Work Horse 700

[nwh1-0475 0]

My dad has a Work Horse 700. I couldn't find the serial number on it but somebody has etched some number on the side of it, what do they mean? WO 81 6893 1232 5688, they didn't make any sense to me, if anybody can help it would be nice.

Anyway, it has been sitting about 14 yrs now and he wants it running so he can mow with it at his lake house. I changed the points, condinser, took the bowl off the carb and cleaned it, cleaned inside carb as much as possible without taking it off, took off gas tank and cleaned inside of it, replaced fuel line and filter. It started and I ran it about 20 seconds. I am wondering what else I should do to it besides change the oil before I run it for an extended period of time.

Thanks for the help.

Dustin

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

A Workhorse 700 should be a 1969.

Grease all the fittings and change the oil in the transmission and it should be good for mowing duty.

Maybe that number was written on there by a previous owner as some sort of personal identification. (in case it was stolen, etc.)

The ID tag should be riveted to the hoodstand just under the the bottom of the dash housing on this model.

[nwh1-0475 0]

That's what I was afraid of, it's gone, no ID tag to be found. Did the tractors come with a 7 hp tecumsie(?sp). I hope so because that is what it has. I also forgot to mention it has two wires that were worn in half going to the magneto, that is probably why it has been sitting so long not being used, it wouldn't run for some reason .

Thanks for the help TT.

Dustin

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Model number is 1-3741 for recoil start and 1-3745 for electric start. Both tractors used a 7hp H70 Tecumseh engine and a #5053 3 speed transmission.

I've see those wire divorces a few times myself, Dustin....

They ain't always pretty! :WRS:

[nwh1-0475 0]

Model number is 1-3741 for recoil start and 1-3745 for electric start. Both tractors used a 7hp H70 Tecumseh engine and a #5053 3 speed transmission.

I've see those wire divorces a few times myself, Dustin....

They ain't always pretty!

It is equiped with both a recoil and electric start. It also has a block on the back side of the motor with fuses, is this correct or an add on.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

I'd say it's probably the 1-3745 model then.

The plate with two diodes and one fuse is the old-school version of a rectifier - used to convert the A.C. electricity from the stator under the flywheel to D.C. for charging the battery.

Don't forget some pictures.... I think we need that model in the gallery yet. :whistle:

[nwh1-0475 0]

Thanks for the info once again TT. You are an unbelievable amount of knowledge on these WH's. There is a data plate up under the dash, not in the same place as my '73 so I didn't know for sure where to look. Thanks for the info on the plate also. Hopefully will be able to get it running tonight. Kids had ball games until 10:30 last night.

Dustin

[nwh1-0475 0]

Well, I tried to rebuild the carb last night but the kit that I got didn't have hardly any parts in it that would fit my carb. Does anybody have a source for a good rebuild kit, or would anybody have a "good" carb for the tecumse H70 motor for sale. It did run for about 5 min. and then started to slow down, I full throttled it but it just fell on its face. I took it back to the garage and gas was just dripping off of the carb everywhere.

Any help is appricated.

Dustin

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Did the carburetor kit have a new float needle and seat - and were you able to install it?

Tecumseh carburetors have a Viton sealing ring that pushes in to the brass "inlet jet" and if it gets lost (avoid using compressed air to clean the fuel inlet - you will never find that tiny needle seat again! ) or twisted, the float needle can't seal and gas will run straight through the carb.

Pull the carb off and clean the inlet passage again. With the carb turned upside-down the float should be level. (parallel to the float bowl sealing surface) Make sure the float doesn't have any holes. If it fills up with gas, it's no longer considered a float.

"Retired" snowblowers are a good source of these carburetors, but even though most of them are used very little, the sitting around with gas in the system can make the parts totally worthless.

Another option is to adapt a Carter or Kohler carburetor from a 7 or 8 hp K series engine to the Tecumseh. I haven't attempted this yet, but there are a few members here who have done it - or know someone who has. :D

[nwh1-0475 0]

The carbs float set was viton, the kit didn't come with a replacement. I did remove it and clean it and the passage way out, I might have damaged it without knowing. The float does not sit level, that could be the problem. I found a place that I can get a replacement carb for 85.00, I was just wanting to get a different one because mine is leaking so bad.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

After 14 years the belts may be brittle.

I would either replace them, or at the very least get the replacements and have them at the lake house.

There are probably 3 belts. Main drive belt. PTO-to-deck belt. Deck belt.

You have done well so far. I would look at that float valves again. Try some of the links in our link section (see below) and see if you can find the right carb kit.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=143

Best of luck.

[nwh1-0475 0]

Ok, well I got the carb rebuilt and it runs better. I ran it for about 25 minutes the yesterday and then it just started running out of power and died. Let it sit for about 15 minutes and it started back up and ran for about 10 minutes and did the same thing. A guy at work told me that the coil was getting to hot and loosing spark, I have a spare 10 hp Kohler, will the coil off of that work on my H70? Or do I need to buy a new one.

Thanks, Dustin