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Gingerbread

Wiring

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Gingerbread

I’m new to this and not sure if I’m doing this right, But I have a 211-4 with a Briggs 11hp and the thing was sold in my town years ago when it was new. it was my grandfathers till now so it’s a nice piece of history. and it has some electrical problems I can’t figure out, It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch. And now it just blows the fuse. I messed with it when it happened but I have been away in the service for about two years, but now I’m on leave and want to fix my pride and joy but don’t know if my wires are all in the right spot. And my brother actually hooked the battery up backwards by accident for a few seconds while I was away so don’t know if that did anything. So any helpful suggestions or pictures for an example to look at. Thanks

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roadapples

:WRS: and thank you for your service...:flags-usa:

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gwest_ca

Do not know your model number so this may not be correct

 

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953 nut

:WRS:

Thanks for being a defender of our freedom. What branch of the service are you in?

We are always glad to hear of people showing some love to the old family :wh:. Looking at the wiring diagram that @gwest_ca provided there are a couple things that come to mind. Is the switch you installed the correct switch, 103-991? Is the PTO switch to the blades turned off? Have you inspected all of the wires to see if there is chafing or mouse damage. The wires to the electric PTO switch need a very close inspection, also the white wire leading to the engine. Both of these wires are powered when the key is turned on.

If you have a 12 volt test light you can use it in place of the fuse while testing. If there is a short it will glow brightly, when the short circuit has been eliminated it will go out.

Hope this helps.

457514016_Screenshot(22).png.270bb11fff54c77ab89ba74251df0f89.png 

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Achto
9 hours ago, Gingerbread said:

 It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch

 

:WRS:

 

If you still have the old ignition switch, compare it to the new one. Not all Indak switches are configured the same, the terminals can be in different positions. If this is the case then you can use a small screw driver to remove the terminals from the plug and place them where they need to be. One very important note: Your new switch can not have a terminal marked "I" on it, if it does you have the wrong switch for a Briggs engine. Your switch should have a terminal marked "M", this should be hooked to the kill wire for the coil. 

 

Also let's hope that the new switch did not send positive battery power to the ignition coil. This would destroy the coil immediately. Not the end of the world as they still sell coils at a reasonable price, just a little more work. 

 

Edited by Achto
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Gingerbread

So I looked at my switches and the original on the left two tabs and the bottom are mark ABS from top to bottom and the one off to the side is 3, the new one I’m looking at GLBMS with nothing on the side any idea how to find the actual one online? Hard to find an older oneimage.jpg.d120d6f60c1830129737d5e66fee1953.jpg

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Gingerbread

And my wires that are all near the steering column  look fine I cleaned some ends up and the only damaged looking wire that I tried to fix was one that went behind the starter and to the top of the engine. And the pic is what I’m guessing is the serial/model number than it says made in USA 7022

image.jpg

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Achto
28 minutes ago, Gingerbread said:

new one I’m looking at GLBMS with nothing on the side any idea how to find the actual one online?

 

New switch

G = ground wire

L = lights, (could also be used for the charging wire)

B = battery positive

M = magneto (kill wire from your ignition coil)

S = Starter ( wire to your starter relay)

 

Marking on the old switch

A = alternator (charging wire)

B = battery positive

S = Starter

The rest should be marked as well, sometimes on the opposite of the term as the rest.

 

Look through the manuals section on here and find your tractor. It will have a part number for the factory switch, you can use that number to do a search. Or you can move the wires in the switch plug so that they go where they need to.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/

 

 

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gwest_ca

We do not have an original wiring diagram for the 1987 model but suspect the 1988 wiring above is the same. The ignition switch is the same.

 

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953 nut

103-991 is a very common switch, most places like Tractor Supply will have it. Take another look at the switch you have and see if the terminals are the same.   The "L" and "R" terminals are the same thing depending on the manufacturer.

103-991.jpg.8f84a2a4c2f9b881f050e58062cda5e1.jpg

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Gingerbread

Okay after a long day of checking old stores an old man happened to have an ignition that matched my old one, I didn’t know that about that the post would be different and that will be a problem so thank all you guys for that, I checked all my wires and fixed one, I put on a new solenoid because the other one was cracked and that bad boy fired right up now I just need to get my carb Set and I’ll be mowing soon. Thank you guys for the help

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