Jump to content
ebinmaine

'74 C160 Tecumseh engine tractor. Let's put it to use!

Recommended Posts

JCM

Nice tins on that 160.I remember she didn't roll out all that easy     :angry-tappingfoot:   Nice job so far with that one EB.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

@JCM

Thanks Jim. 

Should be able to get a little more done today. 

We have a bunch of firewood to pull from the forest and I'd like to be using this tractor. 

 

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
SylvanLakeWH

Looks like a couple nice old wooden boats too…

 

:eusa-think:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Looks like a couple nice old wooden boats too…

 

:eusa-think:

Oh there were FAR more than "a couple". 

 

He had unbelievable amounts of boat cushions.

Boat gas tanks maybe 5 to 20 gallons that set in the boat for an outboard... Seriously at least 50. 

Wooden or fiberglass boats?

@JCM ???  I don't remember... At least 7 or 10 there in different places. 

File cabinets.. 10? More? Paperwork. Wow.  

Sooooooo much more..... 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

I wonder how much more power the OHV has over a normal flat head engine?  It would be interesting to test two similarity fitted tractors out next to each other!

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

I wonder how much more power the OHV has over a normal flat head engine?  It would be interesting to test two similarity fitted tractors out next to each other!

 

Exactly why I want to get using it !! 

 

It makes the same HP at the same RPM. 

Torque is lower on the Tecumseh engine. ... But....

It's with a much smaller engine. 

 

A Kohler vs Tecumseh comparison. 

 

Both are 16 HP @ 3600 RPM. 

 

Peak torque & cubic inch are the differences. 

 

Tecumseh:

Displacement: 27.66 cu in. 

Cylinder Bore: 3.50"

Piston Stroke: 2.88"


Max Torque:

25.1 ft-lbs @ 2800

 

 

Kohler:

Displacement: 35.9 cu in. 
Engine Bore: 3.75"
Engine Stroke: 3.25"

 

Max torque: (from a Cub forum)
28.25 ft-lbs @ 2600

 

That's a difference of about 11% torque and nearly 30% cubic inch. 

That's a lot of extra volume to fill. 

It would be interesting to see an actual true to size equal comparison.  

 


Sooo.... How often do we here  REALLY use peak torque??
I'm super curious to know if I can feel it... at all? On big hills? Pulling heavy loads? Never? 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
39 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

nearly 30% cubic inch. 

That's a lot of extra volume to fill. 

 

That lower displacement equates directly to lower fuel consumption!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Oldskool

That's going to make you a real nice "stuff hauler".

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

I've spent some time checking over the wiring and general condition. 

This afternoon I put a battery on the fender, a new spark plug, and turned the key. 

This engine will fire with a spray in the carb but the fuel pump wouldn't pull anything.  

 

I removed the fuel pump and carburetor to clean and inspect.  

 

 

IMG_20220630_190954603.jpg

IMG_20220630_191000653_HDR.jpg

IMG_20220630_193525116.jpg

IMG_20220630_193529843.jpg

IMG_20220630_193539988.jpg

IMG_20220630_200616762.jpg

IMG_20220630_201027727.jpg

IMG_20220630_200631170.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

removed the fuel pump and carburetor to clean and inspect

The carb looks recoverable but the fuel pump may be more trouble than it's worth. Those one-way valves look iffy and that screen with the gasket edge are, I suspect, irreplaceable and I can't imagine it being worth your time to try to fabricate one.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11

Eric... pal...

 

Okay... no... just.... no... :P

 

THAT is... simply not the correct terminals for 'dat battery... :jaw: :laughing-rolling:

 

IMG_20220630_191000653_HDR.jpg.7a48b0787fb7befb22d318ea7b721f47.jpg.6c8a0137f03474393d70be84941d3821.jpg

 

Me thinks you could use some of these or... something...

 

61ypb3WXrQL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

 

Don

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
6 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

THAT is... simply not the correct terminals for 'dat battery

Whassamattawiddeez??

 

Other than a slight (total) interference with the clutch pedal it's ... Well maybe I'll change it.  

 

That's not the battery that'll end up in there anyway. This tractor can and will use a group 51 51r. 

 

6 hours ago, Handy Don said:

The carb looks recoverable but the fuel pump may be more trouble than it's worth. Those one-way valves look iffy and that screen with the gasket edge are, I suspect, irreplaceable and I can't imagine it being worth your time to try to fabricate one.

Agreed on both counts. 

The fuel pump is interesting to look at but beyond practical rebuild. 

Carb ... I think... Is usable.  

 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Oldskool

Lookies like a parts order... is......in order.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Lookies like a parts order... is......in order.

Yessir. 

I didn't look to see if I had a rebuild kit for this carb yet. I want to get the Welch plug out of it so I can make sure the internals are all free.

For the fuel pump I may go with a replacement vacuum pulse type or maybe even electric.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Oldskool
52 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 I want to get the Welch plug out of it so I can make sure the internals are all free.

What procedure do you use to get those little buggahs out?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
11 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

What procedure do you use to get those little buggahs out?

One can use an awl or small punch and put a few indentations in the middle which loosens it up on the edges.

Sometimes by taking that same sharp awl you can scrape around the outside of it and loosen it up some. 

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

Installation works pretty good if you have the right size punch. If not you can use a socket to drive it into place. Doesn't take much pressure.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

I've been thinking it would be neat to have this rig going up to Owl's Head show which is next weekend. 

I'd need to clean up the wiring a little and install an electric fuel pump amongst the other known issues.  

IMG_20220709_124706386_HDR.jpg.cf8f2343ab7bba8e0849c1a49c643095.jpg

 

Here we can see the PO repair for bypassing the PTO switch. 

IMG_20220709_135243886.jpg.a3129e0c7d0a9f0d54462ff5f000bef6.jpg

 

It was wrapped in electrical tape...

 

Today I modified and installed a battery hold down. Also changed the solenoid which I discovered had a loose small terminal when I tried to remove the wire from the ignition switch. 

I didn't have a carb kit in stock for the LMH (big) carburetor. 

Because of that I wasn't able to remove the side welch plug and clean behind it. 

 

2129758139_IMG_20220709_124659202_HDR2.jpg.f1fb98e188dbf2227b50585a0809d9cc.jpg

 

I did clean it out what I could.

Installed the carb. 

 

IMG_20220709_124654687_HDR.jpg.e320ea5724d34883896cd59562129229.jpg

 

 

 

 

Fired it up.. 

It'll run for a bit... Make some fun popping sounds... And die out. 

I believe the carb is still gunkified internally. 

While messing with that the starter began acting up. The Bendix has of course been setting for (decades?) And isn't overly willing to move right. Not disengaging when I let off the key. 

So I pulled the side cover off the engine to see what's happening there... 

We had a talk involving brake clean and dry lube. Now it'll disengage if I make the engine turn completely several times. "Bump" the key and it sticks. Good enough for now. 

While in there I cleaned a few insect nests off the flywheel. 

Today I'll check the pin to ignition coil gap. Finding that the longer pin should be around .010. 

Then get the side cover put back and see about putting a Kohler Carter #30 carb on it.  

This is the carb that was on the original C160 Kohler engine that eventually became Cinnamon Horse. It was very loose and the top linkage was broken. At one point I had tried to hold it in place with solder but couldn't get it hot enough. It needed to be brazed. This time I used J. B. Weld Quick set. 

IMG_20220709_195949976_HDR.jpg.3ae14745a7ee4bab1de4c232af8ecfc0.jpg

IMG_20220709_200018115_HDR.jpg.ffb71bed27346319559d5a11e0576b92.jpg

 

 

If it runs better I'll likely just set the RPM to something at a very high idle. I probably won't have time to create a linkage to the governor but that'll do for show purposes.  

 

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don

@ebinmaine

Gunkified internally (as opposed to externally!) and a black tape-wrapped PO PTO switch bypass are my favs for the day.

 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

I want to begin this post by advising the No Picture Police that I forgot to get pictures...

 

I did get a few minutes three or four days ago to swap out a carb from a Kohler 16.

The good news? It does run better.

Not great but better.

It was good to hear the engine run by itself and seem reasonably close to happy.  

 

I'll get the original carb soaking and get a carb kit and see if I can get it to be a runner with that one.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sparky
38 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I want to begin this post by advising the No Picture Police that I forgot to get pictures...

Where’s  that unsubscribe button! 

  • Haha 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish

Ban that SOB Mike!

I support the No Picture Police! He just ignores the rules and thinks they don't apply to him :ychain:

 

 

  • Haha 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
40 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Where’s  that unsubscribe button! 

 

32 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Ban that SOB Mike!

I support the No Picture Police! He just ignores the rules and thinks they don't apply to him :ychain:

 

 

 

 

:ROTF::ROTF::ROTF:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
SylvanLakeWH

:law-policeblue:

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

Well ladies and gentlemen I've had a second or two to get back on this carb for a second or two.  

 

I popped the Welch plug out. Soaked it for 2 days sprayed 2 full cans of brake clean all around.  

It's definitely cleaner in a noticeable way.  

Next week I'll order a carb kit and see about getting the Tecumseh back to running. 

I did find something rather disconcerting...

Notice in the pic below the choke flapper is contacting the little nubule inside the carb. 

WTH??? 

 

IMG_20220908_191216449_HDR.jpg.99e037848f6ff9a672c762d5553347f0.jpg

 

It won't allow the choke to close because of that.  

 

 

  • Confused 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...