Quick question on a Husqvarna

[Dave 0]

My Husqvarna, B&S V twin, is running rough. For some reason I checked the oil while it was running. A spray of oil come out of the dip stick tube. Am I correct in thinking that is not a good thing?

[mavfreak 11]

I feel its normal. the crankcase has a certain amount of pressure in it and you released the pressure by taking off oil cap. But I don't know the year of your briggs that would tell us if you have a pump or oil splash

If I'm wrong please tell us!

[Dave 0]

It's not that old and I think has an oil pump. I'll get the exact engine size and number and post it later. Thanks. Right now it runs kind of rough and surges when under load.

I just replaced the fuel line from the tank all the way to the engine. It looked fine on the outside but was rotten on the inside.

[mavfreak 11]

Does it run better with the choke on or part way on? Right now it sounds that maybe a carb rebuild is needed

Does it have a oil filter?

[Dave 0]

Does it run better with the choke on or part way on? Right now it sounds that maybe a carb rebuild is needed

This is recent. It was running just fine until yesterday. I do have to restart it with the choke on. That's new. Before it would restart right away when warm.

Fuel filter is clean. New air filter. Gas is also new.

Does it have a oil filter?

Yes. I'll change that along with the spark plugs this weekend.

[mavfreak 11]

OK it sounds like you got some dirt or something in your carb. You can take it off and clean it with some carb cleaner get all those little holes cleaned up and put back tither and try it out.

The oil that came out of your dipstick is kinda normal with a pressurized system but you may want to check to make sure your oil breather is clean. Not sure were it is on your engine.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

If the dipstick tube enters the crankcase below the oil level - which I'm fairly certain that it does regardless if the engine is a Vanguard or an Intek twin - it will puke oil out of the dipstick tube if the dipstick is removed when the engine is running.

As far as it running rough goes...... it could be dirt in the fuel system (like previously mentioned) or even a shot of water.

I'd tell you to pull the fuel cut-off solenoid and clean the float chamber, but it might not apply to your machine. (the Husqvarna at work has a fuel-injected Intek twin)

[mavfreak 11]

TT I Heard that briggs did a fuel injection on there big Intek twins 20 or more horses in like 2009 or something like that. Is that correct?

I would really like to know more about them, how they work and all that fun stuff. Is there anything or someplace I can look this up?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

The one at work is a 2010 YTH23V48. (23hp) There isn't much mentioned about the engine on Husqvarna's website, but there might be some information on the B&S website.

The only things I can tell you about it is that I'm pretty sure the fuel injection unit is made by Mikuni, it has throttle response, and is very easy on fuel.

"Ours" has a 3 bin catcher and is used only to mow the pool yard at the country club. It was bought new last April and racked up a whopping 35 hours last season with no problems.

[Dave 0]

More info... it's a GT2254, 22 HP ELS Briggs&Stratton, 54 inch deck.

I don't think it's fuel injected. At least there's no mention of it.

Can anyone here decode Briggs serial numbers?

I went to one site that said it has the codes, but all I got was a virus.

[mavfreak 11]

All you need to do is go to the briggs and stratton web sight. Once there you can put your numbers in and it will give you a parts digram and such.

Go there and give it a try.

Also I do like something TT said is water in the fuel. It doesn't take nuch to make the engine unhappy.

[mavfreak 11]

sitting behind the Husqvarna (it being a litttle while since I seen one) Is that a groundsmaster pro?

[Dave 0]

Thanks for the help. Tomorrow I will change the oil, plugs, gas, and fiddle with the carb, and see what happens.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

sitting behind the Husqvarna (it being a litttle while since I seen one) Is that a groundsmaster pro?

Directly behind the Husqvarna is a '96 Jake Greens King IV diesel. Beside the GK is an '08 Toro Greensmaster 3150Q.

[mavfreak 11]

I have been looking for the pro cause I have one brand new cutting head and a box of parts for one. For some odd reason I liked them.

I used to work in a shop sharping reels. I loved it and miss it. I have been trying to buy a peerless grinder 1300 or an Ideal 900 for my old boss but he won't sell it. (He wants to keep it in case his new spin grinder isn't able to work on something). Not to may people left that can grind anymore. My old boss will tell people that I forgot more about mowers (reel) than most people know. I guess that could be true after 18 years of working on them

Sorry dave for hijacking your thread! :thumbs:

[mr.pipes 4]

Sorry to get off topic.

What is the machine on the right, sitting below what I am guessing is an air compressor?

Looks like a Toro also with a small dozer blade on it?

What is that used for? :thumbs:

[mavfreak 11]

Its a toro Sand Pro used to fix and maintain sand traps. Neat little things!

[Dave 0]

Sorry dave for hijacking your thread!

Not a problem at all. Check back tomorrow evening to see if I killed my tractor.

It's time to get the battery charged on my trusty Wheel Horse. I'll need it this summer.

[mavfreak 11]

Check back tomorrow evening to see if I killed my tractor.

It's time to get the battery charged on my trusty Wheel Horse. I'll need it this summer.

Kill it! I hope not...Just take your time...And give an update when you can...Good luck :thumbs:

[Dave 0]

Arrrrrrrrgh... Got the spark plugs changed.

Can't get to the two screws that hold on the carb bowl. I'll get a special, angled screw driver tomorrow.

The oil drain plug is strange and in a bad place. The "plug" is more of a spigot and the bolt on the end of the "plug" that opens the spigot can't come out all the way because it's blocked by the chassis. The oil just dribbles out and it will take at least an hour for all the oil to drain out.

I like working on my Wheelhorse better.

[Dave 0]

IT LIVES!

I didn't kill it. To get to the carb I just took off the whole intake manifold. Sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in it, blew it out with some air, then put it all back.

After a bit it started and now runs great.

Now I have to get my Wheelhorse going. More carb problems there.

[mavfreak 11]

:thumbs: great job! :thumbs:

[hodge 6]

IT LIVES!

I didn't kill it. To get to the carb I just took off the whole intake manifold. Sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in it, blew it out with some air, then put it all back.

After a bit it started and now runs great.

Now I have to get my Wheelhorse going. More carb problems there.

Don't know about you guys, but it seems like carb problems are becoming more common than ever. It has to be partly due to gas quality/ethanol.

[Dave 0]

Don't know about you guys, but it seems like carb problems are becoming more common than ever. It has to be partly due to gas quality/ethanol.

In this case I believe it was. I had to replace the gas line from the tank to the fuel pump. It was rotten on the inside. I wasn't careful enough and some of that rot, some fine sand size grains of hose, got into the carb. The hose rotted because of the alcohol in the fuel. So, if you haven't replaced your fuel lines in the past 5 years or so, I'd do it now. It's cheap, easy, and could save problems in the future.

[mr.pipes 4]

Don't know about you guys, but it seems like carb problems are becoming more common than ever. It has to be partly due to gas quality/ethanol.

I asked the local dealer if he was seeing many problems due to Ethanol and he said "Tons of problems".

He suggested running it dry if you wont be using it for a while. If the tractor is going to sit for weeks place plastic wrap under the cap and keep the tank full. This will keep the Ethanol from absorbing the moisture in the air outside and there will be no air in the tank to condensate.