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Martin

here we go again... 1057's turn now.

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got a little more done, hoodstand and dash were all cleaned up today, dash and gas tank support were painted. hoodstand will get a coat tomorrow after some minor work. got the steering mostly sorted and all painted, new bushings, new tie rods. just waiting for the bearing that goes up the front on the frame to hold the lower steering shaft. started assembling the starter/gen as well. got a electrical stud kit and brushes/bearing kit off ebay. used crimp terminals and heat shrink tubing on the connections to join them.

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next to get stripped....

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Martin that motor looks like it was assembled in an extremely meticulous manner. :bow-blue:

Like it just left the BMW assembly line. :scratchead::eusa-think: :laughing-lettersrofl:

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Great Job Martin!! Can't wait to see the finished product!!

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heres a few more......

starting to look a little more complete.....

hoodstand turned out awesome, thanks kelly..........

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Coming along real nice. Can't wait to see it done!

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Looking good, glad I could help, that hood stand was nice, like I told you I was keeping that for me.

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spent the day on some of the small but important stuff. set up the steering shaft and gear. drilled the lower shaft for a roll pin. will finish the top when the steering wheel is ready. all the lower steering stuff is done and painted so as soon as i get the front steering bearing in then the engine can go on the frame. reamed the clutch pedal for bushings and drilled the pedal for a zerk fitting. had to weld up the worn out hole in the pedal for the clutch rod pivot and redrill the right size. clutch/brake stuff that needed work also was the parking brake lever hole resized and welded up. clutch rod pivot that goes through the parking brake lever needed filling on the pin as it was worn from the lever as well. then it was on to the lift lever and related parts. lots of welding and redrilling of worn out holes and getting a previous repair of the quadrant redone right to look like it should be.

heres the pics......

steering all rebushed and lower part of new 3/4 shaft drilled for roll pin. no more slop in the steering anymore.

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had to remove paint from shaft as bushings for clutch pedal were a real close fit. bushings are 3/4 id x 7/8 od x 1 inch long.

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reaming pedal out to 7/8 to install bushings.

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reamed 7/8 hole.

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bushing installed.

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pedal back on shaft with bushings and zerk fitting.

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welded and ground/filed pivot.

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parking brake lever welded up and ready for paint. had to fill an area just below hole that was worn from the brake band rod.

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difference in previous botched repair and another quadrant that wasnt worn that much. gave me an idea of what needed filling and removing to get it back how it should be.

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had to fill lift lever pivot holes and redrill. hate drilling into weld as its so hard. end of lift lever shaft was worn as well so i needed to build it up with weld and grind it round to fit snug in hoodstand bushing.

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lift lever/quadrant all sorted and ready for paint....

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stuff to be powdercoated come monday....

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didnt get anything more painted, but got the starter generator back together. replaced bearings, brushes/springs and terminals, gave the armature a good clean and assembled. went together easy, almost too easy for my first, such that i spent a few moments looking around to see if id left anything out. i didnt seem to need any brush holders either, just slid the armature up in the case and pushed the brushes out enough to get the bearing through, then got repositioned and opened them up a little more to slide the armature home. then it was just a matter of installing the end plates. the hardest part was working out how to hold the pulley still, without scratching anything, while tightening the nut to preload the end bearing. (used a wider belt wedged in the pulley groove and clamped in the bench vise. slightly damaged an old belt. oh well......not using it again anyway....

pics.....

terminals all connected, used crimp terminals and removed the insulation, joined to wire and covered with heat shrink and then staked through eye of terminal onto stud.

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armature, brushes, new springs, installed and ready to be closed up

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all done ready to go on the engine.........

hopefully it works! i guess i will have to wait until the engines fired up when its all back together........

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Know that's looking gooooood! Top notch Martin!

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thanks scott.

so far ive been able to do this one 100% in powder, some of these parts are presenting challenges, though. even though ive been doing powdercoating for 11 years now, im no expert by a long shot and im still learning what works and what doesnt. 99 % of what we do at work is new metal, machined or unmachined castings that are far from assembled parts. all of the tractor stuff is just the opposite. everything turns out much nicer if you can totally dismantle before paint. i like to blast everything and smooth the metal somewhat to make the finish better. just finishing over some of the cast surfaces (engine, trans, starter generator,) sometimes leaves unsatisfacory results for me and i feel with just a little bit of effort before paint, the finish flows better and looks and feels smoother. sort of like sanding your primer/filler coats when doing wet spray. im also experimenting with wet sanding first coats and recoating to remove rust pitting and defects in the metal. ive only done this with some small pieces but it seems to be working out ok. one of the biggest drawbacks to powder is the fact that its mainly 'direct to metal' so theres no opportunity to fill any voids before 'top coat'. the biggest challenges to come are going to be the seat pan and hood. im confident i can pull it off with alot of work wet sanding and recoating, but i guess time will tell on the results. i would like this one to be better on the finish than the 1054 turned out. it looks ok but when you get up close all that rust pitting in the metal really annoys me. if the metal is rust free and straight to begin with, it makes it a bunch easier.

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Looks really good Martin!

Its got to be a lot easier on this tractor because you can work on the smaller pieces, as opposed to that big lump in the middle of the 1054.

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Looks really good Martin!

Its got to be a lot easier on this tractor because you can work on the smaller pieces, as opposed to that big lump in the middle of the 1054.

yes mike, the 1054 was definitely not the tractor to be my learning curve. this one by comparison is a cakewalk. i am sold on the ease of rebuilding these mid sixties long hoods, things could change, but im ready for a few more.........

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more stuff painted, slowly coming together. i sort of decided as i was painting a few pieces today that im not going to have any zinc plated pieces (except the fasteners and lift cable) on this one. everything will be painted red, or beige as in the wheels. i messed around with the fuel pump today while painting a few other things and decided thats the look i wanted for this one. the fasteners should break up the red a bit so it wont look like somebody just painted the tractor assembled. the hand brake was the first piece that was plated before that i painted and i guess it sort of just went from there. i think with everything painted totally apart and then assembled with new fasteners and gaskets etc it should look fairly unique. the carb will be turning red tomorrow...........

new lift cable, suprised that it only was $32 and i didnt have to mess around making one up.

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fuel pump painted........im looking forward to getting the carb done as well and seeing both mounted on the engine with new metal fuel lines. the lines will be left natural.

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Martin,

I really like your attention to detail and how you plan each step out. This is another quality build and one that you will be proud to show. Can't wait to see it in person!

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really nice job,she will be better that factory,can parts be filled with weld beforepowder coat,of coarse with grinding and sanding?

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thanks for all the comments guys...

im trying to get pics of every stage of the build, how im going about rebuilding and getting stuff looking better. its easy to forget about the pics and just keep working on it. lots of behind the scenes stuff to take care of along the way, trying to factor in how long it takes to get parts etc and thinking ahead to have stuff here when working on it so it doesnt hold you up. theres always something i forget though.

got the carb done, man what a tedious job that was, lots of masking and blowing off powder before cure, you really dont want any of this stuff in places its not supposed to be as its a b*tch to remove.

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got the lower steering all shimmed and tightened up nice, installed and adjusted tie rods. steering is way nicer now compared to the way it was before. i sort of compared the steering to what it might feel like steering a boat with a stick instead of an oar. front axle ends were ok so i just shimmed them tight, lower steering shaft was loose both ends, new bearing and reamed/installed bush fixed that. i am using the old gears even though they are worn, with a bit of adjustment they turn smooth, still a little play between the teeth, but its hardly noticeable. with worn areas reamed out to 7/8 and 3/4 x 7/8 oil-lite bushings installed and the new tie rods i think i will be happy. pic not real good but you can get the idea whats going on.....

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heres a few more pics of it coming together slowly........

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in this last shot you can see an area i missed filling where the seat pan was rubbing on the hoodstand. i went round and round about filling that area by welding and grinding it, but once the seat pan is on, im the only one who will know its there........oh, except for all you guys though......

this is one of many areas that i know of that make this a 'non perfect' build......not giving away any more though, you'll just have to discover the rest yourselves......

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WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!WOW!!!

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Looks great Martin. Would love to have the garage and the knowledge to get tractors to look anything close to yours :bow-blue: .I'am new to red square but with all the topics available their is hope for me.

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really nice job,she will be better that factory,can parts be filled with weld beforepowder coat,of coarse with grinding and sanding?

yes, most of my filling of holes, and whatever else, is done by welding and grinding. just have to do as good a job as possible with the metal as the powder is applied direct to metal. ive used some bondo/fillers in the past, but sometimes heating in the oven during paint cure causes the filler to 'gas out' through the paint and make the repair very visible. then its strip it and go at it again. really helps if the metal is rust and defect free, but with these tractors thats almost impossible......

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