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fourwheels0

8 speed fluid

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i plan on changing the fluid on 2 of my tractors.

310-8

160-8

how much fluid should each one take.

2 qts in each?.

i plan on using 90 wt oil in each.

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Both transmission hold 2 quarts. Wheel Horse recommended lubricant is SAE 90-140 A.P.I. Service GL-5 Gear Lubricant.

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Both transmission hold 2 quarts. Wheel Horse recommended lubricant is SAE 90-140 A.P.I. Service GL-5 Gear Lubricant.

:thumbs2: I have been needing this information too, my gear oil is rusty colored. I need the shifter boot replaced as well. I do keep the horse in a covered stall now but the PO left it outside.

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fourwheels0,

I don't mean to hijack your thread, I just want to respond to aeallison's post, it's all related.

Hope you don't mind! :banghead:

Both transmission hold 2 quarts. Wheel Horse recommended lubricant is SAE 90-140 A.P.I. Service GL-5 Gear Lubricant.

:banghead: I have been needing this information too, my gear oil is rusty colored. I need the shifter boot replaced as well. I do keep the horse in a covered stall now but the PO left it outside.

It sounds like your transmission fluid has been getting wet for a while now, with it being kept outside and a bad shifter boot. Is the fluid milky looking as well?

You might consider flushing the old fluid thoroughly before you refill with fresh gear lube. There's another thread here that discusses the idea in detail. There's several options for you to think about, especially in the choice of "flushing agents":

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26541

The shift lever boot is part number 3577, readily available at Toro dealers and lots of online suppliers. You should be able to get one in your hands for less than $10.

--------

And Mike, thanks for the link to the lube information, I never ran across that for some reason. For anybody who doesn't know (and that includes me up until just a few minutes ago), this document also includes information on mower spindle cups, belts and mower blades, all great information to have at your fingertips.

I used to wonder how you guys were getting your answers so quickly! :thumbs2:

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tunahead72 no problem that's all good info. thanks.

i now have 3 tractors to do :thumbs2: .

i picked up a c-121 yesterday.

man i need to build me a garage for these things haha.

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ok this is for those that have not changed your rear diff fluid.

this is what it looks like when it has not been changed in a long time.

this was out of my c-160.

DSCN4126.jpg

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Looks like mostly water. Since oil floats and water sinks to the bottom, they sure look like water bubbles on the top and around the edge.

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ok this is for those that have not changed your rear diff fluid.

this is what it looks like when it has not been changed in a long time.

this was out of my c-160.

DSCN4126.jpg

:dunno::wh::help: I would think the rear would of been getting pretty hot and possibly making a wining noise went rolling. It wont know how to act with new oil. :thanks:

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i'm sure there was some water in it (shift boot was bad). i ran the tractor around for a bit to warm up the fluid to help it drain better so some of the bubbles are from running.

it took forever for it to drain lol.

i'll do another flush after a little while and see how dirty it is.

it definitely shifts better and quieter now.

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It sounds like your transmission fluid has been getting wet for a while now, with it being kept outside and a bad shifter boot. Is the fluid milky looking as well?

You might consider flushing the old fluid thoroughly before you refill with fresh gear lube. There's another thread here that discusses the idea in detail. There's several options for you to think about, especially in the choice of "flushing agents":

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.p ... opic=26541

The shift lever boot is part number 3577, readily available at Toro dealers and lots of online suppliers. You should be able to get one in your hands for less than $10.

tunahead72

Sorry I haven't responded to your post until now but I just now saw it, I have been really busy trying to batten down the hatches before winter kicks in and when I was able to relax and surf the board I couldn't log in due to the unfortunate circumstances we all know of. Yeah I know the boots are inexpensive, and my local Toro service center is about 30 miles away. Its just that I am forced into curbing my spending on anything considered non-essential or able to wait. Its been really tight this year. If it were not for the rural Midwest's penitent towards the barter system I would probably be sitting in the dark right now. I did however flush the gearbox and replace the lubricant and so far it still looks like clean oil. :dunno:

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Hey guys the link talk about ultrasonic which is great for carbs but I don't see the relation to the rear end. My new to me 6 speed is rusty. I would like to change the oil and flush it too. Does anybody have any advice. This my first manual. I have always had hydros.

Thanks

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Drain the oil, fill the tranny with kerosene or diesel fuel, run it around the yard for about 15 or 20 minutes and drain it again. That should get most of the muck and yuck out. Refill with the proper amount of 90-140 gear oil.

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That's exactly what a very experienced small engine mechanic told me to do so I bought diesel to do just that. He also suggested using like a 75 weight, not working the tractor too hard and running that for an hour or two and flushing again. I would think the diesel should clean things out pretty well. My oil is brick red. There is no water that I can see but it was suggested to me the tractor has sat for a long time and the cast areas above the fluid have began to oxidize and thus the reason for the colour. I have a heater on the rear end now to warm up the oil so it will drain better. It's cold out here tonight.

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ive also learned latly (a reply from kelly) that auto tranny fluid cleans real good then rinse with 10w30 for a while,i guess till it gets a little warm and then the proper fluid,i used paint thinner and oil mixed a few times,but nothing is as good as splitting it and cleaning and inspecting every thing.

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