Iggy68 28 #1 Posted March 8, 2013 I'm having problems getting the governor to kick in on the GT14. I have adjusted it according to the directions and it still isn't working. I took the engine off the tractor and pulled the oil pan. The gear looks good, the rod has the flat piece of metal on it. I was reading and saw this Place cylmder block on lts stde. Shde governor shaft mto place from tnslde of block. Place speed control dtsc on governor bushtng nut and thread bushmg nut tnto block, clamptng throttle bracket tnto place Speed control disc. I have searched and read a bunch on governors. I do not see a speed control disc in my engine. Is it suppose to have one? I see the rod coming out of the gear that pushes against the flat piece of metal on the shaft that goes to the external shaft but no disc. Help please , Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #2 Posted March 8, 2013 The control disc was used on 8hp & smaller K series engines. I'm having problems getting the governor to kick in on the GT14. What is or isn't it doing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iggy68 28 #3 Posted March 8, 2013 The main problem is not much difference in the throttle, meaning anything above idle, half throttle to full throttle all sounds like the same rpms. The governor isn't kicking in at all. It had numerous slow oil leaks t different gaskets. Here is what I have done so far: Soaked the carb and it is real clean now. New throttle needles New float kit New points Adjusted the valve tappet. Throttle shaft bushing The high throttle needle was pretty worn, blunt end and it only had one hole below the threads. This weekend I will put it back together and see what it does I didn't want to put it back together without knowing if it was supposed to have the speed control disc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #4 Posted March 8, 2013 The governor is a speed control device and does not "kick in" - it functions constantly. The throttle cable (indirectly) pulls on the governor spring that's attached to the lower part of the governor lever. Pulling the lower part of the lever causes the top to move away from the carburetor, which opens the throttle plate via a link between the arm and the throttle shaft. The centrifugal weights and thimble on the governor gear respond directly to engine rpm. As the engine speed increases, the weights cause the thimble to move outward against the tab on the governor cross shaft, moving the top of the governor arm towards the carburetor - closing the throttle plate. When the spring tension and the centrifugal weight force equalize, the engine speed remains relatively constant. If a load is applied to the engine and the rpm drops, the weights and thimble retract (against spring tension), allowing the throttle plate to open. This "cycle" repeats indefinitely as long as the engine is running. Providing all related parts are correct, present, and in good condition, it may only be an adjustment issue. If you synchronized the governor lever / cross shaft per the manual, it's possibly a throttle stop or cable adjustment issue. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 516 #5 Posted March 9, 2013 Terry, if the cross-shaft moves freely in both directions with no resistance: Does that mean it is disconnected from the thimble/centrifical weights? If so what is the best way to re-attach? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #6 Posted March 9, 2013 If the cross shaft rotates indefinitely (with the governor lever removed) the tab is probably broken off. The cross shaft should rotate roughly 1/4 of a turn with a positive stop in either direction. Replacement of the cross shaft in the K-241/301/321/341 requires (at minimum) removal of the oil pan and a lot of patience. The cross shaft tab is not physically connected to the thimble - it is only held against the thimble by the tension from the governor spring. As you can see, the tab is riveted to the cross shaft and the tab is known for breaking through the rivet hole and falling off. One reason that happens is from manually overriding the governor. (grabbing the governor lever and pulling it to open the throttle) Metal fatigue is another factor..... years of having a spring pulling in one direction while the thimble is pushing in the opposite direction stresses the tab at the shaft attachment hole. I never put a Kohler single back together without adding a tack weld to the shaft/tab. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iggy68 28 #7 Posted March 11, 2013 I got it all put back together. I set everything according to the service manuel. It is running much better at high throttle. Problem now is it won't idle. It idles better when I engage the hydro but without any load on it it just stalls. Here is my question, what is the proper way to set the throttle cable? I had the throttle pushed all the way in and made sure the throttle on the carb was in the closed position then tightened up the screw that holds the cable. Is this right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
