Leaderboard

Started out this am in Lorida, Florida working on a Wheel Horse Suburban transmission. Loosening up a suburban transmission that was locked up today. Added gear oil new gasket and compared RJ brake side plate to a Suburban one. Thought about changing to an RJ plate but Ty his was for Rodney Burger and he had three Suburban tractors!

The second one I am working on today is one that was rebuilt but with a suburban side plate on brake band side! I bought redone in West Virginia! Turns out it is an early RJ version in great condition inside! I am going to change the brake band side to an RJ plate!

mole tunnels everywhere - so attached a roller to a 416 and did some rolling with foliage down was able to get a few neat sunset pics

@stevasaurus asked me to photograph the assortment of axles that I have so he can identify them. Hopefully this will help future readers of this post identify any spare parts they may have laying around or, identify a transmission using the length of the axles taken out. As seen in the picture below, description as follows: Starting on the left hand side we have (3), 1" Axles. The one on the far left as you can see does not have gear teeth in it. Just a hole in one end and a keyway in both ends. That one is 10-5/8" Long. The next two are 1" Axles that came out of Trina's 657. Those have good keyways but both are scored where the wheel bearing was riding. One quite badly. Same 10-5/8" length. Moving to the 1-1/8" Axles we start out at 10-1/8" Long. Then we have 11-1/4" . 11-3/8". 11-5/8". 12" . The last two (without gears) are 13-1/8". The two on the right end (with gears) are a good usable pair from what is believed to be a mid-70s 8-speed. They are 11-5/8" long.

My wife's grandfather gave me a 1967 Sears Custom 6. It was sitting buried in the back of his garage for at least 30 years in Michigan. I'm not too crazy about it, but the family really wanted me to take it when de-cluttering their cottage, so hauled it back to Kentucky. I changed the oil and had it fire right up. After a little carb adjusting I rode it around for 30 minutes and ran great. It has great patina and all the original tires even hold air. Also have the manuals, brochure, and original sales receipt. So I feel bad because it's just not my kind of tractor. I'm not crazy about the looks and it's just not a Wheel Horse. I've been keeping it in the garage because I cannot let it sit outside, but it's really been in the way. Also, without a mower deck I have no use for it. What's your thoughts?

I picked up this Tecky powered Raider last week. She runs and drives, but idles like a Tecky. I gave her a double dose of Sea Foam. Hope it clears up her cough. Got the lights and the cigar lighter working. I took advantage of the 60F temps to clean and paint the front wheels. Old playing cards make great masking. Had to take one tire off and patch the tube. If the stars line up, you may get to know this one at the Big Show.

I don't think anything is better than new red paint

Anybody ever see one of these, looks like the Red Baron's Fokker Bi-plane !!!!! I think I spy a centrifugal clutch to run the impellors. For our Canadian neighbors is this a North of the Border machine? Mike B

Mama wasnt too happy with me about it, but Krystopher got to take his first solo ride on my 753 tonight. Need to find another motor for the Commando V8 so he can ride on his own tractor and give me mine back

I modeled mine after Terry's design. That's mine and ironically enough I just pushed it out of my trailer this weekend. Won't get around to working on it anytime soon but it's at the new house. I'll help however I can :)

Had the Horses out for exercise today, took them all for a lap around the property.

As I have eluded to off and on for the last six or seven months, I am finally going to start a thread on the construction of my new pole building. It's been a long time coming, and I have made and scrapped many plans, but the latest rendition of my new pole building is final, and the components are being delivered on Thursday, 2/27. Back during the summer, I cleared a spot in my woods that is about 20 x 24. We leveled it, tamped it, and that as far as we got due to undependable contractors, weather, vacation, and some health issues with yours truly. I put the 416-H to work in August. Then the rains came and work came to a stop. In September, the family went to Disney World, and while there I visited member @Zeek. After seeing his new metal building, I knew exactly what I wanted to do. But vacation had it's pitfalls. My wife fell and dislocated her shoulder, and I developed a viral infection. She healed and I continued with my virus until late October. Along with that, I continued to have issues with my ongoing Atrial Fibrillation. Then my concrete contractor put me off until the second week of December, and the metal building manufacturer, Alan's Factory Outlet, changed their specifications requiring me to have a larger concrete pad or smaller building. So I scrapped them and contracted with Fetterville Sales of Lancaster, PA. They are doing the entire project from building to concrete. Then the County got in the way. The building permit got held up it the Forestry Department. What??? That department has nothing to do with individual permits, only contractors clearing large areas of trees. So, here is am. I cleaned the leaves off of the leveled area and am now waiting for delivery of building materials on Thursday. Wish me luck. I'm giddy.

@Stepney @JCM @AHS @Oldskool Here's what Trina, her mom and me have been working on this weekend.

I worked on stretching the hood some tonight. Added 12” to it. Talk about a hood that goes on forever! My new welder like to blow through sheet metal at its lowest setting. Might just rust up the new stuff, sand down and coat with linseed oil and not worry about finish welding and bodywork. Might be the “Frankenrod”.

i think i'm going to fab up a support bracket for this muffler stack although the muffler isn't any heavier than the stock one that hung on the front i could see this vibrating down over time

Just rebuilt a 701 transmission (5007) and the most expensive seal was the smallest one, the SKF-7410. That's the input shaft seal. After buying one locally for about $7.50, I found 3 more in a bin that I had overlooked. Duh! But the bad news/good news is that I damaged the new seal putting it in. So I had a spare. Damaged that one too. Found out what was causing the problem and the third one was the charm. Still have a spare.

Well, the brick brace tools arrived and it looks straightforward to use them. Basically lock them into the vertical joints and hook over a scaffold tube bolted to the brickwork above. Self supporting rather than using props from below. Busy with meetings tomorrow so wednesday looks like D-day for doing the cutting for the lintel. I've had a chop at the concrete floor and it is just "oversite" which was spread on the soil to prevent weed growth during building. It breaks up easily and will be no problem to lift up ready to excavate a bit more depth. All looking good so far... Mick

Just a quick video, since a few folks expressed interest in hearing that big Onan twin rumble through a stack. Still cant get over how much grunt this thing has!

Yep, that’s the key. I’ve done this in a basement under a sink in a pinch and it worked great as well. As long as the vertical climb above the sink is as high as possible, water won’t choose to travel that direction. Master Plumber rule #1 applies. If you’re not sure of the rest of the rules... poop runs downhill. hot’s on the left paycheck’s on Friday

Back to removing a stuck aluminum wheel once all the lug nuts can be untightened...... I learned this trick working part time doing front end work at a local tire store. We had a Mercury Cougar XR7 come in for 4 tires - it was quite apparent the owner never had the tires rotated by the tire wear. One of the two younger guys got the job, but neither of the 2 front aluminum rims would budge - even with the large mallet that looked like the kind you see in the circus. The Service Manager told him to reinstall all the lug nuts by hand and back them off 2 turns. He did, and the Service Manager took the car outside to the end of the parking area and did a series of left and right figure eights at about 5 MPH - sure enough, snap, snap and they were loose. Bill

@WheelhorseWes What crankshaft size and length does it have. I've seen some with short stubby or tapered cranks that went cheap. The ones with 3-1/2" long shafts are much more desirable Post the engine spec number if it's readable on the tag..

Started on the frame last night, got the dirt, grease, paint, bugs, grass, dead bodies and mole people off the tractor frame and axle. Heated the old shop up to about 75 and today I'm shooting red.

I am wanting to make a narrow front end for my C101 and would like to see some pictures from any one who has done this. I plan on making the narrow front myself but I also want it to have the factory look. Thanks in advance for your pictures.

Lookin at that Dells I'm thinkin you an pullstart are brothers with a different mother... you feel the love Kev!?!? One of you s have been takin lessons from the other!

Got out to the shop today and did some sanding and painting. The 2X Rustoleum went on nicely and dries fast. Nice not to have a layer of sticky paint all over everything in the shop. Gotta love those paint respirators. Couldn't smell a thing until I took it off and then it was very strong. Had to get out of there.

It's completely OK Eric. Heck I even have an odd ball among my close friends. Ain't that right Jim @WHX24??

I got the tires mounted and tested them out this morning. I'm now able to hop right over downed logs, churn thru mud and snow with ease, and I've got another 1.5" of ground clearance. I never got stuck once and I was really trying. The ride on asphalt is pretty choppy now but I that's a surface I rarely ride on. As an added bonus I didn't have to raise the seat pan at all, the clearance is tight but it's there. The mudlite 2s are very impressive rear tires.

408 miles

A man named O'Brian taught me math once. 2+2=5.

Couple of them set up for 1/2” keyways EB? They sure look wallered out!

to the Commando 8. Always good to see another PeeAaaer, and a York Countian no less. We have quite a few members here in York. I have a few decks also, but I can't compete with the Virginian. You need to come to the Big Show in June and deal with the @857 horse . It's worth the trip just to meet my friend..... THE ONE and ONLY HOOOOWAAARD.

The thing about axle lengths...no idea until you tear one apart. Using information from members that have torn apart transmissions and knowing what transmissions they tore apart, we were able to make a list. Here you can cross reference axle part #, with transmission # , with what differential, with axle length and figure out what you have or what you need. You will find the IPL's for your horse invaluable here. Use the "Manual Section", find your horse, find the drawing of your transmission, the part # for your axles and cross reference the part # here with the length. It sounds harder then it is....trust me...this is easy and needed to happen. 1" axles:: 1. The first 1" axle on the left is for the #5003 and the #5010 3 piece transmissions. RJ58/9 , 1960-400 & 550, and the 1961-401 10 5/8" 2. The next 2 fit the #5007, #5025, #5046, #5048, #5049 and #5053...all of the two piece"3 speeds". Part II in the transmission manual. 10 5/8" 3. 11 5/8" part #5961 new part #101880 used in (manual) #5086 trannys 4 pinion differential & WH #5052 Sundstrand #3100077...also 4 pinion. 1 1/8" axles:: 1. 10 1/8" part # 108361 used in Eaton transaxles left side. 2. 11 1/8" part # 6451 & 11 3/4" part # 6450 These axles are used in the bevel gear differentials (manual) #5045, #5047, #5051, #5059, #5058 hydro (WH) #5054 Sundstrand #3100077. 3. 11 1/4" part #7203 & 12" part #7202 These axles are used in the 10 pinion Limit Slip differentials (manual) #5060, #5071, #5073 hydro (WH) #5062 Sundstrand #90-4026 4. 11 3/8" ??? 5. 11 5/8" part #102764 used in the #5091 trannys 8 pinion differentials 6. 13 1/8" part #105875 used in the #103907 & #103916 trannys 8 pinion differential 13-1/8" part # 108362 used in Eaton transaxles right side. 7. 14 3/4" part #8054 & 14 1/8" part #8055 These axles are used in the 10 pinion Limited Slip differentials in the (WH) #5070 Sundstrand #90-2062 hydro. NOT A COMPLETE LIST...YET

Believe it or not. I'm really really bad at that. I could even be considered... stubborn. I just happen to be one of the luckiest men on the planet and have a woman who lives with me who thinks lives and breathes 99%... just like I do.

You are not giving yourself enough credit. It sounds like you already know how to say "Yes dear."

Is it ok if the COLLECTOR is the oddball??? Not that I'm like that ..... At all..... I'm NO marital expert folks but I think maybe the aforementioned WIFE should be a majority voter in this process. Maybe have her take it out for a cruise or two and mow the lawn? The family really wanted you to go to the trouble to haul that all the way back home ....

Let’s face it, no matter how big you make it, it’s never big enough!! The bigger it is the more stuff you will find to fill it up. I don’t think I’ve ever heard a guy say “ I’ve got this garage/barn that’s just too darn big!”

Decks are hard to find here in Maine .... That being said, I hoard them and I'm in Maine too. If your looking for a rebuild-able 48", drop me a line. I have 3 or 4 of them. Atleast 2 that are more or less solid and straight, with just a few soft spots around the discharge. Also have a good spare complete set of running gear. I like my 48"s and run them often. I often buy a whole tractor just for the deck haha.

I agree that some people shouldn't own a welder and this is a good example. If your going to weld the a nut on a shaft a simple tack weld or two will suffice.

I hope to put a large "shelf" in the rear to run tractors under, then stack some of the smaller ones on the shelf, similar to what @stevebo did.

ACC only hot in run. But I wire mine there anyway. turn switch on listen to pump when sound changes float valve has closed turn to start and she fires right up i do not use "I" because i do not want to take any chance of reducing voltage to the coil while cranking. I tend to leave old pump in place or make a plate. Kohler #240282

Based on the picture of your engine if you have an ignition switch with an M terminal it is the WRONG switch. You need one with an I terminal. The B+ wire from the rectifier goes to the R terminal.

No no no..... There are two types of standard 5 prong ignition switch. Do you have a points, battery ignition? Have you verified that you have the right type of switch? M is magneto. B is battery. R is rectifier / regulator. S, solenoid. A, if it has one is accessory.

I DONT DRINK BUT WHEN I DO,,,ITS WITH FRIENDS/////......AND YES,,,,,,A KOOZIE IS SOMTHING THAT KEEPS OUR FAVORITE DRINKS COOLER LONGER,,,,,

That's a sweet looking tractor. It's my belief that every one should have at least one odd ball in their collection. But if it's absolutely not for you then I would try to find some one who is as passionate about older Sears as we are about our . I know people in my area that fit the bill. I would think that there would be some in your area as well. Maybe hold on to it until you can attend some tractor shows, look for some guys displaying Sears tractors & see if you can find the right home for it.

Not too sure a tiller would be the best thing for an 856, seems like an 8 speed is better unless the ground is sandy.

While that's just a guess, with the gas tank bone dry and shiny clean it sounds like someone may have done a little work to put that tractor up for "Long term Storage" . If they did, they may also have put several squirts of oil in the cylinder. If you've turned the engine over several times, that oil could be "pumped" out the intake and exhaust valves. You're seeing it in the carburetor, but you can't see it on the exhaust if the muffler is in place.

I had Terry (redoyourhorse.com) make a decal of one for me and I just made a new tag. Put the original one away. Couldn’t read anything on it but the model number. The serial number was gone so I used my dad’s birthday, kind of a small tribute. Not sure what the big hole was for but it was in the original one so I put it in this one.

You are talking engine pulley right? Shouldn't be too wild, just 160% of stock speed. Now, couple that with taller tires and you may have to hang on.

Thanks! I hope to bring it along with us if everything turns out like I hope. Might be a little bit of a wild ride though. I’m using a 4” drive pulley with a 63 3 speed trans. It originally had a 2 1/2” drive pulley on it!

Good luck, I’m jealous!! I’ll be following this post! Last December I purchased this 12x24 prebuilt shed/garage and although I absolutely love it I quickly found out I need about four more of these!!!!!