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I was recently sent this ad from a fellow euro member Simon Cole (Landsurveyor) . It is from a small holder magazine announcing the introduction of the new RJ58/59 to the UK market. The article is also dated 1959 & shows some nice photographs

just got this to replace my gt 1142. the gt has served me very very well for the last two years but i wanted to upgrade. so ive been looking for awhile and came across this one only about 20 minutes away! so i went ahead and got her. now it didnt come with any attachments but i am going to use the deck off the gt. also, i put my plow, chains and weights on it for this winter. i think it will do very well and hopefully earn its keep. now my future plans are to get new front tires for it, a 48 inch mower deck and maybe some paint and new seat. ive already fallen in love with this thing. just hope it can be as good if not better than the gt. anybody that has a mower deck for sale, please let me know. id like to find one soon so i can have it all ready for this spring. let me now what ya'll think!

Here's a few goodies. An early 60's seat cover. Mirror. And a copper and sterling silver keychain Mrs Funengineer made for me. Sent from my tractor seat.

Interestingly, my first thought was roll-over, or a busted frame. I had taken a quick look earlier in the week to see if the plate was cracked, and never even noticed the missing bolts. However, in my defense, the entire area was so packed with oil and grass clippings that it was a bit difficult to see. I noticed the shiny heads on the lower bolts, but didn't even think about the fact that they were undersized. So, I now surmise that the bolts vibrated lose. I've never seen that before. The upper bolts stayed in, but the lower bolts came completely out. In his haste to make a temporary repair, the previous owner attempted to replace the lowers, but now that the shifting of the plate caused the upper holes to become egg-shaped, the lower holes didn't line up and 1/4" was the only size that would fit into the holes. Since the lower bolts screw into a flange on the transmission case, a long bolt could be put through the plate and flange, then a nut put on the back. After some more time passed, the uppers worked completely out, leaving the situation that I discovered. I had to replace the drive belt due to a large chunk being missing, and the alignment looks fine. As soon as I get another chance to work on it, I am going to replace the cam plate and cam, then work my way forward to the motion control lever, tightening or replacing until I have smooth motion.

If you're bored this winter it would be a good short term project to turn your shop into a shop, if you haven't already. If anyone here has turned something into equipment I'd love to see it. The big grinder no has a little brother. This one had quit and we wanted an 8" so we got one of those. Seems all that was wrong with the 6" one was the switch so we ordered another one for it and got it going again. We'll use the 8 for grinding and the 6 for cleaning. Of course they had to match... Here is big brother in case you didn't see it in the other thread -

Thanks Jerry Funny you should bring this up, I was looking at the front of the hood the other day and thought it looked a bit upright and not as mean as I had in mind! Looking at this photo there is enough space between the front of the hood and the engine frame to "lean" the front of the hood inwards at the bottom... You have certainly given me something to think about Duels anyone? Maybe not... A bit too much Progress has been made although it's hard to tell from the next photo.. The axle has been put back together, diff and half shafts installed.. The axle can now be unbolted from the chassis, and the axle mounting place on the chassis has had some reinforcing.. I really need to take some photos! One thing I always pride myself on is doing everything "In house" or even "In workshop", partly because it's nice to be able to say "I made that", and partly because I'd rather spend time making something than part with money So with that in mind yesterday I finally came up with an accurate, safe and strong way I could convert a Wh rear wheel with it's 5 bolt 4 1/2" PCD.. To fit the Reliant's 4 bolt 4" PCD I found this nice length of thick plate hiding on the bottom of a shelf in Nigel's "Handy scrap metal" store.. (Thanks Nigel ) which is enough to make 2 wheel centers from. Let the lathe work start The bad news is this steel is rather hard so it's going to take quite a while to turn each wheel center!

I just ran across this video on youtube and had never seen or heard of this cooking method before and wondered if any of you grillers and party barbeque cooks have ever tried this, Looks pretty interesting and well, different, but it worked. Just curious if anyone here has tried and what you think about it.

For many, the time to winterize has long past. I let the time slip by and am only now getting around to doing it now. I would like to see how many different ways our member do this each year and what products if any they use.

Getting the '90 520-8 up 'n runnin' was and is a joy. Heard some poor stuff 'bout the Onan but, all is fine now. Every time I took the Stallion out to work 'n play, my heart skipped, beat fast, and my anxiety grew to unbelievable levels. Hurt. Too bad I had to ride the Horse with my eyes open. Geeze was I T'd off! I fixed the poor Stallion with Mr. Pettit's wonderful expert assistance. Was like heavens opened and the sun shined on the old '90 520-8, a new life! Glen's medicine is better for me and like a seasoned vet the Horse can now breathe relief while crusin' the property. Thanks Mr. Pettit! I'm goin' to look around your Horse Pharmacy!

I just received my new wheel horse sign from brad (876wheelhorse) in the mail today. I love it it looks good here but the woman don't think so Thanks brad roughly $70 shipped to my door .

thats the only thing I hate about those lights some angles it looks really pink. I actually got with a member here on redsquare and he tore a sign apart and put led lights in it. looks alot better. but price went up alittle and well worth it.

And a special beverage cooler. Sent from my tractor seat.

An interesting concept. Different twist on the norm. Glenn

I'd like to have it just the way it is.

Posted Today, 02:42 PM If you've seen a tractor ad in the past few years, this Kubota ad does a great job of lampooning the typical tractor commercials you're used to seeing. Definitely thought it was pretty funny and well done: Taken from a post on GTTalk: Lots of other Tractor commercials to view there on YouTube

Depends ......I keep up on maintenance on most things I own. Every small engine I own gets seafoam year round. It helps believe me. Ive found in most cases I can put machines away with an extra dose of seafoam in them and be fine come spring. Oil changes are done per hours on my clock so I don't make that a "spring thing". I keep everything lubed from the get go on anything I buy that hasn't been or anything new. A can of spray grease can be your friend. I also will remove in some cases bolt and nuts and neverseize them and reinstall. All new hardware I put on a machine gets that same treatment. Doing this stuff regularly throughout the year makes it easy as rolling it into the shop for the winter. Oil changes, plugs, etc I do based on engine run time. Some I only run a few times a year. Why put a new plug it in every year? So I go by manufacture hour time if its available.

Job well done, your inspiring me to put my new decals on to. Glenn

Geno before I forget, I used the Krylon paint plus primer you suggested for the satin black and it didn't react with the Ace Hardware red. Covered in 2 coats, good stuff . Epoxied the new pto disc in place and reinstalled everything. Put the decals on the hood and fender pan and that pretty well wraps it up for this winter. The rest of the decals will go on next year when I tear the upper dash out to repair a stress crack, reinforce the upper steering shaft bushing and take care of the rest of the detail work. Got to get back on the Suburban so this one is done for now.

I did look at every manual in the files, but I was looking for a complete soft cab like mine. Would've never guessed it was that old or made for the GT 14. I'm going to put it back on the C 160 and do whatever it takes to firm up the frame so the doors work right. No need for it on the GT 14's since one's a gardener/mower, and the other one's got the big plow on it. No kids that'd enjoy using the snow thrower without a cab . . . and I don't have enough kid in me to use a snow thrower without a cab . . . unless the wind is 0 mph. Thanks for the help.

WTG Bob ...Nice buck. Was he by himself ? I had a herd of 18 doe and fawns cross the road in front of me today. Not a buck in the bunch. After they crossed and piled up trying to get through this 5 wire fence, I remembered my camera. I just called Grandson Owen and told him to be ready at 6AM tomorrow for his last day to take a buck.

Operators Manual and Parts List:

Personally, I would rather buy something un-restored unless I know the person that restored it. Not saying you would be a bad restorer, just that I as the buyer would not know. Not everyone fees this way though!

looks like the inlet needle seat Brian

Here's a cool 1930's Ford Doodlebug tractor that I am getting this Sunday! It has a lot of potential for sure. I won't change it a lot but just try to get it operational. I was going to buy this before I got sick earlier in the year but couldn't go get it afterwards. Now that I am getting back to normal I called the old timer to see if he still had it. He said he still has it and was wondering if I still wanted it. We made the deal for the 2nd time and now I can go get it asap! It looks to be a 1930's Ford Model TT 1 and a 1/2 ton truck frame, motor and 4 speed trans. Should be a cool project. Check out the cool distributor among other cool stuff! The owner has a set of front tires, metal seat and a steering wheel too. He also has a rear end for it too but wants another $100 for it. I told him I didn't want the rearend.

I'm putting the cart before the horse on this one but I wanted to thank forum member COD (Steve) for loaning me a defective WH418a indicator pcb to develop a repair test fixture. Steve, I will post the full "story" behind the repair but I wanted to let you know how your contribution will make it possible to effectively and economically repair and upgrade indicator boards for WH 300 and 400 series tractors . Many more secrets have been given up as to how the indicator board functions and what the various failure modes are for the individual components on the board. I was able to make modifications to the circuitry to VASTLY increase the reliability of the board assembly. I'm sure the test jig will evolve as I investigate any wiring changes need to accommodate the 300 series tractors. Right now wires are everywhere!

Is a brinly disc harrow worth restoring with intentions to sell after all painted up? Do people buy these all fixed up?

Summer-grade fuel has a different RVP (Reid Vapor Pressure) than winter-grade, it keeps the EPA happy... It costs more also and is part of the reason prices rise around Memorial Day when they switch. Gasoline must have an RVP below 14.7 PSI (pounds per square inch), which is normal atmospheric pressure; if a fuel's RVP were greater than 14.7 PSI, excess pressure would build up in the gas tank, and the fuel could boil and evaporate. Depending on the part of the country, the EPA's standards mandate an RVP below 9.0 PSI or 7.8 PSI for summer-grade fuel. Some local regulations call for stricter standards. Because of these varying RVP standards, up to 20 different types of boutique fuel blends are sold throughout the U.S. during the summer [source: Slate]. Because RVP standards are higher during the winter, winter-grade fuel uses more butane, with its high RVP of 52 PSI, as an additive. Butane is inexpensive and plentiful, contributing to lower prices. Summer-grade fuel might still use butane, but in lower quantities -- around 2 percent of a blend [source: The Oil Drum]. Does your head hurt yet?

SUCCESS! So I reshaped teeth on bull gear by grinding the little square notch that was causing transmission to get stuck when moving both axles simultaneously in neutral . Reassembled transmission with bearings in correct places. Tightened everything and tested it. Functions perfectly and now I can move both axles in neutral together in reverse without it hanging up. So prior to rebuild this wasn't a problem since bronze bearings were virtually gone and there was so much play between bull gear and mushroom gear that bull gear was actually scraping center housing. All that play would allow mushroom gear to climb square notch . Once new bearings and bronze bearings were installed everything was snug and aligned properly making that square notch a real obstacle. Also been able to secure a complete set of the later type bull gear and mushroom gear with more teeth. I am however use this one this way saving those parts for another day. Second one to rebuild is already on the bench.

WOW looking very nice it sure turned out nice !!

Some days it all comes together. I spent a good morning with Owen watching woodpeckers and scoping 4 doe, but all we have left is Owen's buck tag. Had to take him to a basketball game at noon..his team lost bad. Then back to the woods for the evening. One doe appeared right at dark and we could see another deer back in the shadows. We ran out of light before we could ID that one. Oh well we'll uncase the smokepole after Christmas.

Imagine how warm your "behind" would be with nuttin but thin sheetmetal and an inch of foam seperating your butt and a K-341!! Mike............

It helps to save old parts.My snow blower is a 36 inch auger and by adding a extra wing I now cut 46 inches wide. I had the extra parts off a junk blower. With a 1200 foot drive way it has worked great even in deep snow. Its mounted on a 520 H so it has the power behind it.

Yes, Hort was also involved and Cohort is wanted for questioning.

Well look what walked my way today......

We had about 6 inches with the Thanksgiving Nor'easter here. The crack meteorologists at the WeatherUnderground.org, The Ntaional Weather Service, NOAA, WNEP, WBRE, WPSU, Accuweather and everyone else including old ladies with an arthritic weather predicting big toe stated we would get 1 to 3 inches then a dusting to an inch last night. Well now............ I plowed 4 inches off the driveway before I went to work on Thursday morning and when I came home from work i took another 5 inches off of it at 9PM Thursday night! Then drove through an inch on it this morning! Heavy, wet and slippery! Nice pics!

Sweet tank,,,,,,,sweet. Good medicine right? ALL of my ponies have Glens handiwork on them. Top notch. Glenn

Here is a check valve just before the fuel pump on my D-160. I also use clear fuel line so that I can see if there is fuel in the line and how well the fuel is moving to the carburetor. I also no longer use fuel with ethanol which is not good for the diaphragms in the older vacuum and mechanical fuel pumps. I did buy a couple of electric fuel pumps from Amazon for a couple of other tractors. The pumps are Airtex E8016S Electric Fuel Pumps that pump at about 2 to 4 psi. I have not installed one yet but I have a hard starting C-81 that should get one this weekend. The electric pumps are probably the best solution if you want quick starts and are not worried about keeping the original pump style.

got primer on the bonnet of the ranger, that means that i need to start stripping some more of the ranger to prime and paint james

Those discs (and small garden plows) are always very popular items for sale at swap meets !

The disc pictured would be a nice one to restore, the newer models not so much. I agree with bmsgaffer, sell it as is.

I found a little time to dismount all the rims and clean them up some. Lots of No. 7 polish... I think they are gonna be just fine...

Well as usual Ian it looks great so far. can't wait to see more. You have some amazing skills.

20hp....Nice!

Thanks James Yesterday was the day the last bit of the original Wh chassis was removed.. The new chassis certainly looks cleaner without the old rails inside The front end is starting to take shape. The big box across the front will become the new front axle after it has had a change of shape, some strengthening and something added to give it a real Hot rod look Oh... And I found a spare plug yesterday

X2. I watched the 300 series....cool!!

Evening chaps, after a busy few months sorting out the 6x6, the shows and car problems work on "Why Not" has started again After a much needed clean-up in the shack the rest of the Reliant axle was stripped down.. All the brake gubbins was removed from the axles.. The steel bar behind the axle is what I will be making the sleeves out of. One side of the axle housing cleaned up and unneeded brackets removed... I may or may not reuse the outer axle mounts, so they will stay on for now until I decide. Then after a chat with Nigel about how "Why Not" should look when it's finished, I found myself armed with a craft knife, a can of silver polish, and an old sock!! And polished up a bit of one of the rocker covers to see how it looked! I fear a "full on" custom paint job may be in order These are the original engine mounts cut from the bike frame, the trouble is that's what they look like... But the thick walled tube bit will come in handy for making my own mounts.. So I cut them out and cleaned them up.. Now for a bit of thinking... Known as wheels.. Even though Doug very kindly sent me down a pair of 12" wheels that bolt straight to the Reliant axle (Thanks again Doug) I just can't shake the picture in my head of "Why Not" running WH wheels at the back.. Which brings me back to the problem of the Reliant axle being a 4 bolt 4" pcd, like this Kitten wheel.. And of course a Wh wheel has a 5 bolt 4 1/2" pcd.. With the measuring caliper divider thingys set at 4" apart you can see the problems with how close the new holes would be to the old, and also the new holes would end up too close to the er.. Big hole in the middle of the wheel.. Another problem is the Wh wheels are not what you call flat in the middle and any 4 bolt pcd pattern would clash with the ups and downs of the wheel.. Making a new wheel center with the right pcd would be quite easy on my lathe... The problem would be cutting the center out of the WH wheel accurately as it's way too big for my lathe.. Until I was sitting with a smoke and a coffee pondering the problem and I happened to glance at the rear wheels on my WH 312... It will take a bit of working out but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to make a 12hp Kohler powered lathe So the new plan is to cut the center out the Wh wheels and replace them with my own made centers

And then Mark who has been kind enough and also has the maths brain power that I'm lacking came back with a few calculations for me! It's the final number that hit home!! That sort of top speed from a 48hp V twin would just be embarrassing, and could be got from a 10hp Kohler with a lot less work!! Looking at the final drive on the end of that shaft did get me thinking though.. If the final drive was bit further back to line up with the Wh trans axles then maybe it could be used to drive a cart axle!! Yes it's the same photo again So, off to the shed I trundled and grabbed the Honda's rear wheel to unbolt this bit.. It shouldn't be too hard to get a sprocket to fit that And that bit happens to slide onto the final drive Sooo, the new plan is to use the Honda's swing arm and final drive then take power back from there via chain and sprocket to a rather strong kart axle.. I can even use the Honda's rear brake which is more than up to the job and very easy to fit The new plan kinda moves this build up a few levels as it could be very easily geared to reach the bikes level of top speed or even more should the suicidal urge take me!! I'm happy to gear it for a bit less top speed but certainly more than 14.20422 MPH Oh, and while the front axle was off I lowered the front end quite a bit to see how it looked