over60pirate 24 #1 Posted July 7, 2012 I just got a set of Toro blades for my 42" rd deck. The blades are not even close to being sharp. 4 years ago, I bought a set from a mower parts dealer, and they (aftermarket blades) also were not sharp. The dealer told me they were not supposed to be. I sharpened them anyway. So, what's the deal? Are Toro blades supposed to be sharpened before use, or are you supposed to use them as received? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
massey 111 #2 Posted July 7, 2012 I always just installed the new blades and used them as is. I've never put a "razor hone" on lawnmower blades, I just put the same edge on as the factory ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #3 Posted July 7, 2012 I use a dedicated mower blade grinder for Oregon it's 1.5hp and has a 12" wheel. It makes the blades so sharp you can shave with them. You are supposed to sharpe your blades ever 8-10 hours. I keep mine sharp and they cut good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #4 Posted July 7, 2012 I razor edge my blades, but its not really necessary as the razor edge is usually gone in the first few minutes of mowing. Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
over60pirate 24 #5 Posted July 7, 2012 So far we have a split decision! Maybe we should make it a poll!!! I would if I knew how. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decksetter 50 #6 Posted July 7, 2012 Seems like the sharper you sharpen the blade the faster it will dull. Yes a razor sharp blade with a 30 degree angle on it will cut nicer while it's razor sharp, but it's going to wear down further faster than one with say a 70 degree angle. The point itself is what's doing the cutting and it's going to hold better the more steel is close to it. Also the more rounded off the corner is the worse it will cut. Try cutting a piece of paper by slicing through it fast with the round part of a pocket knife blade, then slicing through fast with the tip. Night and day difference, the point's going to cut through it easier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B-100 Dan 7 #7 Posted July 7, 2012 I don't know about what Wheel Horse says, but for my Woods 6 foot finish mower, after you sharpen them take a file to the cutting edge and file it flat till it is 1/32" wide. So the edge has a flat in it, and not a razer edge. I don't know how much it matters, the edge won't last very long anyhow. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
canam1991 2 #8 Posted July 7, 2012 I don't know about what Wheel Horse says, but for my Woods 6 foot finish mower, after you sharpen them take a file to the cutting edge and file it flat till it is 1/32" wide. So the edge has a flat in it, and not a razer edge. I don't know how much it matters, the edge won't last very long anyhow. This is how we do it at the mower shop... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #9 Posted July 7, 2012 I don't know about what Wheel Horse says, but for my Woods 6 foot finish mower, after you sharpen them take a file to the cutting edge and file it flat till it is 1/32" wide. So the edge has a flat in it, and not a razer edge. I don't know how much it matters, the edge won't last very long anyhow. This is how we do it at the mower shop... That will make the edge last much longer as there is more material on the edge. the blades are hardened and the hotter you get the blade while you are sharpening it, the weaker the edge will be. So after about 10 seconds of grinding, Dump the blade in some cool water to cool it off to keep the hardness. as for grinding or filing a thin flat edge, thats up to you. that blade is spinning at such a good speed that it will cut what ever you put in front of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dcrage 621 #10 Posted July 8, 2012 I actually cut my yard one time with the blades on backwards -- It took a while to figure out what was the deal -- The yard didn't look quite right, but the take home message(?) was the yard got cut with the back of the blades Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,328 #11 Posted July 8, 2012 The answers to putting a thin flat edge is right. By putting the flat edge on it or at least take a sharpening stone and knock of the knife edge. By doing this you prevent the micro tears that occur and start to spread up the blade. Thats the beginning of the dulling process. Doing this will make the blade hold an edge a lot longer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skrusins 128 #12 Posted July 8, 2012 Depends on the type grass you have. Your blade should ground to cut and not tear the grass while mowing. Tearing the grass is not good for the lawn. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wyattrrp 59 #13 Posted July 9, 2012 :twocents-02cents: I sharpen to a razor edge starting the season and 2 times during. Mow for 1-1/4 hr every 5 days in 3rd gear full speed with either the 42" SD or the 48" SD and the lawn always looks fantastic. No brown edges on the grass blades from tearing as with a dull blade. Still using the same blades for 15+ yrs so not all that much is removed each time. Sharpening takes little time to get the razor edge back using a bench grindstone as it is not worn all that much after 2 months or so. I dont have rocky soil, just the well established grass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites