Grader blade build

[combatmp29r 27]

Greg, yes I do. I was looking at how weak that edge was today when I took the pics. I have a piece of 1/8" x 1/2" flat stock that I'm going to weld at a 90deg angle to the top edge. that should stiffen it right up. The first one I built with an old bolens blade and it had the curved angle iron supports like the WH front blades have. I just welded andgle between them on it. :thumbs:

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Joel,

Looking nice. I think adding gussets to the blade mount is a very good idea. And adding reinforcement to the blade is good idea also.

On the 1" bolt diameter, the shank on a 1" bolt has a major diameter of over 1 inch and it depends on the thread size, i.e. UNC or UNF or ACME thread or NPT, etc. It's good to have a design hand book at your disposal at work. :thumbs:

[wse100 0]

combat,

That blade looks great, i see you you made a "clean cut" cutting the blade in half...did you use a plasma cutter?

I love the plasma...So clean & not molten hot. :thumbs:

[Greg B. 1]

Here's one for the engineering types, in here. For the type of blade illustrated in this thread, what is the optimal, fore and aft, location of the cutting edge? Should it be centered on the wheelbase or closer to the rear wheels? It's difficlt to tell just from Photos.

Greg B.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

From a grading/geometry perspective you want the cutting edge half-way between the center line (from axle to ground) of the two sets of wheels.

The single biggest advantage of a mid-mount grader blade is that you automatically flatten the peaks and fill the valleys. This assumes of course you goal is to level!

That said, a couple of inches either way doesn't seem likely to make a difference.

Nice work :thumbs:

[Greg B. 1]

WHoc,

Thanks. That's what common sense would dictate, but I've spent enough time in R&D to know that human logic can be wrong.....

Greg B.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

Here's one for the engineering types, in here. For the type of blade illustrated in this thread, what is the optimal, fore and aft, location of the cutting edge? Should it be centered on the wheelbase or closer to the rear wheels? It's difficlt to tell just from Photos.

Greg B.

Greg,

I built mine so when it was at full angle, the end of the blade had a few inches of clearance at the rear tire.

Here's a LINK to my pictures of when I pulled mine apart so Joel would have something visual to work from.

[combatmp29r 27]

On the 1" bolt diameter, the shank on a 1" bolt has a major diameter of over 1 inch and it depends on the thread size, i.e. UNC or UNF or ACME thread or NPT, etc. It's good to have a design hand book at your disposal at work.

JD where the H#$% were you when I bought the bolt??

I couldn't bring myself to spend $25 at TSC for a 3' piece of 1" round bar when I only needed 6". Bolt looked like a good choice at the time

WSE100 Nope no plasma yet Next on the toy list though. This one was done by the old handy dandy sawzall and a box tube straightedge

TT thanks for the extra pic backup. I meant to add that link with the dimension one at the beginning. My sometimers was qacting up that day I think :P

[catman81056 3]

Joel thats a nice looking blade, you're doing a super job starting from scratch.

When I saw the pics of Terrys blade I thought it was an original WH blade. I think yours will be every bit as nice :thumbs:

[Kelly 1,028]

Looks very nice, alot cheaper than a WH grader blade even if you have to buy the 1" bar stock

[combatmp29r 27]

Thanks Tim and Kelly,

Well tonight consisted of mostly honey do list stuff Gotta keep Nan happy though or no shop time

I did however take about 1/2 hour and hillbilly machine the bolt down to work as the mounting pin. I started with the bench grinder and used to tool rest as a guide as I slowly turned the bolt and worked across the length like you would with a lathe. Then I sprayed the bolt with layout dye and hand filed it untill all the blue was gone and it had a uniform look to it. Works like a charm now

Oh and note to self. Maybe lathe should go ahead of plasma cutter on the toy want list :thumbs:

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Sorry, Joel. I didn't know you were "sizing" one. Too bad I don't have another copy of my "Design Handbook" lying around. But there are some good ones, if not better ones, out there. :thumbs:

[Greg B. 1]

Thanks, TT

Greg B.

[perry 82]

great job joel .

first time i had a chance to look at your progress. i could always use another one also ............. :D

[combatmp29r 27]

I guess I'll let it slide this time Terry (JD)

Thanks Perry. You know I just picked up a couple sears build your own blade kits

No new progress today. I worked this morn, and Spent the afternoon at Gregs. Well afternoon/evening Yep probably sleeping with the horses tonight :P

[Nick 13]

Joel, The blade is looking good. Not much left now but to finish up and post those first test run pictures. I have not done a thing to my blade since I posted the pictures. Guess there are to many projects and not much progress.

Nick in ohio

[combatmp29r 27]

Chapter 2 page.......................Uh oh yeah 3

I added a piece of 1/2x1/2x1/8" angle across the top of the blade for support. I also added the gussets to the blade mount.

Now I just have to make the lift rod mounting block, the rod itself, and the angle adjustment lever. Should be done tomorrow :thumbs:

[combatmp29r 27]

Forgot to add these earlier, so chapter 2 page 3 foot notes

Here is the machined blade mounting pin, and a couple pics of it on the V18 mock up chassis. That way Greg can see how the blade placement is. I'll try to get pics on a horizontal tomorrow.

[Stigian 1,234]

Nice work Joel, the blade looks much stronger with the added metal

Cant wait to see the blade in action video :D

[kj4kicks 151]

Nice work Joel ! That looks much stronger than the OEM blades.

[Greg B. 1]

Good looking job, Joel, it looks a lot stronger and thanks for the side shot.

Greg B.

[Rollerman 290]

Looks great Joel!

Whats left the mechanism to lock it in at an angle & paint?

[combatmp29r 27]

Today was a rainy nasty day here so I spent it with the kids playing and watching Drag racing Tried to watch the nascar race but got vetoed for Dumbo

Here are the horizontal pics on a C160 auto

And after looking at the pics I had to go back out and look at the tractor (didn't look like it much room to lift the blade) With the front tires flat, rear tires low, and the front end up hill on the concrete the blade is actually about 2 1/2-3" up off level ground. Guess I should have got out the compressor and rolled the C back some first

Tommorow should bring the lock lever and the first action photos I Hope

Eldon , and Ian, yes it is heavier than a stock one, but I never seem to use anything exactly how it was intended anyhow

Greg, your welcome, and I hope these pics help some too.

Stephen, Yes that is all that is left to do. :D

[Greg B. 1]

Thanks again, Joel. There's no such thing as too much information.

Greg B.

[Kelly 1,028]

Again very nice job, very pro. looking :thumbs: