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mattd860

C-161 Restoration

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Nice looking tractor, on the bubbling paint, I think you hit it on the nose, two things the primer/paint was not dry and it was too thick, I painted a C121 this summer and with in 3 or 4 days of it being done it was driven for hours at a tractor show for 3 days straight and it shows no signs of heat issues, I know it's only a 12hp but uses the same muffer set up.

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After I grind down the paint to the bare metal, Should I build up the pitted area with primer w/hardener or bondo? Note - the primer I used was un-hardened from a rattle can.

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Depending on how deep the pits are a good 2 part epoxy primer should fill pits with 2 good coats, then let it set for at least 24 hours before painting, rattle can stuff will probably do it again unless you give it a week or more to dry, then it still is not as good as epoxy, plastic auto body filler if used only to fill the pits and no more, should be ok.

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Looking at my C-161, it looks like the threaded pipe coming off of your motor is a little longer bringing yours a little closer to the hood?(if my memory if correct) Post a pic of the length of pipe on yours, I'll check to see that mine is the same. Mine has original paint on it and you can tell it got warm. I'd hate to see you go thru so much trouble and have it bubble up all over again. Even with the added hardener you added to the Rustoleum paint you used it is going to remain soft for a very long time.

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Depending on how deep the pits are a good 2 part epoxy primer should fill pits with 2 good coats, then let it set for at least 24 hours before painting, rattle can stuff will probably do it again unless you give it a week or more to dry, then it still is not as good as epoxy, plastic auto body filler if used only to fill the pits and no more, should be ok.

Kelly - What do you suggest for a good 2-part epoxy??? Do I spray it on or roll it on?

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What would be fool proof would be to lead the area like the old time body men did. You might either learn to do it yourself or find someone who's been around awhile (OK - a long time), I've watched it being done and it didn't look that hard, especially for filling in like you are doing....

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Matt,

I used that style muffler on a one of the 312-8's that I restored a few years ago. It was super tight in there and when I sold it I suggested to the buyer that he replace it with the correct muffler. I knew the paint was going to heat up so I wrapped it with header tape (that is what Charles it talking about). It is a thick cloth that you can get on line. It was not cheap but did a nice job for the time I had the tractor prior to selling it. Good luck-

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I had a simular Muff on my C-120 Snow chucker exhausting on the Fly Wheel side of the tractor. Well since I was useing The heat off the engine the flywheel sucked in fumes the first year and thats when I went to a stack! And as you can see by the stack on the 520 Snow Chucker Ole Duke dont play. :eusa-whistle: I nthink they look cool and gets the heat out from under the hood and just makes things run cooler. In my situation on the 520 I had to do it cause the stock 520 Muff interfeared with the snow cab. Do a stack and dont look back! By the way nice looking tractor :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Hey Stevebo, I bet ya miss that one! I haven't seen a Stevebo restoration in a helluva long time! :ychain:

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Yeah because he's too busy buying up every wh tractor on the East Coast :)

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I use a cheap epoxy primer you can only buy from a auto body supply shop you should have one in the area, the last one I used is "Omni line" and you spray it on.

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Looks great and, we all know, worth the effort!

Great start, excellent project.

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