i got'a leaker.....axle seals

[perry 82]

anybody know where i can find some axle seals for my B-100 8spd?. i changed the rearend fluid last week and use it for about 2 hrs afterwards to haul some wood. the next day i noticed the rim soaked in fluid. i looked and saw that the hub worked its way inward and was rubbing on the axle seal/housing. never had that happen on any of my oldies before. must be something with that 70's generation . i tapped the hub back and tighten it down. is this a indication that my hub is wore?. .. thanks...............perry

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,648]

Seems strange that it leaked after you swapped fluids. Did you use a thick gear oil? Like 80-90. Thats what I use in mine and some guys use even heavier oil.

Mike....

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,121]

Does that have 1 1/8" axles? You should be able to pick them up at your Toro dealer, or you can cross reference the number and get something at Napa. Shouldn't be too expensive, around $5.00. Does that axle have 1 or 2 screws to tighten? I think that some of the older ones have only 1, my newer ones have 2.

[perry 82]

i used 80 W 90 lube. was already low and did show a little old grime around seal when i got it.

now that its filled its leaking bad. and maybe the oil on the shaft caused the prombaly already loose hub to move in?. i need to find theese local, or threw paypal. too bad my friends of the family wheel horse dealer closed after 50yrs doing business . they where 5min away. i dont really have one close buy. maybe 30-45 min drive one way. is there a link some where i can locate my closet dealer?. maybe i should check toro.com first uh?.

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,121]

If you don't have a dealer local, find the part number for the seal, I use milacalawn.com. Then go to napaonline.com, under parts and accessories click on browse our catalog. In the NON-Napa part number field, put in the Toro part number and it will cross it to the Napa number. From there you could probably get it at any auto dealer. Only problem with on-line is that you pay more for shipping than the part itself.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

I know that some of the JD guys use 140 weight in the old Peerless 4 speed transmission instead of the 80/90 weight that Tecumseh recommends. When I did my transmission in my JD 210 in June I used 80/90. The guys who used the heavier weight do so to reduce the transmission whine that is so common with the Peerless transmission. I don't know if it will solve leaks, though.

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,121]

Yeah, Toro.com can show you the closest "parts" dealer to you. I have 2 near me, one is basicallu service and parts while the other is more sales. For axle seals I would try an Autoparts store first though.

[Buzz 502]

The Toro number for the axle seals on your B-100 is #100443. That cross references to Chicago Rawhide # 11050. NAPA carries that brand and can usually have them the next day with no shipping charge.

[perry 82]

you the man buzz. i have a napa nice and close thanks all for the info....perry

[Banjo 0]

I was going to start a new thread about how to replace my leaky axle seals on my 310-8 but I did a search and decided to bump this thread instead.

Searching through the threads I found, I learned the hubs are not going to be fun to pull!

My question though is, do the old seals pull out somewhat easy and do you have any recommendation as to how to remove the old and install the new seals.

One more thing, the transmission manual does recommend 140W oil for these things.

Thanks,

Banjo

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Banjo, I use an O-Ring pick to remove the old seal, and a small piece of PVC pipe as a "tapping block" to seat the new ones. Helps to lube the seal and the axle shaft before putting the new ones in. You might have to really dig in to get the old ones out, oh, and don't worry about wrecking them... you're replacing them anyway, right?! :D

[Banjo 0]

Banjo, I use an O-Ring pick to remove the old seal, and a small piece of PVC pipe as a "tapping block" to seat the new ones. Helps to lube the seal and the axle shaft before putting the new ones in. You might have to really dig in to get the old ones out, oh, and don't worry about wrecking them... you're replacing them anyway, right?!

I'll try it, maybe next weekend. THANKS!

[Kelly 1,028]

I've used a small screwdriver and punched it in around the outside of the seal and pulled it out, make sure you polish the axle shaft with sand paper or emery cloth and debur the slot where the key goes. You don't want to trash a new seal. I made a puller that is round with the bolt patern drilled in it and a nut welded in the middle and a grade 8 bolt to pull the hubs(there's one like it pictured on this site some where) but have still had to heat the s@#t out of them with a torch, others pulled off with my hands. and to pull the key I made a puller out of vise grips take the adjuster screw out and install a 18" piece of treaded rod I think it's 3/8" and I had a block of steel that weighs about 2lbs drilled a hole in the middle put it on the treaded rod install a washer or 2 and a nut now you have a slide hammer that will clamp on the key and pull it straight out instead of using a screwdriver to get it out. Good luck Kelly in MI.

[Banjo 0]

Thanks Kelly. :D

[Banjo 0]

Update today 1/26/08 on the 310-8 axle seal job.

This was one of those miracle days. You know, the job that goes perfect? It happens once every 50 years or so, This is the first time it's happened to me. LOL!

Figured I would "have a look" before making a plate for a hub puller. Figured I would check it out then head to the hardware store for the bolts and stuff.

The right side seal is leaking and I think the left side might be OK. So today, the job was to replace the right side seal.

Jacked up the tractor and pulled the right side wheel. Drained the gear oil for good measure and later installed new oil. First miracle was that the only allen head socket I had that fit a 3/8" drive ratchet actually fit the transmission drain plug. Not a big miracle, but a sign things are going good so far.

Now to the HUB. This was a "slider". It was loose on the axle already. Both axle bolts were tight though. I loosened the bolt that presses down on the axle key and the other bolt located 90 degrees away. In order to loosen the bolts, I first needed to loosen the holding nuts on each of them. They were tight too.

I pulled out both hub bolts and the hub pulled off the axle with ease, assisted by all that gear oil that had been leaking out of the transmission seal.

The previous owner had obviously had an issue with this loose hub so they, GET READY FOR THIS.... installed a piece of radiator hose around the axle with a hose clamp to keep the hub from moving in too far and hitting the transmission!!!

OK, removed the hose clamp and rubber and then had clear access to remove the old axle seal. I took an old small flat blade screwdriver and intentionally damaged part of the metal body of the seal being careful not to damage the axle bearing or the housing itself. Poked around with a few tools and finally found the exact right tool to easily remove the old seal... A 50 year old "nut pick"

Took some emery cloth and cleaned various things and paint from the entire axle as suggested. Thank You.

Applied some oil to the new seal and slid it on nicely. Wanted to use a piece of PVC pipe to tap the seal all the way into place but the 1" iron water pipe I had fit just perfect so I could not resist using it ( I KNOW, BE CAREFUL HERE!).

I placed a block of wood against the water pipe and carefully tapped the seal into place until I could "feel" it was bottomed out. PERFECT.

Then I did something I want your feedback on as well. With the new seal tapped all the way into place, there was enough room in the transmission housing to actually HOLD ANOTHER SEAL-LOL

So, being the fool I am, I figured that two seals should seal better than one! So I installed the other new seal I had as well. TWO seals on one axle.

What do you think about this? Other than being unnecessary, is there anything wrong with this? The second seal fits flush to the transmission housing.

Now on to the hub reinstallation. The key was a bit rough but all there. The axle keyway was fair. All of the original shape PLUS what I think was a bit of wallowing out on the counterclockwise side of the keyway from the hub being loose.

I reinstalled the hub and tightened both hub to axle bolts firmly, then I tightened the hold down nuts. I am hoping the previous owner did not realize he needed to have the hold down nuts loose before tightening the hold down bolts. I am also hoping the hub does not loosen up on ME. I plan to order a few new half moon axle hub keys for the future anyway.

The job is done and it could not have gone smoother. Let me know what you think about the "TWO seals on one side" idea. Was it a mistake? Will it last twice as long as one seal? LOL

Thanks again!

[refracman 166]

Putting 2 instead of one isnt a bad idea atall, after a few yrs the seal will rub a small grove in the axel and sometimes even with a new seal it will still seep because of the wear, on some of our eqiupment its standard to install 2 seals just in case.

[kpinnc 10,864]

Wheel Horse uses two seals back to back on the rear tiller axles, so it's not an unheard of practice. Sounds like there's merit to the idea, and it won't hurt a thing.

Looks like you beat me to it Steve!

Kevin

[Curmudgeon 28]

Doubling up the seals is something I've done, and recommend it, IF I remember to!!!! Funny you mention the tiller, that's where I got the idea. I think there the outer seal, even when shot, kinda keeps the worst of the abrasive dirt off the inner one so it can still function properly. The rear axle isn't near as hostile an environment, but hey, if two heads is better than one, so are two seals better than one. Right?

Lucky you found the hose. I've found washers piled up. Guess what, they turned with the axle/hub and had the entire lip for the seal wore off. Removed the washers and there was the bearing, flush with the surface. That's now my "parts" transaxle, and yup, it has a few parts missing now.

[Banjo 0]

In the photo below, you can see the "nut pick" I used to grab the old seal and pull it out. The old seal is also in the photo.

In the photo below you can see the new seal installed with a green color around it. I actually installed two seals on each axle, so you are looking at the outside of the two seals.

My hub was REAL loose and slid right off. Notice the counterclockwise side of the axle keyway is a bit wallowed out. I installed a new axle key and everything tightened up good for now.

Just to be sure the hub would not move IN if it loosens up again, I installed a collar as seen in the pic below on the inside of the hub.

[Banjo 0]

Notice the grease all over my transmission case. Do you think that could be ONLY from the single axle seal I had leaking?

[Rollerman 290]

You may want to check the seal behind the drive pulley too.

Or the PO maybe didn't have a funnel for adding oil to the trans case? :thumbs: