My lowered wheel horse build

[Burnerman 758]

I’m building a lowered 300 series wheelhorse. So far it’s a combination of 3 scrap tractors. 
the frame, trans and tins are from a GT2500 anniversary special given to me by a neighbor with a trashed Briggs. The Kohler M12 is from a junkyard 312 that was roached. The parts tractor I’m using for the build was another older 312. I’ve got the k301 in the garage. The trans was toast. Both axles wallowed out keyways and 1 axle actually broken. 
Anyway! I needed a project and a toy to putt around the neighborhood. I couldn’t find any other posts on how to do the whole thing. I’m trying to keep it cheap using stuff I have on hand and looking as “stock but cooler” as possible. So here we go. 
I’ll update this as I go along. 

[953 nut 51,626]

4 minutes ago, Burnerman said:

I couldn’t find any other posts

Guess you didn't look very hard.   @Ed Kennell, @fast88pu @wallfish and others have posted several.

[Burnerman 758]

3 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Guess you didn't look very hard.   @Ed Kennell, @fast88pu @wallfish and others have posted several.

I read thru all of them. Thanks. 
 A lot of stuff missing and a lot of tin work. Also huge modifications to steering. The one thread the guy built it almost to the end and scrapped it, twice. 🙄
I’m trying to keep it easy and as simple as possible. 
 

[Pullstart 59,644]

 

@giddyap has done a couple hot rods too

[Burnerman 758]

I flipped the front axle and added stops for the steering and temporary plates to hold the front axle from moving. The reverse camber makes steering twitchy but manageable. 

I used spindles with a cotter pin to retain the spindles for now. 
I cut the backend off my donor frame. I drilled out the 4 threaded holes on the donor frame and bolted it to the top of the tractor frame. This raised the trans up to level it with the front. 

I cut the stock trans mount off flush with the bottom of the frame. 

[Burnerman 758]

 The brake linkage wasn’t gunna work now and neither was the clutch. I needed to get it setup like the 72 Commando 800 I have. Brake and clutch in one pedal. Then I have a bare floorboard for the foot throttle where the brake was. 
 The belt was the next issue. I basically copied the drive system on my Old Massey. I added a jackshaft behind the engine and using the short engine to jackshaft belt to clutch. The jackshaft to trans will just be a tensioned belt. 
 

[Burnerman 758]

All of this will be hidden behind the stock tins. I’m not a body guy. 😁

[Wild Bill 633 767]

[Ed Kennell 35,724]

3 hours ago, Burnerman said:

I flipped the front axle and added stops for the steering and temporary plates to hold the front axle from moving. The reverse camber makes steering twitchy but manageable. 

I used spindles with a cotter pin to retain the spindles for now. 
I cut the backend off my donor frame. I drilled out the 4 threaded holes on the donor frame and bolted it to the top of the tractor frame. This raised the trans up to level it with the front. 

I cut the stock trans mount off flush with the bottom of the frame. 

This is exactly how I built mine.   Flipped the frame over, cut out the middle, and added another frame underneath.    Built a cross shaft clutch right behind the engine.  Flipped the axle over and mover the tie rods to the front.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Burnerman 758]

 

I'm trying to make it look as stock as possible. 

[ri702bill 7,313]

Nice work so far. With the front axle flipped, the weight is now on the spindle snap rings trying to pop them off - how did you address that?

[Burnerman 758]

24 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Nice work so far. With the front axle flipped, the weight is now on the spindle snap rings trying to pop them off - how did you address that?

The first set of spindles had snap rings and pulled thru. The axle on my donor had cotter pins. For now I’ve just put a heavy flat washer under the cotter pin. Once I get all of the major stuff done I’ll go back and prolly drill and tap the spindles and add thrust washers and bolts to prevent them pulling thru. 
 I’m still in mock up stage so things change as I go along. Lol

[SylvanLakeWH 24,114]

[ri702bill 7,313]

14 minutes ago, Burnerman said:

drill and tap the spindles and add thrust washers and bolts to prevent them pulling thru. 

Two things come to mind - if you make up a tap drill guide slipover tool out of aluminum or steel, it will allow you to drill the ends centered and straight - a piece of round or hex stock, perhaps 1 incn across by 1-1/2 long.In a lathe, drill thru with the tap drill, then counterbore one end 3/4" slightly oversize by 1/2" deep. You will need to remove the spindles to do this Drill both, go back to the lathe and tap it thru - it now becomes your tap guide.. Did this on the snout of a 6HP Tecumseh to accept a centrifugal clutch years ago - worked well.

Use blue loctite on the bolts at assembly.

[953 nut 51,626]

If you don't have a lathe to make your own center drilling rig just go to your favorite hardware store and look in the Hillman cabinets. Get a 3/4" ID bushing that will slip over the spindle and a 3/8' ID by 3/4" OD bushing.   The smaller bushing will be a press fit into the larger one and guarantee a centered starter hole using a 3/8" bit. Once the 3/8" hole has been drilled follow up with a 25/64" bit and tap the hole for a 7/16 X 20 bolt. 

[ri702bill 7,313]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

The smaller bushing will be a press fit into the larger one

What the Olde Time Machinists referred to as a "Honeymoon" fit....

Edited August 16, 2022 by ri702bill

[Burnerman 758]

Flipped front axle. The plates bolted to the frame hold the front axle from moving so it didn’t lift a rear tire cornering. 

im going to cut out the 3/4” bar so the battery will fit in here. 

jackshaft and clutching links. The backside idlers are from mower decks. The pivot shaft is the old brake pivot shaft welded onto a deck tensioner arm bent to fit. I left that deck idler on. Lol

This is in the clutched/ brake locked position. 

This is brake off clutch engaged. 

the fixed idler keeps constant tension on the belt. Also a deck idler pulley. 

I used the pto plate as a brake pivot. I need to drill a hole in it for the stock return spring to tension the belts. 

The clutch/ brake linkage will all be hind the tin. 

I also realized there’s 2 diff ent style cast pedals. 
 

[Burnerman 758]

I used 3/4”x5/8” brass bearings in the clutch pivot. I have a bunch of 1” sq stock 1/8” wall I got for free. The bearings press in tight. I then used the 5/8” parking brake/brake pivot shaft as my pivot shaft for the clutch. I cut down a deck idler arm and welded it to the shaft after getting things aligned and belt tension/release figured out.

then I cut the parking brake notches off and cut the ends off to use as bell crank arms. 

the brake shaft. 

everything needed to make a clutch pivot minus the deck arm

Edited August 16, 2022 by Burnerman

[Ed Kennell 35,724]

 

You may have to add a belt pinching clip on the clutch pulley to stop the belt so you can shift without grinding gears.

 

 

 

 

[wallfish 15,918]

I don't think you're going to find a complete "how to do everything". Even this build won't explain everything. Custom stuff like this is basically build as you go and use what works, scrap what doesn't. Make it yours, make it unique! Some stuff might not "look right" afterwards so change it. I've scrapped plenty of builds and ideas because they just didn't come out right. What's the point if it' ends up you're not happy with it?  Just do something you're proud of.

All of the steering components need to be tight. especially so at the tie rods. Some Toe In will tighten up some of the "twitchy" ness in the steering

Adding some Caster will help if the wheels start to shopping cart at higher speeds

Is that adjustable belt temporary? Or can it hold up to the forces involved? I've only seen those used for small electric motor applications.

Using a clutch idler on the inside of the belt loop allows for more belt slack to let it slip around the driven pulley for clutching. RJ58s used the idler on the outside of the loop so it can work but it's probably more difficult to dial it in to get it to work right.

 

[Burnerman 758]

Quote

You may have to add a belt pinching clip on the clutch pulley to stop the belt so you canshift without grinding gears.

I know I’ll have to do some tweaking with belt guides but because the brake is incorporated with the clutch; full pressure on the clutch will stop  the trans by applying the brake. 
it’s not a racer. There’s no shifting on the run unless your quick. Lol

@wallfish I copied the belt setup that’s on my 64 Massey Ferguson Executive 8. It clutches with a backside idler and the brake is separate on my year. It works fine. Also a clutch setup 
I want so bad to test it’ll out but I’ve got no where to sit. 😂

 The link belt is temporary. I use it to find the final belt that’s going to work. They are fairly durable if installed properly. We’ve go one on a hvac kicker unit with a 5hp electric motor. It’s been running with a link belt for 4 yrs now 24/7. 🤔 I should prolly check that unit tmw.🫢

 I understand everyone has a different build. I guess I’m trying to make building a cool Wheelhorse out of stuff that would otherwise get scrapped, cheap and easy. 
 

[Burnerman 758]

Quote

All of the steering components need to be tight. especially so at the tie rods. Some Toe In will tighten up some of the "twitchy" ness in the steering

Adding some Caster will help if the wheels start to shopping cart at higher speeds

Thanks for the info. I had it up to 14mph before I dropped the rear and it was ok. 

[wallfish 15,918]

38 minutes ago, Burnerman said:

I guess I’m trying to make building a cool Wheelhorse out of stuff that would otherwise get scrapped, cheap and easy.

That's all I ever do. Buy as less parts as possible and try to get as many original parts on there as possible. Use the scrap pile!

Here's one from a while back

[The Freightliner Guy 1,326]

Did you make a golf cart out of a rj?

[Ed Kennell 35,724]

1 hour ago, Burnerman said:

 building a cool Wheelhorse out of stuff that would otherwise get scrapped, cheap and easy. 
 

Congrats  on that.      And it is obvious you have the desire and skills to build a cool custom.    

 

In addition to old WH junke, I find a lot of use for old bed frames and scrapped weight training machines.

Edited August 17, 2022 by Ed Kennell