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According to the thinking of many, every time a new paint vendor was selected by Wheel Horse, the color changed slightly due to many factors including proprietary tints, methods of mixing, amount of lead (not available in today's paints), and other factors. So as I have said many times, pick the color you like and that becomes Wheel Horse Red. The key word here is RED.

@Vinylguy Thanks so much Terry... decal instantly appears like it should've always been there.

My husband bought this on eBay tonight! He wanted me to show it off!!! Lol. Kids... Our neighbor says that I’m raising 4 kids and the oldest is the most expensive!!!!🤣 My big boy has him self a new little toy!😂🤪. More pictures when it comes in the mail!

Without going into further detail, I spoke directly with Cecil Pond about this and he said there is no official Wheel Horse red. Like Bob said pick a red you like and that is YOUR Wheel Horse red!

Well the black is no more. Looks alot better in NAPA I.H. Red

I place a piece of wire along side the funnel to allow air to escape, then add the gear oil VERY SLOWLY!

Just got my Block back from the machine shop today along with the crank.The guy that did this for me is well known in hot Rod Magazine for his work on V-8 engines. When I got there today to pick it up he was working on a racing engine which was a 408 chevy engine. I had my 321 bored .010 over and the crank ground and polished to .010 under. He also ground the valve seats as well. He only charged me 80 bucks cash no ticket. The guy is 80 years old and still going!!

Grandpa’s old diesel wood truck is in the shop with a leaky fuel line. I have a bucket under it waiting for it to quit dripping so I can tear into it. This thread is a good reminder of what I should do with the 5-ish gallons of fuel I’ve collected...

It's 1/2 inch rod. To get the length, measure from the hole in the bottom of the index piece to the hole in the handle with the Blade straight and the handle plumb. It's just two 90 deg bends at the ends of the rod with holes near the tips to accept a pin to retain it. The end of the rod is bent up for the index part, horizontal at the handle facing away from the tractor For the lift link, remove the existing link, support the plow blade in the raised position and have the lift handle locked in the raised position. Measure the length between the two holes which lift the plow. Make a 1/4" x 1" flat bar with 3/8" holes drilled at your measurement taken from the holes. You can weld in 3/8" bolts or just use bolts through the holes to connect it.

I drill the block out to 7/8 then press in bushings. This gets done for both upper and lower steering shaft locations. For the upper I then drill a small hole in the bushing for grease to pass through from fitting. I would add a grease fitting for the lower shaft but there is not enough metal there and it would weaken it too much.

Over the past year we've been getting more and more into the used parts end of the business . We are, however taking a different approach: most all of the used parts that we have for sale are either completely restored or mechanically refurbished. All our spindle assemblies are completely disassembled , cleaned and inspected, threads tapped, new bearings/ hardware installed when needed. We will sell used electrical components also, but only after testing. This is just a small sample of what we have so far, but everything seen in the photos is used. Our inventory is growing by 5-10 parts per week. Pm me with any needs.

Pretty interesting results

More or less like this one

Ed, do you know how a transformer works? There is a primary coil and a secondary coil. No electrical connection between them, yet 120V in, 12V out. Your toothbrush base contains the primary coil and the toothbrush handle contains the secondary coil. Setting the toothbrush on the base brings the two coils within the close proximity of each other, just like a little step-down transformer. In other words...it's magic.

I put a car battery in the Cinnamon horse a few weeks ago. Group 51 I think? I hadn't taken the time to properly fasten it down. Today I added an extension nut to the end of the battery tray stud and a bolt into it. @squonk and @Sparky you both noted that the high RPM was some higher than normal. Fixed that as well. Also adjusted the carb mixture in high and low. She's a happy horsey now.

Thanks Kevin and Jada for sharing your science exhibit here! Very cool stuff...can’t wait to see what they look like after a few more days in the colored water. Caleb had an awesome opportunity to sing the national anthem a couple days ago. He was asked during the school day by his drama teacher to sing it before the varsity game. He played a solid JV game with multiple assists, steals, and a handful of points. Then he went, cleaned up, changed, and prepared to sing. I’m very happy with his performance and thankful that he was willing to do it. They opened the event with prayer and then Caleb’s performance. I hope you enjoy it...

The photo shows the front wall I am looking at opening a doorway in. The two air bricks are at the height of the floor joists for our bedroom above. The room would be about 3.5 x 3.5 m which is plenty for parking mowers in.

Lots of opinions on what to use. This thread covers about all of them.

I would say a little prayer of thanks and move on. Running a little rich is a good thing for your engine's longevity. A little Seafoam in the gas couldn't hurt.

I got it, I didn't realize I had to allow the shaft, I think it's the input shaft to go down. When I picked the case up and repositioned it, it allowed me to shift it into neutral and pull the forks out. The BBs just fell into the grease pool in the bottom, made sure to have my finger over the hole so they couldn't fly out. Just have to clean all the old oil out and inspect it now.

If the muffler looks like this one its $85 shipped to you , sorry I don't know what a 414 muffler looks like , @AHS

My guess is part of the leaking problem you are having is the amount of heat generated with all the globbed on welding damaged the seals!

Hey atleast they couldnt weld worth a poo! LOL Should have seen the 1974 sears i had someone did a bang up job welding on the back of it a hitch to mount a ball. What a mess. but when i got done you never knew the mess was there. The key is just take her easy and think it out!

Well after trying to get threads cut into the pipe for exhaust I just went ahead and got two 6 inch pieces and a coupler no one will see it under the heat sheild.... now I just need to figure out how to make one

Does anyone know what model my wheel horse is it doesn’t have the original motor on it and I can’t find a model number any where

thanks and i will have to show him tomorrow about the correct key ;

A whole lot smaller. Can of beans to give ya an idea of its size.

Ya I think you are right. The wife liked this. https://gemplers.com/products/40w-folding-buggy-top-tractor-canopy?variant=21183429836889

Is that right Bob... I could see that... I always thought it was some kind of capacitive charging??? Interesting idea about the tractor batteries Ed . Can we make it 20 batteries tho? Most of mine are electric start! I fear we will both be dead when that is advented tho!

Now I'm wondering if I should dismantle again and paint the exposed aluminum. If so, black or red? Decisions decisions. Dang it

Thank you all for replying back I will post more pictures in the morning and I’ll wipe the bird poop off the seat LOL

A year or so ago @Mows4three Dave sent me a razor that recharges without the help of wires. Blew. My. Mind.

Push in on the blue part get the yellow part to come out of the link. also cut the zip ties

That's funny because that's exactly where they're coming from. I had to order it Friday night when I found out the one I had was no good but It's all good !! It'll be here by Wednesday gives me time for other things anyway!

Ceramic wool may add a bit of cost to your muffler, but it will also add years of usable life. When it comes to refractory's ceramic is the holy grail. Mufflers are used to reduce the noise that goes through the exhaust. They do this by allowing the gases to expand slowly. Exhaust pipe muffler temperature is usually between300 to 500 degrees, but they are also known to handle higher temperatures of up 648.889°C.

Actually, the answer is there is no good way to test a LS transmission when it is out of the case. I would not do the pipe wrench thing, and here is why. You are going to be able to turn the pipe wrenched axle with a pipe wrench both ways, so it is not going to tell you anything. If anything, put the bull gear in the vise and slowly spin one of the axles, the other should go around in the same direction. Slowly is the key word here...if you spin one axle fast, the other will turn in the opposite direction. The LS differential is designed to act like a regular differential when you turn the steering wheel...as if going in a circle. It acts like a Limited Slip only when going in a straight line. So, if you are going straight, and you end up on ice with one tire spinning and going nowhere...the other tire would keep turning and you would not be stuck. The LS differential would still have one axle turning in the opposite direction if you turn one tire fast enough. The only way I know to test the spring strength in a LS transmission is to put the front end of your horse against a post or a tree and let out the clutch in one of the forward gears. Both tires should spin in the same direction. Do this on sand, snow or ice. I would open and clean out the differential. Two reasons...1st, looking at that crud in your trans case...2nd, you have some needle bearings loose in the case somewhere. It is not a big deal to open the differential, just do not force anything and you will be fine.

The engine shops use a special kind of cylindrical grinder that makes the offset for rod journals much easier to set up. A standard cylindrical grinder doesn't have a tailstock that can accommodate the swing for the rod journals.

Drilling out to 7/8" is an excellent plan. However not everyone has a 7/8" drill and press. If you do not consider using a nylon sleeve bearing. Will it last as long?? NO but at $2.99 you can replace it after a couple years...

Holy cow,wow,damn you do some beautiful work!

-5 here. I have heat but will take a bit to warm up. Didn't leave heat on in there last night

Started the tear down yesterday. It's in the minus digits this morning so garage work is low starting today. Hope to have the engine done today.

Nothing wrong with hard copies, I am trying to advance to newer technology to save space and have all info in my shirt pocket.

i done mine on my c-120 went to local menards or if you don't have one of them lowes might they sell bronze bushings just about 2 bucks

Drain over night with the front end as high as possible to get the fluid past the center hump of the transmission floor. Fill with diesel. Drive around a few minutes. Drain. I fill through the shifter. Dipstick hole works as well. Replace the boot if needed.

Bob, I finally figured that out. Sometimes me and fractions don't get along. LOL I put a shim under the input gear and tightened that up. I'm going to open it up one more time and see which pin I used. I have a 3/4" and 11/16" sitting in the bin and had 3 pins to start with. Me thinks I probably put a 3/4" back in.

That’s a mighty nice sphygmomanometer for $24. (I don’t really have anything to offer here, just didn’t want to miss the only opportunity I’ve ever seen to work “sphygmomanometer” into a forum post). stay healthy! steve

I swapped a 42" blade for a 54"er Yesterday and put it on the 520. Thanks Jessie. We'll see if this wide body can make the P220 grunt. I may have to add another set of springs to keep the blade from tripping. Yep, I'm one of the old wimpy and smart guys that even needs a warm cab on his plow tractor.

I put some new tires front and rear on the 753 and took it out for a ride.

Spent a snowy Saturday sucking dust.......filled 10001 rust pits and the spot welds at the back of the hood and finished up all the bodywork on all of the red tins and got everything in high-build primer. Bye-bye hood seam! Next step-sand and paint.