Engine question on timing.

[jhunsch 20]

Engine question on timing.

I have a 10 Hp Briggs. Model 243431 Type 2580-01

This engine always ran very good, even with a rusty old ignition Module.

(Armature Magneto) it was covered with Mouse nest. Very rusty but still worked delivered a good strong spark. Well it finally gave up. I have replace the Module and points and plug. It seem to me that the spark is a bit weaker now, however the Engine does run, but poorly and it is hard to start. Because of the hard to crank and hard starting I decided to removed the fly wheel and inspect the fly wheel key. I found that the key was a tiny bit loose in the key way. I have ordered a new one. I am not sure that a new key is going to resolve the hard start completely. It should help.

 

So I need help under standing how to adjust the position of the ARMATURE BRACKET.

 

Looking at this Bracket it has 3 elongated mounting bolts. It appears as thought timing can be changed or adjusted here. The holes are elongated to the left and right. I have not changed anything here yet. I am hopeful that a new key will do it. The Armature Magneto attaches to this bracket and of course has the holes elongated up and down for adjustment of .020 gap.

 

I have been unsuccessful in finding any info on this Armature Bracket adjustment.

 

Thank you in advance for any advice/help.

 

[Don1977 604]

Did you change the condenser?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,498]

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2044-engine-bs-9-14-19-20-23-24-30-sm-part2pdf/

Your timing answer is on the last page of part 1 and the 1st page of part 2

Garry

[jhunsch 20]

Thank you for your time and reply.

I did also replace the condenser.

 

I have a new key on the way. It looks like a matter of fine adjustment now.

 

Gary Thank you very much for your help. These links are exactly what I had hoped for.

[groundhog47 347]

Take and ordinary business card and place between flywheel and coil armature/stator rotate flywheel till magnet pulls coil assembly armature/stator to magnet . Tighten securing screws, remove card, assure clearance by checkin with card and without card. Should be set.

 

If you have a module (magnetron type or older that is integral with coil on armature/stator) no points or condenser is used. Coil only on armature/stator normally condenser craps out first so definetly replace. Key is iffy dependant on shift/split but replace if have and be certain flywheel tightened securly or will split the new key easier.

[aremai4_27 0]

The spacing for a coil is .0125" (a standard business card) between the coil and the magnet on the flywheel, it's important that its done from the magnet and not any other part of the flywheel.  If it's still running bad, a lot of times, a coil going bad will also cause the flywheel key to sheer, which will throw your timing off, I've seen some keys that have sheered less than half a degree, and I've seen some that have been off 180 degrees.  If you have the coil spaces properly and it still runs bad, I'd check the flywheel key.  As far as the week spark, the new coil might either be defective and already on its way out or you might have a weak magnet in your flywheel.  To check the magnet, just take a non-magnetic screw driver and hold it to the flywheel magnet, it needs to be able to pull the screw driver in from at least 3/4 of an inch.  Another thing that might cause a bad spark is the plug, I'd check the condition and the gap of the plug and consider replacing if your coil and magnets are fine.