Dan.gerous 2,696 #51 Posted May 5, 2022 2 hours ago, peter lena said: @SylvanLakeWH anther area of detailing that should be done is use a BOTTOM TAP on all related , threaded points , ensuring total thread strength and function , use a cutting oil , that packing puller , is the tool for that job , use dielectric grease on the seal rubber , ensures smooth operation , just my experience . pete Not quite sure what you mean here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,037 #52 Posted May 5, 2022 @Dan.gerous not the rubber but the metal base of the seal itself . drill a small hole , screw in the puller to the metal side of the seal , and pull it out , very easy and simple , the puller becomes the pick ! pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,037 #53 Posted May 5, 2022 @Dan.gerous not the rubber but the metal base of the seal itself . drill a small hole , screw in the puller to the metal side of the seal , and pull it out , very easy and simple , the puller becomes the pick ! pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,037 #54 Posted May 5, 2022 @Dan.gerous , usually add some dielectric grease to the rubber seal to axel point , keep it working smooth and drag free. also good to have spare pit crew at home . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan.gerous 2,696 #55 Posted May 6, 2022 Morning @peter lena Was thinking last night (dangerous I know!) and wondered about the seals - presumably I need to pull the hubs off for this? I don't have a spare hub to use as a puller to prevent breaking the cast unit - is the wheel rim strong enough to act as the makeshift puller do you think? Otherwise will have to fabricate something. Cheers Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,037 #56 Posted May 6, 2022 @Dan.gerous yes your thinking is a dangerous ! only kidding ! in a way you just answered your own question . thats where the lubrication soaking / penetration comes into play . my soaking and tapping of the hub , lock bolt , and key area were vital to its easy movement . had rust run out and more penetrant , started to move . wheel size makes that thought awkward. remove the wheel , so you can concentrate on the hub , lock bolt , key connection . type of puller , is vital , most strength is from , closest connection to hub / axel , mount point , not hub to wheel flange . also never sieze this back together . used a brass drift punch , to get things going , my pre soak work was the changer , noticed easy reaction to a hammer tap , hope you get the same . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 10,558 #57 Posted May 6, 2022 9 hours ago, Dan.gerous said: Was thinking last night (dangerous I know!) and wondered about the seals - presumably I need to pull the hubs off for this? I don't have a spare hub to use as a puller to prevent breaking the cast unit - is the wheel rim strong enough to act as the makeshift puller do you think? Otherwise will have to fabricate something. Lots of good threads here on different approaches to wheel hub pullers. Two most important points: 1) the first you already know--a cast iron hub (rusted on or with noticeable setscrew axle damage) will break before coming off if you try to pull it using the flange, 2) most of the axles are held in with simple C-clips--yank too hard on a hub and you'll have the axle in your lap and a busted C-clip inside the transmission. The last really frozen hub I saw removed was well set up in a 20-ton press (only the axle and the hub) and it took the press to it's limit. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
