Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Dave M

Ignition Module

Recommended Posts

Dave M

In the process of rebuilding my Kohler M16, I have found that the spark plug wire was once a tasty meal for the dead mouse I found under the engine tin. He/she chewed the insulation right down to the bare wire exposing a couple of inches of it. Prior to passing, the mouse had made a nice little home for itself. The HT wire looks to be an integral part of the ignition module. Is there a way to separate the wire from the module and just replace the wire, or am I in for a whole new ignition module assembly?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rickv1957

Dave,I replaced a module a while back,44.00 which didnt seem to bad,Rick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dave M

Thanks, Rick. And you're right, the module isn't priced out of sight. I think an aftermarket one is available from NAPA for even less, maybe around 30 bucks. But, it just seems like something that should be repairable (kinda like the "idiot" light module that some of the guys are rebuilding instead of dropping a $100 + on a new one). I just thought maybe somebody had been down this road and found a way to replace just the wire. I see a lot of innovated practices put to use on this forum. Thanks again. BTW, I really admire your collection. You have to be the "Jay Leno" of Wheel Horses. Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

If the copper core is still OK you could use a combination of friction tape(better insulator than electrical tape) and liquid electrical tape to repair it. I would start with the friction tape then coat it with the liquid electrical tape ((Lowe's Home depot). And then do another layer of each.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Save Old Iron

Dave M,

I started a similar project a few weeks back - you might want to try to beat me to the finish line. Give it a try. I just had other more pressing household issues to contend with over the last few weeks.

I'll update everyone in the next few days after a trip to NAPA for solid wire.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=13073

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dave M

Chuck, I just read your thread on the plug wire and it looks like you're on the case. Like you, I would just prefer to replace the entire old wire since it's 20+ years old. But before I spend $26 on a wire kit, I'll just buy a new ignition module assembly. As far as beating you to the punch on the repair, I kinda doubt it. I'm working in an unheated shop, the temp around here just dropped into the teens, and I've got a motor torn down to little more than the bare block. So, I've got some assembly to do before the plug wire/module comes into the picture. Of course, I could always bring the ignition module into the kitchen. I wonder if my wife would mind if I just put the whole motor back together in the house? Thanks for everybody's input. Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Save Old Iron

Dave,

you have given me the encouragement to finish this project this weekend. My plan is not to yank out the remaining lead but maybe to lightly belt sand a line down the side of the "bulge" housing the lead and remove it with a more controlled "yank" :notworthy:

I'll update you this weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dave M

Save-old-Iron--I used a dremel and finally a drill and bit about the same size as the plug wire and cleaned this rascal out down inside the module. What I found after I cleaned out the remaing plug wire insulation and debris with a dental type pick was a stiff wire sticking up in the bottom of the hole the plug wire goes into. It looks like the plug wire just pushes down onto this wire and then they epoxy it in place. I'm not sure what type of epoxy is used since it's prone to vibration and heat. And, there's probably more to it than simply pushing a plug wire over this lead when it's manufactured. Anyway, it might be worth a shot to try and repair, since I'm this far along with it. Just thought I'd let you know where I was with the repair.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WheelHorse_of_course

Save-old-Iron--I used a dremel and finally a drill and bit about the same size as the plug wire and cleaned this rascal out down inside the module. What I found after I cleaned out the remaing plug wire insulation and debris with a dental type pick was a stiff wire sticking up in the bottom of the hole the plug wire goes into. It looks like the plug wire just pushes down onto this wire and then they epoxy it in place. I'm not sure what type of epoxy is used since it's prone to vibration and heat. And, there's probably more to it than simply pushing a plug wire over this lead when it's manufactured. Anyway, it might be worth a shot to try and repair, since I'm this far along with it. Just thought I'd let you know where I was with the repair.

RTV Silicon sealer is a very good insulator. That is what I would use.

Good job on the "yankee ingenuity" - why buy when you can fix!! :notworthy:

:WRS: :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dave M

Does the RTV sealer harden? Because something has to hold the plug wire into place under heat and vibration conditions. As far as yankee ingenuity....we'll see.

Thanks for the tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rustbucket

I dont know how many here might do this but on certain wires if all thats wrong is pealed insulation and such ive used a can of liquid electrical tape i picked up from walmart back in the automotive secton. seems to work good enough on several of my tractors so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WheelHorse_of_course

Does the RTV sealer harden? Because something has to hold the plug wire into place under heat and vibration conditions. As far as yankee ingenuity....we'll see.

Thanks for the tip.

You are correct that rtv silicon does not "harden". But it is quite strong, though it does allow "springy" movement. I suppose maybe that would eventually allow the wire to break...

Personally, I would use it since it forms a water tight seal and is an extremely good insulator.

My second choice would be epoxy.

:thumbs: :notworthy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WheelHorse_of_course

Ah yes, Liquid Electric tape. I have been out of that for a decade or two.

Good stuff, but don't get it on your clothes!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Save Old Iron

Dave M,

figured you would beat me to the punch.

I must be cold blooded - I really start moving slow in these single digit temps we have seen in the last few days.

I'll crank up the kerosene heater this weekend in the shop and have at my coil.

Pics to follow on my original post.

:notworthy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dave M

It's cold here, too, but not single digits....yet. And anyway, I did most of the disassembly in the kitchen. Sorry I have no pictures. Still trying to figure that out without using a third party like photobucket. And, I'm still a ways away from having a "fixed" usable ignition module. Watch out for the fumes on that kero-heater. Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...