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Duff

Bearing cross-reference chart

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Since I'm now committed to a tranny tear-down (312-8), it would seem smart to replace any bushings or bearings that even appear to be suspect. This tranny had water in it when I got it, so the chances that some of the bearings have gone south are pretty good.

I've looked through a number of old posts here using the search features but didn't find much about alternate bearings to those that are Toro/WH OEM. Is there a chart or good source of info somewhere about this, or has anyone worked up a short list of the Torrington numbers?

To redo all the bearings, bushings and seals in the tranny with Toro parts even from another parts supplier is about $200.00. I just don't have that kind of spare cash these days..... :thumbs:

Thanks! :thumbs2:

Duff

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I have always used a set of calipers to measure bearings when it comes to replacing something with a useless number.

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Since I'm now committed to a tranny tear-down (312-8), it would seem smart to replace any bushings or bearings that even appear to be suspect. This tranny had water in it when I got it, so the chances that some of the bearings have gone south are pretty good.

I've looked through a number of old posts here using the search features but didn't find much about alternate bearings to those that are Toro/WH OEM.

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Thanks for the info and tips, Mike and Andy! :thumbs:

I already knew how to make my own gaskets, so now I guess it's time I get off me dead arse and learn how to use a micrometer caliper. Fortunately I can borrow one from the school I work at and they'll hopefully teach me how to use it. :ychain:

When I finish this project, I'll post a list for folks who may have to tear down an 8-speed.

Thanks again!

Duff :thumbs2:

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Good luck with your tear down duff,its not to hard to do if you pay attention,take pics,and refer to the parts breakdown,when i get bearings i take the old one to the bearing shop and they will measure them for me,as long as they are still intact.The hardest thing in the tranny is getting the detent spring and ball bearing back in when you put it together.I highly recomend buying exrta detent balls,because i spent 2 days looking for one when it sprang out on me :thumbs2::thumbs: The toro part number is3517

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Useage Noun Toro Part# Other Brand Other #

Differential Bearing Ball Bearing 1.5"ID 1533 S.O.L.

1-1/8" Axle Needle Bearing 9416 Torrington B-1816

Axle 1 " 1528 B-1616

Brake Shaft (old 1") 1530 B-1612

Brake Closed end 1" 1532 M-16121

Brake Shaft new 3/4 1523 B-1212

Brake Closed end 3/4" 1529 M-12121

Input open 5/8 1508 B-1012

Input Closed end 1531 M-10121

Tiller shaft Bearing 6838 B-2016

Tiller Intermediate shaft 1532 M-16121

Tiller Input Closed 1429 M-12121

Tiller input open 1540 B-128

Seals

3/4 " Brake Shaft 100441 C/R 7410

1" Axle -Old Brake Shaft 1232 C/R 9815

5/8 (.625) Input Shaft 100442 C/R 6105

1-1/8" Axle 100443 C/R 11050

Tiller Shaft 103118 C/R 12330

Sorry about formatting I pasted this from a Excel SS

Seal numbers are for Chicago Rawhide (now SKF)

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Paul,

I took your info, reformatted a little and posted a download-able copy in PDF format. Hope you don't mind. If you'd like, PM me and we can discuss. This would be a fantastic resource to the community and adding to this and keeping it up to date would be a huge plus for those to follow. I'd like to help you with this if I can.

Wheelhorse Seal and Bearing Cross Reference (PDF)

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FWIW I just did a 4 spd uni-drive for my "500" Special.

All the bearings, (except the 2 gold rollers on the diff) were around $80 from Motion Industries, $16 for seals from NAPA.

Dont bother making the gasket, they are $3.60 from your Toro dealer...

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Paul and Mike, you guys are the best! :thumbs2:

Don, thanks for the tip about the flying balls...er....maybe I should rephrase that? :thumbs:

Thanks, guys! :ROTF:

Duff :ychain:

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I got 1 1/8" axle seals 100443 from Advance Auto Parts next day order the part no. "National 340835" the box also had"Moog and Federal Mogul" on it. I gave them the SKF

no. and they cross referenced it.

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This may well be a dumb a** question, but it's how I learn things. :ychain:

I ran some of the Torrington numbers from the bearing chart through the Motion Industries search engine and found that often two bearings come up - one with the regular number, and one with the suffix "oh", which I take to mean "oil hole". What is this "oil hole" thingy, and is it better to order the bearing with or without it?

Thanks for your patience! :thumbs:

Duff :thumbs2:

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I'm guessing here, Duff, but its probably a bearing with a hole in the cage in order to feed oil to the bearing from an oil gallery.

I've never seen one, I've only ever bought the plain ones (which are whats in your box right now), but I would think that you could use the ones with the hole if you had to...

You can also get Torrington bearings with no seals, seals one end only and seals at both ends. I forget what the suffixes are for these options. OEM gearbox bearings have no seals, and thats what I go for. I think the seal is more for keeping dirt out of the bearing, than keeping oil in the gearbox. In this application I would prefer no seal as you need to let the transmission lube get into the bearing.

I've always just ordered the straight up, no frills part number for the bearing.

Hope this helps.

Mike

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Helps a lot! Thanks, Mike!

Duff :thumbs2:

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Paul,

I took your info, reformatted a little and posted a download-able copy in PDF format. Hope you don't mind. If you'd like, PM me and we can discuss. This would be a fantastic resource to the community and adding to this and keeping it up to date would be a huge plus for those to follow. I'd like to help you with this if I can.

Wheelhorse Seal and Bearing Cross Reference (PDF)

Mike thanks for the bearing cross refrence! :hide: I leached it real good! :scratchead: :ychain:

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Some good info here guys. As Im going to rebuild one myself, I will use the chart Mike made(Thanks Mike).

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I don't know if this should be a "correction" or additional information, but on Mike's bearing chart the number for the bearing on the 5/8" input shaft open should be WH 1542, crossing to Torrington B-107.

The B-1012 bearing listed (WH 1508) has the right ID and OD but is too long and protrudes into the tranny case where it interferes with one of the gears if you seat it enough to allow for an oil seal on the outside.

This is for the 8-speed trannies with the 1" axles used in the 300-series machines, BTW. It may be the same for the 1-1/8" axles trannies in the 400's as well, but I don't have experience with those (yet!).

Duff :scratchead:

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When rebuilding my transmission I sourced my bearings from these guys:

Akron Bearing

They were very easy to deal with and actually found me some caged needle bearings instead of the original not caged design.

Hope it can help you guys.

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I don't know if this should be a "correction" or additional information, but on Mike's bearing chart the number for the bearing on the 5/8" input shaft open should be WH 1542, crossing to Torrington B-107.

The B-1012 bearing listed (WH 1508) has the right ID and OD but is too long and protrudes into the tranny case where it interferes with one of the gears if you seat it enough to allow for an oil seal on the outside.

This is for the 8-speed trannies with the 1" axles used in the 300-series machines, BTW. It may be the same for the 1-1/8" axles trannies in the 400's as well, but I don't have experience with those (yet!).

Duff

Does anyone know if this is right with the 1 1/8 axle trans??

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Grainger should have an online catlog you could look up the bearings up and explains about seals and usually seals on a bearing are used to keep grease in a prelubed bearing in

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The input shaft bearing wh pt #1508 which crosses to B-1012 is not correct for the 1 1/8 axle trans. The new number should be B-107. At least thats the number on the bearing i pulled out of my trans.

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Thanks to everyone for the input & trans information , saves alot of leg work.

I Have a Story to share, today a guy came into my store and told me about an old wheelhorse He had seen in an barn about 6-7 years ago. i went and talked to the family that owned the property for permission to go look at it.

Well... the farm has been abandon for about 15 years, owners live out of state.

after cutting my way though about 300 feet of brush and weeds i found what use to be a barn. only half was still standing. After digging out a few rotten boards and

logs, i see what looks like an old WH tractor.

it is a Raider 10, the barn had rotted and decomposed around it. Deck rusted away, rat nest in the Koler 10 hp, weeds growing in the seat, overall rusted pretty bad. I am going to try to get it anyway and try to salvage what i can.... :D

The family member i talked with said, "you might just put a battery in and drive it out" boy is his memory bad... it has been there about 12 years rusting away.

i have looked far & wide for a good trans. i cuold put back in my Raider 12 and get it going quick, and this one is only about 3 miles from my house.

if i get it i will update. :thumbs:

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This may be old news to some, but the C/R (Chicago Rawhide) numbers for seals are now SKF Sealing Solutions numbers (SKF bought out Chicago Rawhide). If you are doing a parts lookup at Motion Industries, enter only the numbers without the CR prefix, and set the manufacturer field in the drop-down to "SKF Sealing Solutions."

~Duff :thumbs:

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