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Mounted the grader blade on the C195 yesterday. it works good in the back driveway for gravel.

If you are a Marine you know what today is. On your person you see a stamp of two yellow footprints with the inscription "Property of USMC" Born on 10 November, 1775. This is the day every Marine was made. So here to you and are Corps Happy Birthday.

One of the biggest points of wear are those front steering spindles . I've rebuilt many front axles and it's the same issue every time - the bottom section of the spindle never receives enough grease to go all the way around the shank and it becomes galled over time . Dealing with my D series right now which also uses roller thrust bearings . One is so bad it galled the destroyed bearing onto the spindle so it must be replaced . Most front axles at minimum have to be bored and sleeved with bronze sleeve bearings which can be a pain and gets expensive . My advice - spend an extra minute or two and jack up the front axle to take the weight off those spindles , then grease and cycle the steering with it unloaded . Be careful to avoid putting the jack on the grease zerk that feeds the axle center pin . Best way is to pick it up by the frame with a spreader beam fitted to the jack so the weight is off that center pin as well . I dealt with heavy equipment and trucks for years replacing spring bushings and kin pins - you could tell which ones were jacked up before greasing since they lasted far longer before any wear developed . Sarge

I am getting out of the changing implements business. This C120 (formerly C160) is now permanently married to a 50In midmount. added ag tires and weights she should do well at grading. and for the 2-3 hours use a year she should last a long time. The Elcectro 12 in the back ground will be permanent backup plow tractor.

Ok, there is no way that I'm the first guy to do this. I was looking for a replacement for my destroyed steering wheel. The options to fit the shaft were few and I thought a bit expensive. Thinking back to when I raced dirt track, I had a brain storm. Or a slight drizzle. A steering wheel quick connect is a 3/4" shaft. $25 for the quick connect and $32 for a Grant classic wheel. No modification made to the shaft. I drilled a hole in the coupler for a roll pin. I might rig a spot weld on it. Cool thing is if the wheel is in the way while doing maintenance, it takes half a second to rip it off. Mark.

My wife and I spent the day at "Flywheeler Park" at Avon Park Florida, Got to hang out with old friends and saw some neat stuff; enjoy. This is a "Fromall" which was built with parts From All Sorts of Stuff !

Old age starting to get me. An excellent excuse to have more Horses! 1 or 2 for mowin'. 2 for snow removal. 3 or 4 for grandsons; wagon rides, leaf sweeping, races, rolling the lawns. 2 automatics for granddaughters, mailbox runs and keeping tabs on the boys. Simple enough.

Looks and bet it is an excellent implement. I use my Allis-Chamers blade on my stone 'n millings driveways.

mmmmmdonuts very good advice but be carefull about the amount of grease you put into the pto bearings, too much and it will creep out and get on the friction surface and cause the pto to slip don't ask how I know this.

My problem would be........Now where did I leave my steering wheel.....

Hello all Richy in West Wales here. I collected my Wheel Horse today - bought from a classic car /automobilia auction a couple of weeks back. I'm new to this - can anyone tell me about this model please, as I'm clueless so far!

For the first time in my 40 year old life, I changed oil, gear oil, a fuel filter, and an air filter. Woot! Now I am looking to rewire my headlights and apply some grease. I was just going to grease the spindles, but I noticed some grease plugs on each side of the back axle. Is there anywhere else that I should think about greasing? Is there any other maintenance that I should learn? Thanks guys!

I saw the comment that the two stage and single stage used the same cranks. Here is a picture of my two. Top (silver) is from my two stage and the bottom (Black) is from my single stage. Same dimensions but the single stage has a rotating handle. Here are the dimensions Also, my two stage has a longer connection tube so that the crank can be used with a cab. Kurt My two stage was missing the sway bar also, so I made my own. I used some 1/2" HMW Poly for the rub block. It works just fine, but limits the opening of the hood. Kurt

I just got finished making up a crank rod to turn the snow thrower chute on my 520-HC with a Ber-Vac snow thrower. Here are some pics of how I did it. I am very pleased with the results. I used a 3/8 drive universal and a 3/8 drive extension. My neighbor welded the extension into a piece of 1/2 inch conduit and the universal into a piece of 3/4 inch conduit. Then he welded the original crank handle in the other end of the 1/2 inch conduit. The universal snaps into the extension giving me the flexible joint I need for the angle and also it's easy to remove when I remove the snow thrower with no tools. I can let the universal attached to the snow thrower. The 3/4 conduit has a 3/8 hole drilled in it for a bolt to fasten it to the chute gear on the snow thrower. The 1/2 inch conduit fits perfectly in the hole on the support bracket attached to the tractor. All I need to do now is make an attachment for the lift assist springs on the front quick hitch bracket.

With all the talk about snow plows of late and winter on the way I thought I would share a few parts I decided try and make and I think they turned out pretty nice...the adjustable skid shoes for keeping the cutting edge/wear bar up out of gravels or grinding off on asphalt/concrete the factory O.E. are sand blasted black the ones I made still raw steel then painted black on the plow ,and the rear axle quick hitch black factory and raw steel I made the locking keys if you look close enough the pitted one's are original and non pitted I made, Jeff.

Package deal like that around here in VA would go for $2500+/-, I just got one with a bagger with 560 hrs for $1000 another in the spring with just a deck $1200 the 2stage blower $250 last fall and my tiller (which BTW will leak from the gearbox perpetually) $300 5-6 years ago but that depends on the shape of the tines so let's say $1200 tractor with deck + $300 blower + $300 tiller and a cab another $200 so depending on your area $2000+ would be fair for the whole package, then ask yourself what would $2000 get you at Lowe's or Home Depot just my opinion,. Oh I just saw the rear clevis hitch and disc and turnover moldboard plow an aerator and front mount dethatcher and yard cart HOPEFULLY you get all that (anything that fits or for use with that wheel horse) too!!!, great find,Jeff.

Sorry about the Cubs but seriously, I believe there is a (other brands) section if you wish to discuss them. Oh and by the way to and don't be afraid to ask for any help with your 520 it is a nice machine and there is lots of information and good people here on Redsquare to answer any questions you might have.

Does luck follow you! Don't mess around asking a bunch of questions about the C160 or it won't follow you for long! Go get it! Ask questions later!

Just an update. Finally got all the pieces blasted, primed and painted. Now the real challenge sets in....Waiting for the paint to cure before starting to put it back together. Also, any suggestions on seats is appreciated. The recipient of this tractor, my son-in-law, is about 6'4 and 240 lbs, so I need to find a seat with good suspension and one that can be mounted far enough back so he won't be too cramped. I have a stack coming from @jimkemp so that decision is made. I was going to add more white accents but the SIL wanted all red, except the wheels of course. It seems that the disassembly and reassembly are the fun parts. The blasting, grinding and priming is monotonous...Painting isn't bad because you know the reassembly is getting near, but then that impatience gene kicks in.... Tempted to start tearing down the 856, but wisdom says not to have two tractors torn apart at the same time..... Oh...and...the pics. Rough count is about 200 individual pieces to blast, prime and paint, for the tractor alone......

No Dennis. I dont know for sure what years but I parted out a 90 that had swept axle and no gear reduction.

#40 roller chain works very well on my plow tractor

11-10-1969 Sesame Street debuts On this day in 1969, “Sesame Street,” a pioneering TV show that would teach generations of young children the alphabet and how to count, makes its broadcast debut. “Sesame Street,” with its memorable theme song (“Can you tell me how to get/How to get to Sesame Street”), went on to become the most widely viewed children’s program in the world. It has aired in more than 120 countries. The show was the brainchild of Joan Ganz Cooney, a former documentary producer for public television. Cooney’s goal was to create programming for preschoolers that was both entertaining and educational. She also wanted to use TV as a way to help underprivileged 3- to 5- year-olds prepare for kindergarten. “Sesame Street” was set in a fictional New York neighborhood and included ethnically diverse characters and positive social messages. Taking a cue from “Rowan and Martin’s Laugh-In,” a popular 1960s variety show, “Sesame Street” was built around short, often funny segments featuring puppets, animation and live actors. This format was hugely successful, although over the years some critics have blamed the show and its use of brief segments for shrinking children’s attention spans. From the show’s inception, one of its most-loved aspects has been a family of puppets known as Muppets. Joan Ganz Cooney hired puppeteer Jim Henson (1936-1990) to create a cast of characters that became Sesame Street institutions, including Bert and Ernie, Cookie Monster, Oscar the Grouch, Grover and Big Bird

Got another good spark plug you can try? I always keep a spare new one for times like this. Try it and if it works leave it there. If it still doesn't run I remove the new plug and save it for the next time. Weak plugs will fire out of the head but can fail under compression. Garry

I don't have one either, but my 520H is just fine with out it.

Welcome to Red Square - Looks like you found a great deal on a nice 520H. I agree with some others. If it overheating, I would you pull the engine shrouds and clean the cylinders and heads. Most likely it packed with oil, dirt, and grass. Especially the rear cylinder. Even if it wasn't overheating, I would suggest you do that. Lots of help here if you decide to get it. Kurt

The lift assist spring is important with hydro lift as well as it allows the blower to float more and helps it from digging down into the ground on gravel and should actually help with steering to a point as it is pulling up on the blower. Also without it the blower lifts crooked with the right side barely lifting off the ground.

One of the more desirable WHs. I really don't need it but I DO desire it. Most all C, 300,400 and 500 series attachments will fit, though as already noted the dozer blade will need extension. This is because it has a forward swept axle that will also accommodate the 60" deck. I'm guessing you'll have to spend some time pulling the engine tin off and blowing out fins. My 2 cents from mowing with my 416 Onan is that there are better engine choices for mowing. Mine is however a great leaf and grass cutting collector! Seems they all try to gather on the engine shroud! Won't help with engine cooling! And if I might interject a question, guys, does the swept axle also mean steering gear reduction? Either way I'm pretty sure I'd have to buy it! Hubcaps, weights and if that was a 48" deck? Yep! Silly match up IMHO to put a 42" on that 20 hp beast!

Nice Horse! Yes, 48" SD deck, height adjustment on the right. Be sure to clean all the engine and trans fan. Post your progress, we Horses' need updates!

mr washington, Glenn you were a great president

Certain case of Wheel Horse Addiction. A good thing! Does the Ms. believe the, "Followed me home." story thingy?

I got tired of the cheap plastic driveway markers breaking so I made up a few of my own. TSC has ones similar to these in carbon steel but I made mine from stainless steel. They should outlive me as long as I don't try and put them through the snow blower. Here are the plans, pictures will be added soon. Driveway marker.pdf Cleat

Tubes is probably your best bet unless you pick up thorns in the tires, then Green Slime is the hot ticket. Randy

BUT C-160 for $200

Mine didn't come w a lift rod or sway bar and bumper. I was able to borrow a lift bar to copy. Works great! I finally found a sway bar, bumper & belt guard assembly. Haven't ever installed any of them. It's one less thing to mess around with. It's been a few years now and I haven't had any problems without those pieces. im open to suggestions for installing the lift spring. I use a hydro and thought it unnecessary.

Both those tractors are fine looking and hard working beast's!!!!!

No thread. I did up the engine, 16 hp.

This is what I did and it works great!

Now I know why I never watched Sesame Street. I was in the army when it came out....

For the price, take it all. Selling off what you don't want will get your moola +++ back.

You`ll also need some weight in the rear. As you know by now, these things are heavy....

You won't regret it - the 16hp single has so much torque the only thing that might suffer is the belt drive...lol . Sarge

Thanks for all your welcomes/help/support everybody! Genuinely appreciated. Rich

Grease the steering gear. I also remove the steering wheel cap, load some PB Blaster and replace the cap. Don't know which Horse you have?

Keep 's clean, oiled, adjusted and greased and they will last forever...

I've found power coating to have 2 virtues, it can coat areas hard to cover otherwise and it meets current VOC restrictions. I think it's popularity is mostly due to the latter and not because it is superior to high quality paint. I find it chips and once it does rust is happy to get under it and grow. Through the decades I've found Rustoleum 769 primer to be outstanding! I have a heavy wheel barrow that was rather rusty over 20 years ago that was only wirebrushed and only primed with Rustoleum 769 and today it has still not rusted any further after sitting outside every day since! Pretty good test I'd say! There are other newer and higher tech primers and metal preps but all I did was wire brush and prime! Rustoleum 769!

Whats in my trailer?? I always wanted one ...and this one fell in my lap... Missing parts tho

I was thinking, "Phone booth?"

No , I sized the bushing to a final .0055" clearance - the grease zerk still does the job of lubrication . The tapered holes in the bell crank/idler are fine for now but are a bit out of spec - I'm using two NOS inside stock rod ends for the time being . When they wear out I think I can fit reduced bore heims and still clear the frame . Please follow up when you test out those metric rod ends , I'm sure others are going to need a source sooner or later . Does that rod end share the 1/2-20 LH thread dimension or are you changing the tie rod tubes as well ?? Sarge

I had a nice grader blade that was great to do the driveway. But sold it to a buddy after getting a 5' landscaping rake. But for the avarge WH owner, the grader blade is a great tool to own.

Deck support greased underneath and top of deck greased where support contacts it to help prevent rust between these. Spindles and deck support installed. Spindles greased and pulleys installed. Belt tension assembly installed. Belt installed. Left hand guard installed and right hand guard bracket installed. The rest of the brackets will be installed in a few days.