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I was down at the local TCS, and picked up a couple of cans of valspar IH red. I had never used it before, but figured I would give it a try. I painted an inconsequential part, and before I could even walk away, I could see the orange peel forming. I was using rustoleum before and never had a problem. Interesting. I think I'll try very light coats and see how that works out.

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I was down at the local TCS, and picked up a couple of cans of valspar IH red. I had never used it before, but figured I would give it a try. I painted an inconsequential part, and before I could even walk away, I could see the orange peel forming. I was using rustoleum before and never had a problem. Interesting. I think I'll try very light coats and see how that works out.

How did you clean the surface you painted?

Over primer or overlay exsisting paint?

The Valspar IH red rattle can paint is pretty much my go to paint.

Seems more durable than the other brands & lays down better.....for me atleast.

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I painted over a coat rustoleum (red). I bet that was the reason. Hopefully, I'll have better luck on my other parts.

j

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That could definitley be it James. I haven't had a real serious issue yet. I did get orange peel on the hood, but to be honest, I have seen supposed professional painters get worse orange peel than I got. It was like a mirror when I painted it, but it dried with very slight orange peel. So far I have gone through 12 cans on my 18 auto with superb results. Even the color match from can to can is fantastic. I use Valspar primer under my top coats too, it shouldnt be that big of an issue but, its one of those safe than sorry deals for me. I do use Plasticoat high build primer also on parts with some extremem rust pitting with excellent success. Rustoleum is a very difficult paint to coat with anything other than Rustoleum. The paint takes days to dry to the touch, I actually gave up on it because of that. Valspar is usually dry to the touch within 30 minutes if the temp is above 60.

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More progress today mean more pics today!!!! I also got to order my new LED lights for the back of the fenders. They were so massacred with different holes I chose to go with a 6" red 40 LED light for the back to cover the butcher work and a 2 high output yellow LED for the front of the fenders. I know its only supposed to have a yellow refelctor glued there but its mine and I decided that I want lights there. The yellows are about 2" long, so they should fit between the front mounting holes without an issue. I have also found awesome LED headlight bulbs for it from Grote, but, being unemployed right now, I can't justify $120 apeice. Even though they will have 4 times the light output of the original 4411 bulbs at only 1.25 amps. The originals draw 5.8 amps.

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Fantastic! You are not that far ahead of me (not that it is a race, lol). I have my center plate in my derusting tank getting cleaned at the moment. It could be ready for paint by tomorrow. Then it will be on to the grille and surround (that piece in your picture). I don't think I am going to do much more than that till the spring, I need to use it soon.

BTW, how much did you pay for your decal set? Being unemployed also (there's a lot of that going around lately), I am not sure I want to spend a lot on decals. Also, I need to replace my rear lights. Do you have a link for your source?

James

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I second that about the rear led lights, I am as well redoing my 18 auto (just finished more parts will post later) and was wanting new light and reflectors. The yellow lights instead of reflectors sounds even better. :banana-gotpics:

Thanks.

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James,

I got my decal set from Vinylguy during the Christmas special. I dont recall how much they were because I got a set for 416 hydro too. Just be patient if you contact him, I've been waiting for quite awhile for a response to an email I sent him. He always gets back to you, it just takes time. Decals usually show up within 2 to 3 weeks....

Maiden, I'll see if I can get pics of the lights somehow

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post-1339-0-23482400-1328319046.jpgpost-1339-0-15963800-1328319047_thumb.jp

Heres the lights I chose for the 18 Auto

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http://www.superbrig.../m11.htm#photos

http://www.superbrig...s/m9.htm#photos

not trying to high this thread but here are the lights on the rear of my D

and these for the reflector replacement

Nice lights. I checked out some of their other stuff. Their prices are great too.

Hodge, are these the same ones that you ordered?

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James,

As you can see from his pics vs mine, his are a direct replacement for the factory lights, they're just LED. Mine are a full 2 inches bigger and have 16 more LEDs than those. I go big or go home!!! I paid a bit more but 20 LEDS on mine vs 4 on those things is worth it to me. :ychain: Mine will be 700% brighter than the factory lights and about 500% brighter than those.

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James,

As you can see from his pics vs mine, his are a direct replacement for the factory lights, they're just LED. Mine are a full 2 inches bigger and have 16 more LEDs than those. I go big or go home!!! I paid a bit more but 20 LEDS on mine vs 4 on those things is worth it to me. :ychain: Mine will be 700% brighter than the factory lights and about 500% brighter than those.

Thanx Hodge. Here did you purchase your lights from?

While I would like brighter lights, I don't really want to drill holes in my fenders to mount them. Still, the idea is enticing . . .

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Those 4 LED lights are WAY brighter than original or anything close to that and as far as only 4 LED's they are REALLY bright

It's all good though

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James,

If some person wouldnt have drilled no less than 6 different holes in the back of my fenders to mount different lights over its life I would have gotten the LED replacements. By me buying the bigger 6 inch lights I am able to cover the cobb job that was done before I owned it. I got mine at vehiclelight.com.

73-18,

Believe me, I really would love to have been able to buy your style lights. Unfortunately, the back of my fenders look like swiss cheese with all the damn holes in them from previous owners attempts at mounting lights. I could have welded them all the holes but they were so close together that I could never have made the fenders flat enought to look right once your style of light was mounted. These lights serve my purpose.

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No problem it's whatever suites yours or mine purpose hope to see some pics of those lights on your tractor oh and btw that thing is lookin good

James,

If some person wouldnt have drilled no less than 6 different holes in the back of my fenders to mount different lights over its life I would have gotten the LED replacements. By me buying the bigger 6 inch lights I am able to cover the cobb job that was done before I owned it. I got mine at vehiclelight.com.

73-18,

Believe me, I really would love to have been able to buy your style lights. Unfortunately, the back of my fenders look like swiss cheese with all the damn holes in them from previous owners attempts at mounting lights. I could have welded them all the holes but they were so close together that I could never have made the fenders flat enought to look right once your style of light was mounted. These lights serve my purpose.

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Thanx Hodge. I hope you post some pics when you get everything up and running.

I have sorta a paint question for anyone who can answer it.

I have been using rustoloum rust reformer in a can on all my metal parts. However, I am close to start working on the bucket for my FEL. As you can expect, it's rusty as heck, but not to far gone to be resurrected. Since I am going to be doing such a big surface area, no way do I want to spray it.

Since I am going to go out and buy something in a can, does anyone have any recommendations as to a rust reformer alternative (that's not overpriced), or is rustoleum about the best bang for the buck?

James

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If drilling additional holes in your sheet metal is a concern, you could always use 3M's automotive double sided tape to hold them in place. :dunno:

It's the same stuff the auto industry uses to hold emblems in place on cars, just contributing another option. :beer:

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If drilling additional holes in your sheet metal is a concern, you could always use 3M's automotive double sided tape to hold them in place. :dunno:

It's the same stuff the auto industry uses to hold emblems in place on cars, just contributing another option. :beer:

That's an excellent idea. But would it allow for a ground path for the light?

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Since I am going to go out and buy something in a can, does anyone have any recommendations as to a rust reformer alternative (that's not overpriced), or is rustoleum about the best bang for the buck?

James

Rust Reformer is sold in 8 oz bottles for use with brushes.......

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Since I am going to go out and buy something in a can, does anyone have any recommendations as to a rust reformer alternative (that's not overpriced), or is rustoleum about the best bang for the buck?

James

Rust Reformer is sold in 8 oz bottles for use with brushes.......

Thanx Trouty56. I saw that on the internet earlier. Curious - I believe that the cans are 12 ounces, but the bottles are 8 ounces. I wonder what the coverage is like with the 8 ounce bottles. I guess I'll find out.

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James....

Coverage is probably fairly good but eight ounces is only a cup.....a cup!!! Spray paint is very thinned out. POR 15 might be more suitable. I know I got a gallon once and did a heck of a lot of painting with it. Wear old clothes, a face shield, and elbow high rubber gloves though. Bet you will still get all over you....lol

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James,

Por 15 is the only way to fly when it comes to rust. Its a bit more expensive but I can say from experience, it absoloutely blows everything out of the water. There is NOTHING that can come anywhere close to is coverage and durability, That why I went with their gas tank sealing kit. They are the best!!! Hands down..... As far as a ground path for the lights. LED lights dont use a screw to make ground. The good ones are a completely sealed unit and have a seperate grounding conductor that can get run anywhere you have a reliable ground source. I'm going to make a new wiring harness for the lights and run my grounds to a single stud if possible. I'm also looking at a 3 circuit wiring system from painless wiring that has a hot lead

and then 3 fused outputs. If I run a hot lead from the battery hot through a relay with a 12 volt coil and to the fuse block and then the hot wire for the coil from the lead on my key switch I will have 3 fusible circuits that are hot only when the key is on. That will take care of my lighting, fuel pump and igniton system. They also make a 6 circuit for about 15 bucks more but I think 6 circuits might be overkill.

Craig,

drilling more holes doesnt bother me at all. Its the 12 holes that were there that I wanted to cover up. I'm sure I will be adding holes. I doubt that with how everything else has gone ith this thing, there will be 2 holes that line up with my new lights.

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Got my original :wh: seat today and got a fender wet sanded and painted.... Seats a little rough but for $60 I couldnt let it get away. I'll probably have the bottom recovered and the front of the top removed and grafted onto a redone back surround. It'll look relatively stock when its done.

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