such a pain in the drain! My "rules" on hub changing (developed by my own trials and errors in the last few months). New set screws and jam nuts and a new key. Seeing how you had the tranny apart, you probably changed the axle seal. If not, while you have the hub off again, change it! Sometimes the leaky seals can make slippage. And also as said above, drill and tap a second hole. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #7 Posted June 3, 2013 Absolutely agree with adding the second setscrew if your hubs only have one, and using a NEW woodruff key, and NEW setscrews. Once the hub is loose and the machine is run that way, the axle and hub begin to wear. The hub more than the axle being softer. With only one set screw, the hub will pivot on that point, back and forth, back and forth, and you will never get it tight enough again... By adding a second screw you are 'triangulating' the forces and locking the hub from pivoting and loosening up again. It seems that early on, hubs all had two screws, then at some point they went to only one... but, realized the error and went back to two screws again. I'm told that there was a service bulletin that instructed dealers to drill and tap a second set screw to 'fix' this problem but have not seen it. Let it go too long and you will be replacing the axle as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorsedairyfarmer 13 #8 Posted June 3, 2013 Someone needs to start a pic gallery on here and title it "Hub Failures".....I'm sure alot of people can come up with at least one pic of various hub mishaps. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
