Philipp

installing an electric lift

36 posts in this topic

The actuator is indeed a Warner K2G20-12V-BR-04.

Don't confuse it with a k2xg20. The x means it is equiped with ball bearings, the k2g has an acme screw. The k2xg is faster and has a force of 9800N instead of 5400 N.

But it's also larger and I prefer that the actuator slips instead of something that breaks on the tractor.

The one I have has exactly the same dimensions (yeah, I know, except the stroke) as the original one. I presume the original one is also an acme screw.

Here is were I found mine:

http://www.stemin.nl/nl/producten/Actuators/

The only reason why I did this was to get some downpressure on my blade. I just sorted out the bigger pulley and it works now (Thank you guys, it was indead the 'wirebeltguide').

So now I am going to fabricate a solid link to put the actuator to the test.

Do you guys use a nut and bolt or a rod with a hairpin?

Now the bracket:

With a 2 cylinder engine, you can only have the 2" stroke. You can look for an ESL or something like that, or with a dead man limit switch, see Mike and Chuck.

This stroke will be enough to lift a mowerdeck etc, but as I demonstrated a time ago, it isn't enough...

With a single Kohler you have more possibilites. You can do as above or fabricate one that I have. If you want some plans I will make them...

You can see that the original bracket is sloping to fit the 2 cylinders...

I used a thicker iron, 8mm instead of 6mm, because I placed the actuator higher and the bracket can't be that wide as the original.

But this isn't the only thing: You also have to:

-cut a piece of the rockshaft lever

-fold a piece of the dash(the actuator is placed higher)

-If you have a tiller, the old cable will be too short.

-The bellcrank is just touching the sheetmetal in fully down position, so you will have to cut the bell crank as well.

-the chain of the T-bar is too short in fully raised, so buy a new chain.

-I don't know what is behind the dash of the 3,4,500 series, but the bellcrank on mine is just not touching the ammeter in fully raised position.

But I think it's better to have more stroke. I will hopefully have made the solid link, and I will give you some pics to show you that it's worth it.

OR

Be patient and buy one on ebay...

I did an offer and I had one a fully original woth wiring and even the side panel, if the seller didn't refused to ship to Belgium :ychain:

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By the way, it's PHILIPP not Philip, everyone spells my name always wrong... :ychain: :D

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As promised some pics and vids:

DSC02799.jpg

My wheelweights bought from landsurveyor:

DSC02800.jpg

15 cm ground clearence:

DSC02805.jpg

the front wheels up:

DSC02801.jpg

DSC02804.jpg

A video that shows the downpressure

th_MOV02807.jpg

and a video of the tractor lifting me.

th_MOV02808.jpg

Now I only need to make a side panel :ychain:

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By the way, it's PHILIPP not Philip, everyone spells my name always wrong... :ychain:

My apologies. I'll be more careful in the future

...if the seller didn't refused to ship to Belgium

My grandfather and grandmother were both from Belgium. Somewhere near a town named Wingene.

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The actuator is indeed a Warner K2G20-12V-BR-04.

.

.

.

But I think it's better to have more stroke.:

Your supplier probably did not mention this to you (from the spec sheet)

Now Available Optional Adjustable Limit Switch These easy to

use adjustable switches are mounted in a channel on the cover tube

with custom cap for protection. They are easily moved to enable the

end-user the flexibility of setting the stroke length at any position within

the full stroke capability. Just pop the cap off, loosen the set screw

and slide the switch into the desired position.

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waer are you found the wheel wheits ???????????

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Hey all..get me some basic drawings and i will create a 3D solid model for machining the brackets. Then let ya know how much time and money it would take to make Them. 

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Instead of adding micro switches can you make the arm's on the fulcrum a little longer, if you have the room. From the pictures it

looks like you could remount the stationary end about 1" back, that would get you the extra lift you want and eliminate the clearance problem.

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