Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
pfrederi

Moldboard Plow Horsepower?

Recommended Posts

pfrederi

Just spent 90 minutes plowing spring out of driveways (6" of new snow and more coming)

But it is time to think spring. I got a moldboard plow last fall and need to mount its clevis hitch on a tractor. Question is which one. I see pictures here of various models plowing but the dirt looks like good dirt i have mostly clay and a whole bunch of rocks.

How much HP and 8 speed or hydro???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
qd-16

My 856 with a k-181 has no problems pulling a moldboard plow. getting enough traction seems to be the biggest issue for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
farmer

I would agree with Al,

Its not so much about grunt, as grip. So good tyres and weight.

Transmission?..depends on how strong your arm is. :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

In the 60's my dad plowed a fairly large garden with a 604 with the factory "Town & Countries" on the back with no weights and chains and the stock 6 HP Tecky hand grenade supplying the power. :thumbs: :wh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jim_M

RJ's are only 4 horsepower and they plow just fine. I prefer a manual transmission over a hydro for plowing, but either one will do the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
VinsRJ

RJ's are only 4 horsepower and they plow just fine.

Even a RJ35 with 3.5hp plows pretty well..... although really slow. :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mavfreak

slow is the key, get better traction that way!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6wheeler

I agree as well. Traction is more important than horsepower. You are only pulling either a 8", 10" or12" plow. Of course, more horsepower will make it pull easier but if you spend more time spinning your wheels than pulling, it will seem like you ain't accomplishing anything. I like the 8spd myself, because I can change gears as conditions change. Also, I think an important point. If you go too fast, it is hard to control your tractor. But by the same token, if you go too slow the dirt will not roll over. As you do it more and get to see what the machine is capable of, the better job you can do. If you do get good traction and the plow is working well it can actually lift the front of your tractor through torque. This makes it interesting to steer and stay in the furrow. But, it sure is fun :thumbs: .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHEELMAN

I plow 4 or 5 gardens every spring with

a one bottom plow with my 1276. It has

a k301 12 hp. I need to use chains with

rear wheel weights and weight on the nose

to keep it in the row. 8 or 12 hp means nothing

without traction. good luck !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
SNYFIX

It's a trick but alot of how you plow is how the plow is adjusted. Thats what the hand crank (Brinley brand) does for you. To much "down" and the plow digs right in making plowing almost impossible. To much "up" and the plow will just ride along on the top of the ground doing nothing. Properly set the plow and the tractor will work perfect together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

I agree as well. Traction is more important than horsepower. You are only pulling either a 8", 10" or12" plow. Of course, more horsepower will make it pull easier but if you spend more time spinning your wheels than pulling, it will seem like you ain't accomplishing anything. I like the 8spd myself, because I can change gears as conditions change. Also, I think an important point. If you go too fast, it is hard to control your tractor. But by the same token, if you go too slow the dirt will not roll over. As you do it more and get to see what the machine is capable of, the better job you can do. If you do get good traction and the plow is working well it can actually lift the front of your tractor through torque. This makes it interesting to steer and stay in the furrow. But, it sure is fun :thumbs: .

My dad used to lean back against the backrest on the 604 and the front wheels would be way in the air. I don't recall how straight the rows ended up being :wh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
boatman

:wh: HI, I plowed garden with c-125 8 speed for years. I added 25lb

nose weight and was able to always plow in second high. had 50lb

weights on each rear wheel and chains. I was pulling a brinly 10" plow.

Used to plow with a hydro but after a couple rounds, oil would be so

hot hydraulic would hardly raise plow. I prefer manual tranny for hard

pulling :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
d200

I prefer using hydro for plowing and tilling but I like my manual for pushing snow around. I wish I had a low option for my b tractor. Good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Thanks for the input . I am going to use a C-81 I got at the show last year. I have some 6.00x12 snow tires, some chains, and 50 lb weights for each side. I will swap out the front wheels for some older narrower ones, some where I have weights for front wheels.. Going to be awhile yet, still have snow on the ground....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dale

my C-81 does a great job. I have 105lbs on each wheel, plow setup and traction are more inportant than hp. But I would like to have a hydro so my son could plow without my help lifting at the end of the row.

these pics are from last fall

plowinggarden084-1.jpg

plowinggarden083-1.jpg

plowinggarden082.jpg

plowinggarden085.jpg

plowinggarden087.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...