ducky 1 #26 Posted December 12, 2010 just a thought on the auger shaft and the gear box. how hard could it be to make a support rod to help hold it where it should be. so it dosen't get bent a-gen? just a thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bobert94 38 #27 Posted December 12, 2010 bracket part # is 117550-01 had to buy one for my 520 as it was also missing was pretty pricey at 45.00 4 years ago. Just checked online its still available from toro price is up to around 60.00$ Good luck ,they are a beast to move arond. Wish i still had my singe stage. :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #28 Posted December 13, 2010 http://newhavenpower.com/Toro_Classic_44_T...now_Blower.html This is the site I had found the specs. It is kind of a cool site because they still list and show pics of NLA attachments. Wow, I knew it was a tank but 380lbs. Guess compared to moving boilers it doesn't feel to bad. I have seen that site before while searching WH stuff. Looks like some of the attachments are still available through them. They list the 5xi blower at $2899.99 and the 400xt is $1839.99. Does anyone know how much the one for the 300,400,500 was brand new? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #29 Posted December 13, 2010 Im going to order these parts that I am missing and just straighten the impeller. that thing costs $230 bucks! TLB 110614 Spring $12.76 TLB 117552-01 Guard-Belt $9.51 TLB 117550-01 Bracket-Guard $54.37 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #30 Posted December 13, 2010 Im going to order these parts that I am missing and just straighten the impeller. that thing costs $230 bucks! TLB 110614 Spring $12.76 TLB 117552-01 Guard-Belt $9.51 TLB 117550-01 Bracket-Guard $54.37 That stinks. It's to bad that you didn't get a chance to see it before you bought it. Maybe you can find something used. Put a post in the wanted section and maybe someone has a parts blower. Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Operator 7 #31 Posted December 13, 2010 Not really needed though . Randy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,925 #32 Posted December 13, 2010 You could just use a piece of angle iron to attach the anti-sway bar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #33 Posted December 13, 2010 Too late already ordered that stuff. lol I got a few bushings and bolts as well just in-case I needed them I didn't want to have to run out to the hardware store. lol pics to come of some work I did tonight on this beast,! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #34 Posted December 13, 2010 I do have a couple questions Brian, after getting that blower on there how much do you figure it weighs? I have been trying to find the stats on the weight but havent been able to My guess would be around 3 to 4 hundered lbs just wonder what you thought? Now how does it steer with the blower up? Have you noticed anything? lol a lot! and yes I can not steer the wheel unless moving, I had to air my tires all up, and I am def. going to need to get some chains and weights installed. lol Oh and something with the front wheels like you all posted before. new tires or chair around tire. lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #35 Posted December 13, 2010 1st off I am thinking about going to the hardware store and just buying a new section of chain and making one the same length cause mine is still kinked. It spins on the sprocket but it is pretty rusty so I am just going to replace it while its off. I removed this sprocket and it was loose, the bolt holding it on was way to short. It was sliding back and forth on shaft. I went to hardware store and looked for those square head bolts but didn't find any. So I bought these 2 heat treated alan bolts with cupped ends. lol should work better than other bolt, will see. you can see that dent, its not bad and not causing any harm I believe. also the bearing in there is in great shape. all good shape. here is the impeller. I thought it was in ok shape but I was wrong. lol took some more time tonight and heated them and banged them with my trailer ball thing. lol (bad) (bad) As good as I am getting it, this was not flat before and I think why the auger was wobbling. (After =Good/better than it was) So I am letting the diff drain and I am going to get that new chain along with some red paint and go to town painting it all up quickly. I was thinking about doing the MOD to the impeller while I have it out... but. My pine trees drop pine cones all year and my snowblower has to be able to deal with them. I clean them up but they still fall and I shoot them out my walk behind all the time. lol I think the rubber may interfere? will it? I know I will never have to worry about denting these impellers the way there where before because there is no rocks in or around my driveway. So I should be all set there. I just also worry about my impeller not being 100% straight and then adding those rubber pieces to them is that would have any ill effects on my system? Is the impeller balanced will it wobble now that it is not 100% straight? I know it wobbled before so I hope it will not wobble anymore. ok well I hope I will have it up and running 98% soon. talk to you all soon and thanks for the help and input. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #36 Posted December 13, 2010 Dont think rubber or no rubber will have any affect on snowblowing pine cones. The bent/unbalanced impeller certainly could have been the source of the wobble. You will find out when its back together and I would bet it improves or dissapears. The impeller spins pretty fast and if it was bent bad that would be unbalanced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #37 Posted December 13, 2010 Dont think rubber or no rubber will have any affect on snowblowing pine cones. The bent/unbalanced impeller certainly could have been the source of the wobble. You will find out when its back together and I would bet it improves or dissapears. The impeller spins pretty fast and if it was bent bad that would be unbalanced. yeah I bet, also the collar near the bearing was not tightened down and moved so that probably happened because the bent impeller was hitting the back side of the blower on one spot every time it went around and caused it to move in and out and kick it sideways a bit.. I hope it dissapears as well, I have faith. so are pine cones bad or will the snowblower just spit them out with ease? Oh yeah and during that video I didn't have the tractor rev'ed up so it was spinning slower for sure. I didn't want to chance that high speed yet with that old chain. (didn't know about impeller then haha) While I have a few of you guys attention, anyone know where I can get a replacement muffler that is pretty quiet? Or any custom muffler ideas that would be cool. I have a small welder I can try to make something just don't know what to use for a muffler. I was thinking a dirt-bike muffler maybe cool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #38 Posted December 13, 2010 I don't think you want to try and blow pine cones. I would guess that blower wouldn't mind much. I just cant see how the rubber would change how it would handle them. Defiantly want to avoid rolled up newspapers. Search the site for mufflers, check em out on youtube for sound. I think Duke was looking for ideas on stacks recently. Once you get the cab you can be his twin. Others may have stories of sending foreign materials through a blower. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #39 Posted December 13, 2010 Brian, Did you see my new avatar? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #40 Posted December 13, 2010 Brian, Did you see my new avatar? Yes I did that looks beautiful did you get one? I am not sure what it is because I am new still but it looks sweet. I see a few people with ones like that with those grills. I like it a lot. I may have to pick up one of those someday. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #41 Posted December 13, 2010 I do have a couple questions Brian, after getting that blower on there how much do you figure it weighs? I have been trying to find the stats on the weight but havent been able to My guess would be around 3 to 4 hundered lbs just wonder what you thought? Now how does it steer with the blower up? Have you noticed anything? lol a lot! and yes I can not steer the wheel unless moving, I had to air my tires all up, and I am def. going to need to get some chains and weights installed. lol Oh and something with the front wheels like you all posted before. new tires or chair around tire. lol Ok thats one of the first things I noticed when I put the Blower on how heavy it was as Mr. Pipes said 380 lbs (it always takes a good pipefitter like myself to teach these plumbers ) just kidding Pipes! Anyways Brian thats one of the reasons I put the TRI-RIBS on if you can ever swing a $150.00 for a Set of those from Miller Tire you will not believe how the tractor Steers!!! Its feels almost like having PWR Steering!! No Joke! Also they provide better traction and your going to get a lesson in tractionbefore the winters over, When the blower is up all the loads on the tires (steers real good) when the blowers down there goes the weight and thats when ya need 75lbs a wheel and in the fronts thats hard to do without useing lead. ARE WE HAVING FUN YET? :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,925 #42 Posted December 13, 2010 I bet the guy who used that blower before can tell some stories about shoot'n crap out of a blower. Nice job getin that impeller straightened out. I don't think pine cones should be any problem since the have some give and will cut in half if caught up in something. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #43 Posted December 14, 2010 not sure I can swing new tires now during holidays but maybe someday. but i would want new separate rims as well for the tires because I like mine for the yard. I saw a few pics with regular chains on front and wheel weights at all 4 wheels is that ok for steering? I talked to my uncle and not only does he have some chains for my rear tires but he has wheel weights and a rear weight thing he made to go in the trailer ball hole. cant wait to see what that looks like lol think it is made of cement some how. so I just got back in from my garage. I keep walking around the tractor making mental notes of things I want to fix up or clean or improve some way. lol I feel like its my jeep parked in there but its my tractor.! just another obsession or disease what ever you want to call it.! I bought some paint, but I am not sure if I am happy with the color. it is a gloss paint as well, is that what you guys all use? I am wondering if anyone has found some paint that matches the WH paint better or if I should just spray the tractor and snowblower and deck with this paint? After all ALL of my current paint is faded so I bet it would look nice all nice and red again.) (Duke yours looks bright red and I Like it) bought a bunch, but I can return it if there is a better color. input please? (the cap doesn't seam to match the color of the paint inside.!) So I looked at two hardware stores fro chain and I could not find any. I know I could if I waited till tomorrow and tried this place they told me.... but... I had nothing else to do tonight so I decided to try and revive the old chain. I used a wire wheel brush on my drill and went to town trying to get every nook and cranny. I noticed in a few spots it was really stiff, after looking closer I could see it was because when I first tried to loosen it I used a hammer! (the chain was brown and not moving when I first got it.) note to self.... Bad idea.. the hammer dented some of the chaine and made it hard to open and close the links. I managed to use a small file to smooth them down. along with the brush and some wrenches and lots of PB blaster and liquid wrench I think I saved 49.95 (price of new chain) got this old one loose as a goose.! man my finders are sore though! soak file and brush repeat till this. looks better in person. Also I DO plan on doing the impeller mod with rubber. I bought these pre drilled things cause my drill bits are all toasted. I plan to cut the 4th hole off, but the holes look like they will fit nice! Also bought all stainless hardware and lock washers and nylon nuts. (are those ok for this) here is what i was thinking about using for the rubber. will this work or is it to thick being 3 ply sidewall? Also whats the best way to cut up a tire? (I plan on using the tread pattern for something else fun down the road:) ) here is why I want to use this tire. I punctured the sidewall off roading. man did that bum me out! new tire cost me 230 cause i couldn't find any local If I can get this all painted up ASAP and do this rubber MOD I will be able to test it out again.! I cannot wait, but I want to take my time and make sure its all set before I put it all back together. oh and I bet the PO stopped using this and went to his plow because he was chucking to many rocks at neighbors or cars or his house. lol I wish i could have saw it when it hit what ever caused that dent! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #44 Posted December 14, 2010 You can get 10 feet of chain at tractor supply co for $20 if I recall. I have cut tires with a utility knife before to snaek them by the trash guy. Use a new blade and it slices it nice and clean. Get a metal ruler or something else for a straight edge. I'm not sure how thick those sidewalls are but they may be more than you need. I would think about 1/4 inch should be good. If they come in contact with the housing you don't want the machine to bog when it is trying to seat or wear the rubber to the right fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sgtsampay 117 #45 Posted December 14, 2010 Wow, looks great C-160. Keep it up. Nice job with the chain... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelbearing 49 #46 Posted December 14, 2010 Nice find on the blower. I picked one up from Fireman about a month ago. 1. the parts you are missing are the same ones I was missing. I have the ability to make those parts but I just bought them instead. The bracket that holds the belt guard also holds the anti sway bracket you currently have. That anti sway bracket actually only stops the belt from hitting your hood. I doesn't stop it from swaying the the other way. 2. From watching your video your auger shaft is bent like a banana. And I'm 80% sure the fan shaft is bend as well from the auger shaft being bent. It might not be though because the fans shaft spins much faster than the auger shaft. 3. I saw your upper gear box that connects with the belt is cocked to the left. Mine was the same way. I ended up putting a 3/16 thick spacer under one side of the gear box to correct it. 4. I too changed the square head screws to Allen cap screws. Good luck and have fun... :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #47 Posted December 14, 2010 Nice find on the blower. I picked one up from Fireman about a month ago. 1. the parts you are missing are the same ones I was missing. I have the ability to make those parts but I just bought them instead. The bracket that holds the belt guard also holds the anti sway bracket you currently have. That anti sway bracket actually only stops the belt from hitting your hood. I doesn't stop it from swaying the the other way. 2. From watching your video your auger shaft is bent like a banana. And I'm 80% sure the fan shaft is bend as well from the auger shaft being bent. It might not be though because the fans shaft spins much faster than the auger shaft. 3. I saw your upper gear box that connects with the belt is cocked to the left. Mine was the same way. I ended up putting a 3/16 thick spacer under one side of the gear box to correct it. 4. I too changed the square head screws to Allen cap screws. Good luck and have fun... My upper gear box that connects to belt did look a little at an angle, but in the pics here I have the bolts disconnected and it is just hanging there. What kinda fluid goes in that and how do you drain it? Also what you all think those metal pieces will be ok or should I get aluminum? Also my shaft is not bent I checked it with a laser. It had to have been the impeller being bent and hitting the case and that was what was making the augger and shaft kick side to side. Will know once I get it back together. Its starting to snow here now, but I don't think we are getting much. I was thinking of painting my whole tracor but I am going to wait till summer for that. I am just going to spray the augger and impeller and inside of chute and case. Then try this bad boy out again. Going to get some new drill bits and blades today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Operator 7 #48 Posted December 14, 2010 Did you check that front auger drive gear box? Randy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-160 Tractor 1 #49 Posted December 14, 2010 Did you check that front auger drive gear box? Randy Check it how? I would like to drain it and add new fluid, what type do I use? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #50 Posted December 14, 2010 Looking good! Since you already have it apart. Do yourself a favor and get a new chain. Chains stretch over time and cause irregular wear on the sprockets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites