suburban 400 rear hubs leak

[Luke 9]

Last night, we put gear oil in the gear box/ trnsmission of the wheelhorse. Today, we found the fluid had leaked out at the hubs of the rear wheels. What kind of seals are used at the hubs; Where do I get them; And how do I replace them?

 

Thanks,

Luke

 

 

[stevasaurus 22,227]

Well, you are in luck...kind of.    Those seals are a cap seal, and they just tap off from the out side with a screw driver blade.  The bad news is they are expensive and you can only get them from Toro.  #83-2840  they are about $18 apiece.

Edited April 30, 2013 by stevasaurus

[big mike 13]

Pretty decent lookin' Horse!.

I does look like it's not sure which way to go though  

[wallfish 15,870]

One thing to consider when replacing the seals is if the axle bearings/bushings are worn. This can cause wobble in the axle shaft which will cause the seals to wear prematurely. Most of the time they are worn if the tranny hasn't been rebuilt. The good news is those parts are not very expensive. The better news is Stevasaurus can guide you through the process of replacing them with his videos and advice, plus you'll end up with really nice tranny..

So far I just live with the leaks but have all the parts to do 3 or 4 of them. It's just another thing to get to "when I get around too it".

[Luke 9]

Pretty decent lookin' Horse!.

I does look like it's not sure which way to go though  

I could say that I did that on purpose to help when backing up, but the truth is, I have two sets of rear wheels, with two good left wheels, and two bad right wheels. I simply put the two left wheels on the tractor for the time being. When I prep and paint the rims, I'll correct the tire.

[Luke 9]

Well, you are in luck...kind of.    Those seals are a cap seal, and they just tap off from the out side with a screw driver blade.  The bad news is they are expensive and you can only get them from Toro.  #83-2840  they are about $18 apiece.

Thanks for the part number. I ordered the seals.

[Luke 9]

One thing to consider when replacing the seals is if the axle bearings/bushings are worn. This can cause wobble in the axle shaft which will cause the seals to wear prematurely. Most of the time they are worn if the tranny hasn't been rebuilt. The good news is those parts are not very expensive. The better news is Stevasaurus can guide you through the process of replacing them with his videos and advice, plus you'll end up with really nice tranny..

So far I just live with the leaks but have all the parts to do 3 or 4 of them. It's just another thing to get to "when I get around too it".

I'd like to wait a while before rebuilding the transmission.  My boy was ready to take it for the first test ride, when we discovered the leaking seals. We'll replace them, and check the axle bearings/bushings and see what we're dealing with.

[stevasaurus 22,227]

Luke, when you take off the old seals, look down the length of the axle.  The bronze you see is the bushing.  A new one is only like 1/16"...what you are looking for is whether the thickness is the same all the way around.  If it is thin on the top or bottom, they will need replacing in the long run.  If the thickness is consistent all the way around...you should be OK.

[Luke 9]

The seals have been replaced. The bearings were ok. The tractor drives in three forward and reverse. Thanks for the help.

 

Luke

[Luke 9]

We've noticed a leak at the brake shaft. Trans fluid is leaking onto the brake band area. How do I fix it?

 

Luke

[Racinbob 10,256]

Another seal Luke. There were two styles of bearings and seals on the brake shaft. If you have needle bearings you'll need a SKF 7410 (right seal in pic). If you have ball bearings it will be a Timkin 741643 (left seal). Pull the brake drum and it's easy to tell which you have. Again, this can be done without splitting the transmission. As already mentioned, stevasaurus rebuilds these things in his sleep and is always a great 'go-to' guy for help. That's do-say, not hear-say