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Monstrosity

My first Wheel Horse

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Handy Don
4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Another down vote here on the new aftermarket cheap carburetors.

I've had several come through here and not one was good.

Others on the site here seem to have decent luck with them but I haven't been so lucky.

 

Probably putting a curse on my luck, but I'm one-for-one on aftermarket Tecumseh carbs for an HH100.

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Probably putting a curse on my luck, but I'm one-for-one on aftermarket Tecumseh carbs for an HH100.

Did you use the direct replacement Tecumseh engine carburetor? Or the ancient secret trick of putting a Kohler 8 horse carb on there?

 

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Handy Don
14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Did you use the direct replacement Tecumseh engine carburetor? Or the ancient secret trick of putting a Kohler 8 horse carb on there?

 

Direct replacement from jungle site. It went on easily and the engine started right up (it surprised me, actually). I didn't want to mess with linkages or other "fitting it in there" issues. Like @Monstrosity and others, I was willing to gamble the $22 for a quick fix.

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Horse Newbie

:text-welcomeconfetti:to :rs: !

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Monstrosity

NOT A FAN DO NOT RECOMMEND NO AFTERMARKET CARBS..... HATED putting this carb amazon carb on here. NOTHING lines up. Don't know what to do about the choke but it's only to move it while the original gets cleaned.. But not going to lie starts right up runs very smooth linkage doesn't allow for wide open throttle because NOTHING LINES UP! Need to be very crafty to make these fit and operate as original. Max helped me remove original carb learned how to use a wrench and screw driver not bad for a 4y/o. Rebuilt the fuel pump and never order stuff from Amazon... 

20220513_192146.jpg

20220513_204206.jpg

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ebinmaine
23 minutes ago, Monstrosity said:

NOT A FAN DO NOT RECOMMEND NO AFTERMARKET CARBS..... HATED putting this carb amazon carb on here. NOTHING lines up. Don't know what to do about the choke but it's only to move it while the original gets cleaned.. But not going to lie starts right up runs very smooth linkage doesn't allow for wide open throttle because NOTHING LINES UP! Need to be very crafty to make these fit and operate as original. Max helped me remove original carb learned how to use a wrench and screw driver not bad for a 4y/o. Rebuilt the fuel pump and never order stuff from Amazon... 

20220513_192146.jpg

 

Looks like he done alright. 

 

Where'd you get the fuel pump rebuild kit??

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Monstrosity

@ebinmaine

Screenshot_20220513-213630_Chrome.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

had to trim down the "T" to fit the pump too

Edited by Monstrosity
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Monstrosity

So I'm toying with the idea of painting frame and engine and leaving the patina on the seat pan, hood and grille. I'm torn about it too. My wife wants a full paint job though.... I would have the sheet metal powder coated and I'd paint the frame, axles and engine myself. I like the look of a fresh tractor.. but this one has the right amount original paint on it to do the patina look.

20220514_102909.jpg

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Handy Don
9 minutes ago, Monstrosity said:

So I'm toying with the idea of painting frame and engine and leaving the patina on the seat pan, hood and grille. I'm torn about it too. My wife wants a full paint job though.... I would have the sheet metal powder coated and I'd paint the frame, axles and engine myself. I like the look of a fresh tractor.. but this one has the right amount original paint on it to do the patina look.

 

I can relate to the dilemma.

I wanted to patina the 854 I'm doing now, but as I got into it there just wasn't enough good paint so it'll get a full paint job.

Without explaining my discovery, I simply told my spouse that "On second thought, you were right. It'll look better painted so I'll do that." :wink:

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ebinmaine
14 hours ago, Monstrosity said:

So I'm toying with the idea of painting frame and engine and leaving the patina on the seat pan, hood and grille. I'm torn about it too. My wife wants a full paint job though

IMHO... And experience...

 

Once you start removing enough components to paint the underlying things you may get bitten by the Restoration bug. Or you'll find once those components are painted they look.... Odd..... Next to the old original paint. 

 

There's a bunch of folks that have done a good mechanical refresh (like in my big list) then paint ONLY the wheels and maybe small items that are bare metal. Brackets or whatever. 

 

The engine and frame will be very receptive to polishing just like the sheet metal.  

 

Just as a bit of info.  ...

Trina and I have done full frame off complete restorations on 3 tractors now. 

Not counting the engine internals it takes about 200-250 man hours. 

Could be done in less time as a more simple repaint but we take everything apart. 

 

It's a lot of very enjoyable time. It's also something that should be Carefully considered if the tractor needs to be used during a given season.  

 

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Monstrosity

Well the itch has started. I started to pull apart the center mast.

 

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ebinmaine
6 hours ago, Monstrosity said:

the itch has started

(Un)fortunately ((??)) There's no known remedy for that. 

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Ifixoldjunk

@Monstrosity Awesome man. Wheel horses can pretty quickly become a life long addiction so be careful🤣

 

as far as the patina goes, I’d just let her be. They’re only original once05CC3CDA-06E6-4C27-AA4A-14AE55112C68.jpeg.ee1d972c8ae0510bc588475a0e93d182.jpeg

Usually for patina, I find just wiping it down with some linseed oil goes a long way. Brings some shine back to the paint. I also touch up the rims as well. Helps to give it a rat rod look. 
 

whatever you do decide to do though, I’m sure your kid will love it. Always nice to have things you worked on with your parents later on in life.

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kpinnc

Peronally, I'd stay away from powder coating steel. Unless the person applying it gives a substantial warranty. Prep is everything with powder coat, and few places do it right. 

 

Also, it doesn't adhere to any fillers. Unlike paint, where you can put rust inhibitor primer on first and use light glazing to smooth imperfections before paint. 

 

Just my $.02...

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Blasterdad
On 5/13/2022 at 8:50 PM, Monstrosity said:

NOT A FAN DO NOT RECOMMEND NO AFTERMARKET CARBS.....

 

:text-yeahthat:Just got one in the mail today, ABSOLUTE JUNK, was just going to use the casting & put oem Kohler parts in it. "Supplied fuel inlet" wouldn't even screw into it, casting is HORRIBLE, a 3 year old could make a better mold out of Play-Dough, Lol. Thought I'd give it a shot just to see for myself, suspicions confirmed, I will always rebuild OEM from now on!

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Monstrosity
8 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

:text-yeahthat:Just got one in the mail today, ABSOLUTE JUNK, was just going to use the casting & put oem Kohler parts in it. "Supplied fuel inlet" wouldn't even screw into it, casting is HORRIBLE, a 3 year old could make a better mold out of Play-Dough, Lol. Thought I'd give it a shot just to see for myself, suspicions confirmed, I will always rebuild OEM from now on!

Yep a $20 aggravation. But it got me out of a dilemma for a weekend but now I have a second carb for the second engine 🙃 

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sjoemie himself
11 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

ABSOLUTE JUNK

Just out of curiosity.. why would one prefer to buy an aftermarket carb. instead of rebuilding the original? Is it because of supply issues with some parts, like are some parts no longer available? Or is it a cost thing, complete new carb. vs. rebuild kit?

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Monstrosity
6 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

Just out of curiosity.. why would one prefer to buy an aftermarket carb. instead of rebuilding the original? Is it because of  complete new carb. vs. rebuild kit?

11 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

 

Time solution not having the tractor down.. for the most part 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

Just out of curiosity.. why would one prefer to buy an aftermarket carb. instead of rebuilding the original? Is it because of supply issues with some parts, like are some parts no longer available? Or is it a cost thing, complete new carb. vs. rebuild kit?

 

47 minutes ago, Monstrosity said:

for the most part 

 

Notwithstanding Mr.  Monster's time and experimentation trials...

 

I've known/spoken to/read about MANY MANY people that are incredibly intimidated by the very idea of "rebuilding a carburetor". 

 

 

Some try it and find it very easy. 

Others seem to think it's a world ending impossibility.

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Horse Newbie
15 hours ago, kpinnc said:

Peronally, I'd stay away from powder coating steel. Unless the person applying it gives a substantial warranty. Prep is everything with powder coat, and few places do it right. 

 

Also, it doesn't adhere to any fillers. Unlike paint, where you can put rust inhibitor primer on first and use light glazing to smooth imperfections before paint. 

 

Just my $.02...

Hey, I powder coated my steel wheels on both my Wheel Horses… and you didn’t stop me !

 

You set me up for failure !  :lol:

 

I still like you though for supplying the rear fender for the Work Horse…👍

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lynnmor
35 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Notwithstanding Mr.  Monster's time and experimentation trials...

 

I've known/spoken to/read about MANY MANY people that are incredibly intimidated by the very idea of "rebuilding a carburetor". 

 

 

Some try it and find it very easy. 

Others seem to think it's a world ending impossibility.

 

Most small engine carburetors are child's play, a few screws, some gaskets and a good cleaning with carburetor cleaner and the job is done.  There are some that are truly a PITA.  The term "rebuilding" often means opening up and cleaning, not machining and restoring parts to new condition.  People often try all kinds of magic elixirs to avoid taking out a few screws and removing the filth.

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

 

Most small engine carburetors are child's play, a few screws, some gaskets and a good cleaning with carburetor cleaner and the job is done.  There are some that are truly a PITA.  The term "rebuilding" often means opening up and cleaning, not machining and restoring parts to new condition.  People often try all kinds of magic elixirs to avoid taking out a few screws and removing the filth.

The one area of carb refurbing I agree to be worthy of trepidation is Welch plugs (some call them freeze plugs but those are only in water-based cooling systems). If someone hasn't shown you how to remove or re-install them they are a bit of a mystery!

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Blasterdad
4 hours ago, sjoemie himself said:

Just out of curiosity.. why would one prefer to buy an aftermarket carb. instead of rebuilding the original? Is it because of supply issues with some parts, like are some parts no longer available? Or is it a cost thing, complete new carb. vs. rebuild kit?

I bought one just for the casting, my old carb's throttle plate shaft bore was worn out. New one was almost as bad, not to mention other issues. Wasn't looking for OEM quality, but definitely not something that would take longer to fix than mine. Rolled the dice...Snake eyes...Oh well, ended up with some parts & gaskets, not going to flip out over $25. :)

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Handy Don

Just chipping in here to note that aftermarket carbs don't always have parts that interchange with OEM carbs. In particular, do not be surprised by needle valves, bowl bolts, and other dimensions are metric not imperial. Their market is total replacement, not parts.

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

aftermarket carbs DON'T ALWAYS have parts that INTERCHANGE with OEM carbs

I've only had ((4??)) Aftermarket carbs here so my experience is limited. 

NONE of the imported ones I had here had ANY interchangeable parts. 

 

 

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