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dgjks6

Let the restoration begin

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After a gew days of research I think it is going to cost at least $400 (with a new muffler) to get this thing running.

Not sure if I want to invest this just for the experience. I am considering getting something to pull the 48 inch deck I have.

Any engine recommendations?

Ever consider a diesel? I've seen a few on here that look pretty nice.

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DG, before long yer gonna have a $1000 in this old 8hp mower an still not be done with it.

Part it out an go buy you something that is nice, an already done or dang close to it.

Ronnie :thumbs:

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The thought does cross my mind on a daily basis to sell all the wheel horse stuff and buy a zero turn mower. Could mow the lawn in half the time with better results and park all the cars in the garage. Or sell it all and go back to a lawn service and never have to think about it again.

But, it is the jouney that I am enjoying. I have spent a lot more for a lot less entertainment in the past.

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By all means Greg, stick it out. You have a nice following on this thread. A lot of us are enjoying the journey with you. Besides, if you sold it and went with the zero turn or the lawn service, you'd be bored. :thumbs:

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I'M BACK!

And now I have a plan. After seeing JimD's c-85 up and running I got the bug to get to work again. Its been 5 months since I touched it, but now I have a plan. I purchased a 416-8, dropped it, and now it makes a funny noise - that I have finally determined is from inside the engine. I am going to take it apart, but I am going to practice on the k181 from the c-85.

Luckily I don't have to answer the question - why does a guy who only needs one tractor have to have three. If you are reading this post you already know.

The c-85 if going to get a rebuild of the k181 now that I acquired a 416-8. I am going to use the transmission forn the 312-8 that I rebuilt. I have to. I put so much time and effort into it.

For the tires - the 416 came with 23x8.5's. I am going to put these on the c-85. Not that I will ever use the tractor, but if all plans work I will put a 36 inch deck on it anda 37 inch blower in the winter. The 23x10.5's I have are wider than 37 inches when installed.

I started a link under the engine section for help on the engine.

So here I am going to update costs:

Tools: np change at $208

Disposables: no change at $65

K181 rebuild kit - $86 - for a new total of $425

Oh - and if anyone cares it is day #188

JimD - you beat me. I admit defeat. unless the contest was who could be the slowest - then I win.

Sorry to bore everyone, but I got the itch to work on it and no parts yet, so here I am posting again.

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Greg, I didn't think it was a contest, and if you get your k181 done you still win. I haven't touched mine yet. Remember, I took the easy way out and swapped engines. I'll be following this closely so I can work up the guts to tackle mine. Are ya done yet? :ychain:

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Now that I am committed I am doing more research. I fianlly looked at the serial number the tractor is actually a 1981 c-81.

Someone must have put new decals on.

The machine had 3000 hours on the meter and everything so far has been well taken care of. The original trans had good looking fluid, and every bolt I take out I can tell has been out before. No rust, and several layers of paint.

I think the original owner took good care of it and then sold it to someone who never looked at the oil and the engine blew.

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That is a misprint. It is like that on a couple different sources. Your's is a C-85. The C-81 would have a flat style hood with rectangle decals. Also, The VIN for a C-81 will start with a 81- or 91-...making it a 1978 or 1979. Also, you have the 2nd design plastic fender, which started in 1980. Yours is definitely a C-85.

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I for one, really hope you don't stop. I'm learning a lot sitting here watching your progress, so please, keep on keepin' on. Besides, you're only six months into it so far, you just got started. LOL. :ychain:

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Day #189

Time for updates. Got the engine completely apart. It was hard to figure out how to get the valves out of the block without a valve tool. I was able to get one out, but no way to put them back so I ordered a valve compression tool ($23) and also a ring tool for the piston rings ($5). Now I am looking for an afforcable ring compressor tool.

Also got a new dash plate - the old one was missing a few pieces ($10)

And the best part. The rebuild kit arrived. Not sure what I am going to do with the piston. New one, the .010 over, measures 2.917. The old oneis not remotely round and measured 2.904-2.914. I really don't have a way to measure the inside of the cylinder correctly, but it looks smooth with one spot of rust inside.

The rod is stens - and actually seems to be as sturdy as the broken one.

I can't wait to actually start the rebuild.

costs:

Tools - $233

Parts - $435

Disposables - $65

I spent the day polishing engine parts. Will keep the updates going as long as I am working.

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Sounds like you got your second wind. Good luck.

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Looks good Greg! :ychain: You have an eYe for Detail, and the main thing is your doing it right! :D

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Day #191

Daily blog update.

So first a story. I bought a digitial caliper, but not sure I trust it. I have an old Vermier caliper from a ma hwo was a machinist that is supposed to be just as accuate and I wanted to learn how to use it. I spent the day on the internet reading about them trying to figure it out. I must be getting old because I could not figure it out. My daughter, the straight A math and science wiz could not figure it out either. So there I was trying to figure it out and getting frustrated, when my son, the sometimes brilliant but always lazy carrier of my genes and my name asked what I was doing. I explained it to him and he bet me he could figure it out. I bet him a new snowboard against his being my gofer for the rest of the rebuild that he could not figure it out.

10 minutes later he figured it out and exlpained it to me. I owe him a new board, but it was worth it to see a flash of brilliance. But it pains me to realize that all of his mediocre grades are do to lack of effort.

Anyway the engine build is going slow - that blog is here in the engine section. Found a guy to take care of the boring of the cylinder and the turning of the rod, but it will take a couple weeks.

Bought some new parts and tools:

used cam (third one) for $16

extra crank for $19

ring compressor for $12 (thanks JimD - saved me $, I was going to spend $32 on another one)

so totals are:

tools $245

parts $470

disposables $65

The financial damage does not seem to bad at $10-$20 a pop, but it adds up quickly.

I am going to start disassembling the tractor and taking the pieces to the warm basement for work and painting. This should keep me occupoed for he next two weeks while the engine is getting worked on, and I should have it back for my week of vacation after christmas.

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I got the tools to rebuild the engine today. Just waiting for the machining to be done and the new cam to arrive.

OK - so this is how its gonna go from here on out. I am going to try to take something off the tractor, not be able to do it. Post a pic here, and someone with more knowledge than myself will tell me how to do it. I am going to try this approach -

1-to document what I did so I can put it back together

2-so hopefully I won't break too many parts.

So far I have the engine off, tranmission off, hood off, and footboards off. All the parts are in a big bix and not well organized - so I'll figure those out later. At this point I am going to take a piece off, clean it, document the process, and move to the next piece.

I had 30 minutes to kill before I left for work tonight so since the engine is in the shop I thought I would get started.

I tried to take the front PTO/hood mount off. Took off these three bolts:

DSCF6181.jpg

And then ran into trouble. The steering mechanism goes through this piece. Before I break something, is this a c clip I just pry off or do I have to do some disassembly from the back?

DSCF6184.jpg

So instead of going from the bottom up I decided to go from the top down and take off the sterring wheel. I tried to punch out the pin with a punch, and no luck.

How do you get this pin out?

DSCF6187.jpg

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Yes, you take the "E" clip off and then it should come off. For the roll pin, you need to soak it for awhile, then the best punch to use is a roll pin punch. Same size as hole...that is the trick...

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Check the pulley off this list. And add $26 more dollars to the budget. Now just need a fender.

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Greg, that pan won't work. You need one from a 400 or 500 series tractor, with the hole for the gas tank fill in it. I sent you a link in a PM to one one ebay. It's nice but a bit pricey, however they do come up often. I got a great buy on one for my C85 after looking for awhile. You also might want to PM Kelly, he has just about everything. If you find one that needs stripping, a wire wheel on an angle grinder works well. Wear an apron while doing that. Those wires do fly off and get stuck in the oddest places. :ychain:

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quote "Wear an apron while doing that. Those wires do fly off and get stuck in the oddest places :ychain: "

Truer words were never spoken....you defineately want to wear safety glasses too, they are a must!

John

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Day #195

bought a pulley ($26) and set of roll pin punches ($20)

Totals are

Tools: $265

Parts: $496

Disposables: $65

The goosd news is that I have all the pieces now except a fender, and the only other thing I have to pay for is the cost of the block and crank being done.

The bad news is that I consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined, but I don't feel like it now.

Case in point - after two easy questions I have made little progess, and have more questions. I decided not to take off the e clip - it looks like if I do the front axle may fall off and cause lots of problems.

So I got the pin out of the steering wheel with some PB Blaster and the correct punch.

So how do I get the steering wheel off? Its plastic and I am afraid to hit it.

Also, any advice for disassembly order would be appreciated.

Greg

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I got the tools to rebuild the engine today. Just waiting for the machining to be done and the new cam to arrive.

OK - so this is how its gonna go from here on out. I am going to try to take something off the tractor, not be able to do it. Post a pic here, and someone with more knowledge than myself will tell me how to do it. I am going to try this approach -

1-to document what I did so I can put it back together

2-so hopefully I won't break too many parts.

So far I have the engine off, tranmission off, hood off, and footboards off. All the parts are in a big bix and not well organized - so I'll figure those out later. At this point I am going to take a piece off, clean it, document the process, and move to the next piece.

I had 30 minutes to kill before I left for work tonight so since the engine is in the shop I thought I would get started.

I tried to take the front PTO/hood mount off. Took off these three bolts:

DSCF6181.jpg

And then ran into trouble. The steering mechanism goes through this piece. Before I break something, is this a c clip I just pry off or do I have to do some disassembly from the back?

DSCF6184.jpg

So instead of going from the bottom up I decided to go from the top down and take off the sterring wheel. I tried to punch out the pin with a punch, and no luck.

How do you get this pin out?

DSCF6187.jpg

Greg, if you remove the clip in the second pic the hood mount will come off. The pin won't come out because there's a bolt holding it in from the back side. There's an arm welded on the back side of the pin, and the bolt is above the pin. If you want, you can remove the axle by taking the bolt out and removing the pin after you unhook the tie rods from the axle. The pin you see is not the steering shaft.

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Day #195

bought a pulley ($26) and set of roll pin punches ($20)

Totals are

Tools: $265

Parts: $496

Disposables: $65

The goosd news is that I have all the pieces now except a fender, and the only other thing I have to pay for is the cost of the block and crank being done.

The bad news is that I consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined, but I don't feel like it now.

Case in point - after two easy questions I have made little progess, and have more questions. I decided not to take off the e clip - it looks like if I do the front axle may fall off and cause lots of problems.

So I got the pin out of the steering wheel with some PB Blaster and the correct punch.

So how do I get the steering wheel off? Its plastic and I am afraid to hit it.

Also, any advice for disassembly order would be appreciated.

Greg

Now that you have the pin out, this is how I removed my steering wheel. Sitting on the tractor, I placed my knees under the steering wheel and alternately lifted from side to side while turning the wheel slightly. Be careful doing this, you can crack the plastic around the hub if you go too hard or too fast. The end result was the steering wheel came off and I had two sore knees. :D Thai diagram may help you with the rest of the dis-assembly. Let us know if you need more info, and I hope this helps. You're almost there. :ychain:

C85steeringdiagram.gif

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