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Loaded up the 1277 loader and 310 and brought them to town for some dirt work. Had a hundred year old tree taken out a few years ago and the front yard had really humped up over the years. We hauled about 4 pickup truck loads of dirt out, moved more around then reseaded. I took an old scotts spreader and added a hitch made out of conduit to I could pull it behind a tractor. We also used it to spread sand on my heavy clay soil to try and loosen it up a bit.

Had an old four foot fluorescent shop light that needed new tubes. While I was out doing the weekly Corona Virus shopping spree this morning I found a pair of LED direct replacement tubes for $ 8.88 that are super bright. I will be getting more for sure.

***warning long thread alert with lots of pictures and videos*** I don't post as much as I should, despite 3 horses regularly earning their keep round here - all have had build threads. So this seems no different At the 2015 UK Wheel Horse round up, I bought a C-121 from a friends son. He had half stripped it... lost bits, sandblasted some - lost faith. £50 was a steal... $75 to you guys in the US. We've moved house and pushed this thing around for 5 years and decided we need a regular Horse that the snow blower, plows and tiller will fit - this seemed the most apt one out of the GT14, Commando 8, Lawn Ranger and C-160 auto parked next to it to resurrect Looking under the hood... theres no wiring or cables for throttle and choke. But engine looks intact.... turning the pulley however it sounds pretty grim, something scraping! So first thing pop the drive pulley in case it is scraping nope not that... so pull the flywheel... ahhh that'll make a noise! out with the epoxy... that should do it Next to strip carb and fuel pump... no pics of cleaning them - pump was full of white corrosion - carb was remarkably clean I can tell it was spent a long time outdoor by looking at the blower housing repairable, but I've got better things to do... Before torquing the flywheel I checked if there was any oil - I think there was a drop on the dipstick, so very low. Poured a quart in... doh! someone had snapped the remote drain off... So weld a 3/8 bolt into the remaining piece and use a fibre washer! fixed! So let's balance a coil and condenser on the top with a 12V battery and see if we can get a spark. Nothing - pull points cover and points look like fuel pump, all rusted up and contacts not good! quick clean and emery cloth, setting the gap to 0.05mm (we are metric here in the UK - plus I don't have any imperial feelers ) Turn the flywheel and a spark Whats the chances now if we dangle a fuel pipe in a jerry can and jump the starter? IMG_1230.MOV Started and ticks over nicely, used the basic 2-1/2 turns on both needles and it runs pretty well - I never fail to jump on the backfires, will run better with a muffler! Daren't run too long without the blower housing too!!! Join us tomorrow for the next exciting instalment

I know a couple people may have seen this on FB... but I done and got a new haircut! It was just after our first bracket loss on a Euchre Tournament and we went on to win 1st place! Coincidence? Intimidation?

If the the PO never ground a bevel, the weld is probably just on the surface. You should be able to save the axles and the hubs. There probably is a problem with the keyways though that caused the PO to weld. We have restored shaft keyways and new keyways can be cut in the hubs. If the tractor is running, I would consider blocking it and let it turn as a lathe. A Dremel or cut off wheel on a 41/2 " angle grinder could be used to slit the weld. Support the grinder on blocks so you have good position control and let the hub turn as you ease the grinder into the weld.

Looks like Mrs. P is thinking, glad for Covid quarantine we don't have to go anywhere in public together.

Some times it's just worth the satisfaction of saying " I drug this old girl out of the weeds & got 'er running and working again".

One might say I have an upper hand on the the "exhausting" situation we have here as I worked for 22 years at Tenneco Walker Exhaust Systems in their only aftermarket facility in the USA, Yes fiberglass is used as a sound deadening/absorbent yes the variant they used was heat resistant but NOT heat or flame proof , it did come in as bulk "pads" or strings that they calling "roving" used in "glasspack" mufflers and also their Super Turbo and Dynomax performance mufflers as well as their top tier O.E. style factory replacements line called QuietFlo... Here is some more insights... https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bassani-exhaust-fiberglass-muffler-repack-kit ... @ebinmaine please don't "exhaust" yourself over this .

I hope you used 80w-90 Gear Oil to make it stand up like that and not some fancy department store hair product.

I agree with @Achto If you think your going to make money on it by getting it running your not. I get my satisfaction out of saving it. I also have a soft spot for RER's. If I came across that for little to no money it would be in the back of my truck headed home with me. See if there is oil in it and the engine spins, then check and see if it rolls. I am not the best mechanic either, everyone here on this site can do better then me with a wrench with their eyes closed. Those people are happy to help with any problems you have repairing it too. Question is are you willing to spend the time and money to get it running and driving under its own power. Not if it is worth anything. It would be a labor of love.

Broke down and got some new deestone D405 26x12-12 tires for my D160 and for the price I really like them, though they do seem to run a little bit smaller but just barely. Going through the woods in my back yard is about 14 acres of muddy rutted trails and the D goes through like it's on tracks now 100% better than the old turfs.

Well I got them all off the trailer today yeah it was Mother’s Day but the wife was on call and got called in for a couple hrs today so the kids and I went out and pulled them off first one is a 1054 no hood seat was there but trashed gas tank isn’t terrible original grill and has all lights has the down draft carb and the hydro system is all there original motor, next is a hydro tractor not Original motor more for parts then anything but I think I am going to swap rear ends put a narrow front and do my first build out of it sense it’s a real basket case, next is a 552 pretty decent little tractor other then not original motor and good is cut rear end gears are good couldn’t pass up the deal for them a lot of good parts and picked up some front wheel weights off a Allis but I am going to try to put them on the front of a tractor... guy ended up with these he put a ad in the paper he wanted allis but he kept getting calls for tractors but would show up and they would not be what he was looking for but ended up buying them they have been sitting for some time. Guy wanted to restore them when he retired but he said he won’t ever have the time being his wife has 5 beauty parlors and he has rental property’s so he said they have to go. Was a real nice guy. But I am really hoping I have all my parts for to make my ultimate plow tractor. Watch for that post soon

BTW Eric, it's Monday. Where's the weekend progress report. TRINA! Give him a

One more one last thing. I found some 1/4” chain cleaning up shop so I split a couple links and twisted ‘em, installed, twisted back and welded ‘em back up.

Err! Ummm! What can I say?

Some body is going to stick up for the little guy. Might as well be me. Here is how I look at it. A new walk behind mower is around $400. Maybe, for a tube and a little clean up, you have something you can ride. If it runs good, it is worth $200 all day long. They are sooo cute. I just bought an REO-65 and it does an excellent cut on my lawn.

one last, one final, I think this really is it thing... I cut about 1” off the top link, maybe 1-1/2”. the point of the plow is about 6-1/2” off the ground now!

The 8hp B&S was a tough old bird. When I was young I also had an A-81 5 speed with a deck under it. Same goofy little 32" deck. It's still around but dismantled now. It was a hoot to use. They make a sweet little hotrod when dropped a few inches, and a big opposed twin motor is added with straight pipes.. don't ask how I know. They are generally worthless. Honestly. And they weren't that good a mower. But there's nothing better to learn on, as they are very simple and stout. The rear rims are an odd size, but a hand truck wheel will work up front.

Never said I was a painter lol. Guilty of rushing though, would have liked to see things cure more before I moved in. The stripes are my tractor ramps laid on the floor I think.

Well, the boys just couldn’t wait until Wednesday night. They’re heading over after dinner for the run down! I am not sure who’s the most excited!

Strait through is going to be more noisy. Also a small diameter pipe tends to have a higher pitch than a larger diameter pipe.

Words fail me Kev!!! Good thing you have a sweet assortment of hats😂

It's good that you're going to be using non ethanol fuel. Some things that come to mind. Replace all of your fuel line. I've switched over to using see through stuff. Best to stop using starting fluid all together unless strictly for diagnostic purposes like if you're trying to see if a New 2 you engine will fire at all. If you have an engine and fuel system that consistently need starting fluid, it needs repair. Perhaps consider adding a boat type squeeze bubble primer in line.

I believe you are wearing a hoody. Cover that thing up !

Before it leaves the shop... GT14 three point hitch, 10” plow. Fuel is near empty, tank needs cleaning. 867 lbs!

Threw a little shine on the moldboard before the tractor leaves the shop. I’ll toss some grease on too, as recommended by real plow dogs!

Thats a task for another day.... lessons in welding rust

I used fiberglass mat when I made the pipe for Radpferd. The same fiberglass mat that is used for making repairs on fiberglass.

I didn’t use anything... my SIL is a graduate of hair school and used all my MIL’s expensive hair junk

I took off my plow and front and rear weights off and put my 1995 520 H in summer mode the other day. I put the hubcaps on too, but not in the picture.

for years I cut close to one acre with a 704 - and then later used it to cut little over an acre .. the 704 was fine I currently cut 2.5 - 3 acres used a 312-8 for years (and still have it /use it) - but now most times use a 416-H the 416-H is much better suited to cut a large amount of grass - saves me anywhere from 30-60 minutes can better spin a bigger deck and cut grass faster - especially tall/heavy grass and up grades 416-H and 520-H (and similar ) sorta / kinda bridge the gap between something like a 10/12 hp manual and a recent more efficient zero turn in muscle car terms - a 312 or similar 1277 or whatever - is like a strong running small block Chevy ... 327 275 hp or maybe even a 350 350 ... something like that a 520 is more like a 454 ... maybe a 454 450 hp ...

Just got tired of just my tractors having a stack... It’s all in good fun, hair usually comes back

Kevin, you look like a monster Truck!

picked up a pair of 48" led lights at wally, complete lights 12 $, each, was an overstock leftover , they really light up my sheds too, pete

For every tractor serial number there is at least one attachment number and more because they all got at least one. Some years it appears the numbers did not start over so that helps get them up there also. You may have noticed I added zeros to the beginning of some serial numbers because in that particular year they did get up that high using that many digits. Amazing really. When I started recording them they were all in one database so the correct number of digits was required to keep them in order. If you see say 2 zeros at the beginning all the serials for tractor and attachments for that model year will have that many digits. When I added them to our files I did not change them from what I had in the original database. My though was someday maybe they can be put back into one. Another interesting bit. You may have seen where I explained the 6th digit in the model numbers. Say you have model 1-0120-8. You subtract 5 from the 6th digit you get the model year. 8-5=3=1973. The first 6th digit used was a 6 for 1971. Just recently realized that magic 5 was in practice before 1971. Look at 1968 Raider 12 model 1-6231 and at 1969 Raider 12 model 1-6241 and at 1970 Raider 12 model 1-6251 You add 5 to the 3rd digit you get the model year. Then for 1971- 1974 they subtracted 5. Garry

In a diesel engine it ignites too quickly and can damage the engine even in small doses. For a gas engine, it isn't as dangerous but the general consensus is that it washes the engine parts TOO CLEAN. You lose that microscopic film of oil that rides between the Piston skirt and the combustion wall. Here's an article from Amsoil that does a far better job of explaining it than I could. https://blog.amsoil.com/is-starting-fluid-bad-for-gas-engines/

Hi so I have my old wheel horse a-81 its been sitting out side for quite a while is missing a tire gear moves fine its a good little tractor but not sure if it’s worth fixing. let me know what you think below

New front shoes today no jack required. Vredesein v61 18x8.5x8 6 ply.

The grease really makes that bare old steel POP!

if you can get some stainless steel lathe trimmings, that will do it , they really stand up to heat , pete

https://www.amazon.com/fiberglass-exhaust-packing/s?k=fiberglass+exhaust+packing

It could be as simple as an adjustment of the Dog-point screw that holds your shift lever in place. This thread should be helpful.

Trina, her mom, and I, along with the puppy dog spent some time in the woods today. Cut another path to get into another area with the splitter. Trina and her mom split a small pile of wood that we had sliced up a week or two ago, along with some that I did today. I spent a couple tanks worth of gas limbing and sectioning up parts of several different trees. I took the dog back on foot and Trina talked her mom into driving the Cinnamon Horse up out of the woods. Note the fact that Trina's mom is sticking her tongue out at her. Trina reports that her mom was smiling from ear-to-ear!!!

That's really not a difficult decision...………. Keep them both

Every 800 Special I have ever seen had a different sort of front driving rig. Instead of a tach-a-matic mule drive, or the late 1960's adapter bracket which allowed a newer mule to be used, they had a single U shaped piece of heavy steel. The pulleys were hard mounted to this bracket, and one pulley was on a spring and lever set up. It also usually had a guard up front, and sure looked like a bumper.. often used as one. I have one in the basement, which is twisted, like every single one of them tend to be. I'll get a photo come morning, but here is one off an internet sourced photo.

I don't follow NASCAR much anymore either but I did see this week's virtual race at North Wilksboro. That was pretty cool to see. Did anyone notice the Wheel Horse sign?

Agreed! I found out the hard way that a 16 hp with a loader essentially has zero brakes. I determined this after driving up a hill loaded, push in the clutch and down the hill she went. I would like to design and build a small hydraulic disc brake for the loader someday. The friction band brake leaves a lot to desire.

So even though this project has gone nowhere, I know what it’s plan is! Lots of weight! And a Front End Loader! Maybe some tire chains off my plow truck too! since there are no hydraulic provisions on this machine, adding a FEL with it’s own hydraulics will take care of that problem.

here's a few pics from the last year. Bendy gets used pretty exclusively with a half ton dump trailer. It's been worked hard and been pretty reliable apart from the other night....