More C-125 / K301 questions with photos...

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

Here's something else I'm curious about:

My 175 has this hole above the hydro pump in the fender pan (from an unknown model):

 

Also note that there's no hole in the seat 'cradle'.

 

This 125 pan (also from an unknown model) does not have the same hole cut out:

Also note that the hole locations are different.  Where the seat switch is on the 175 there is no hole on the 125, and there's a couple 'extra' holes on the 125.

 

 

But oddly, the seat 'cradle' DOES!  (I believe this is original to the machine)

 

 

What's the deal with these differences?  What's the purpose of the hole in the seat cradle?  Or, for that matter, in the fender pan on the 175?

 

What holes did the original plastic fender pans have in them?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

3 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Just ordered  2 sets of decals from Terry. One set for the 341, and a decal for the MV16. I seem to have very little luck with his web site order form though. I usually email. When corresponding with him, it can get confusing. At least for me. One day you get an email from Redoyourhorse. The next time it comes from mcg503@comcast (midwest custom graphics), but then I am easily confused.

 

Thanks Greg.  Will he print your serial numbers and stuff?  I'm going there now...  on second thought, I need to hit the sack, I'll check it out tomorrow.

 

Naahhhh, I went there now.  AWESOME!  Thanks, I'm going to place an order tomorrow.

 

Edited December 2, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Gregor 4,838]

5 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I need to hit the sack,

I just got up !

[Gregor 4,838]

Seat pan and cradle from the 175. I believe it originally had the plastic fender pan. Really no use for the large square hole with the Sundstrand trans.

 

Fender pan and seat from the 125. The large square hole allows access to the Eaton trans for adjustment

As far as the original plastic pan, it is long gone. Too bad to save.  Note the small felt stickies on the pans. This  is where the seat cradle springs rest. Saves paint. Is it possible your seat springs a in the wrong place?

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

8 minutes ago, Gregor said:

Is it possible your seat springs a in the wrong place?

 

Well, I don't know!  They're where they always were on my 175, I never moved them.  I'm the second owner and know the history of it since new.

 

Is it possible that yours are in the wrong spot?  

 

OK, so the fender pan on my 175 came from a machine that had an Eaton.  Gotcha...

And the one on the 125 probably came from a machine with a Sundstrand.

 

Maybe the seat cradle on the 125 is NOT original to the machine... I have no way of knowing that.

[Gregor 4,838]

3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Is it possible that yours are in the wrong spot?  

 

Absotootalootly !

[peter lena 8,031]

@Jeff-C175  @Snoopy11  , those cable springs assists , work best with a ,"  where it wants to be cable setting " , after its initial mount point , DO NOT FORCE THE CABLE IN PLACE , find its sweet spot for function , as you secure it , verify its continued ease of use, SUPER LUBE  , secure it there ,add springs , should work like butter , on those LED TAIL LIGHTS  , have them on my 3 horses , use electrical cable lugs , as your grounding point to frame / battery ground point.  this is how mine is set up , solid bright headlights and tail lights , this is not in the book , but it works consistently. keep tweaking on it  , pete    

[peter lena 8,031]

@Gregor , notice anything on your flat idler pulley ?  like wide rubber side shields on that larger bearing ? that is the only type of bearing that I  look for , pocket screwdriver , carefully remove seals , clean out original " grease " refill with lucas xtra heavy duty , hi temp anti sling , polyurea, no more failures or noise . why not ? another thing about a larger bearing , in the original type of pulley , you can insert a bronze 3/8 "  I/D  bushing easily and eliminate problems , did that many times . no failures and no noise , pete  

[peter lena 8,031]

@Gregor , those belt idler pulleys , with the original tiny zero side shield bearing access , was just something i looked at ,as a failure point. if you are going to replace it , why not make it better ? local bearing distributors , have dozens of alternate same size pully types with larger bearings , for industrial applications .5/8  or 3/4 " bearing , you bet ! get the matching 3/8 ID BRONZE INSERT . exact fit , do the lucas grease change out , lubricate all related movement areas , tell me how easily and quiet that works !  done that at every bearing failure point on my horses , do not worry about the wheel horse police , make your stuff bombproof , pete  

[squonk 38,815]

On 11/30/2021 at 1:01 PM, pfrederi said:

No!! it is a mix the top 4 gaskets on the left  are Carb to engine and air cleaner base to carb body.  Next 2 are bowl gasket and splash guard.  Bottom two one is for the bolt that holds the bowl on and one for the float valve seat..  No idea what lower right scrap piece is ...

I bought that kit. That little piece of scrap isn't in there. 

[oliver2-44 8,816]

@Gregor, @Jeff-C175, @Snoopy11

I like to use a dry Teflon/Silicone or Moly lube on moving parts like hydro linkage, cables and pivots.

We used CRC products back at the Dams where I retired from, so I've continued using them at home.  But there are many good ones out there.  

Some brands market a silicone lube as Dry Garage Door Lube.  

This is one that I use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013J84BY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?SubscriptionId=AKIAJO7E5OLQ67NVPFZA&ascsubtag=904063481-2-1585476352.1638022314&tag=shopperz_origin1-20

Using my tractors for mowing and dirt work grease type lubricants attract too much dust, which I feel accelerates wear. 

So a wet grease only goes in a grease fitting for me.

I also like to use this Dry Moly Lube spray. Again, there are several good brands out there.  

https://www.kljack.com/products/crc03084/

 

PS

Back when my oldest sons 1st Pine Wood Derby Car lost badly, I learned winning cars "Dads" helped significantly with the speed modifications to the cars.

When your at a race and "Dad' won't let Son handle car, you figure out who built the car. 

I wanted my sons to learn, so I taught them to polish the the nail axles using the drill press and predrill nail axle hones in the wood block nice and square on the drill press. But they had hands on, and they won!

The next year and through 3 sons, I made my shop available to any of the Cubs and their Dads/Moms. Over the years I guided hundreds of kids hands on a Sears Bench Top Jig Saw, and Drill Press. 

Then we sprayed the nail axles and plastic wheel holes with the CRC Moly Lube, and got the cars at max allowable weight. 

Taught them just like my sons, all the Scouts were my sons after all, and their cars beat my sons cars some years.

Moly Lubed Axles were always in the top 3 Winners Circle!  (later I learned dads were even ordering 'jeweled" axle nails instead of using the ones supplied in the kit.)

Yes, their was a part of me, that loved seeing a car that a kid had his hands all over, with a kid cutting and paint job beat those "Dad" showroom corvette, camaro. mustang built cars.

One of my sons even won with a square block of wood one year.  

Sorry to get off track.

 

[Handy Don 10,522]

37 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

I wanted my sons to learn, so I taught them to polish the the nail axles using the drill press and predrill nail axle hones in the wood block nice and square on the drill press.

Only way is hands on for both the building and the competition.

In our pack, dads were warned that excess involvement would cause disqualification and subsequent embarrassment for, and in front of, their scout (judge was an excellent craftsman with no stake in the races). Rare that the message didn't get through. 

My strategy was for me to demonstrate on samples or prototypes so my son could understand the methods but for him to do every bit of the work on the car he would enter. He made some decisions that were about style and not speed and that put a smile on my face.

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

I bought that kit. That little piece of scrap isn't in there. 

 

I think it's a scrap of the photographer's Kimono.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

7 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

He made some decisions that were about style and not speed and that put a smile on my face.

 

Wait... lemmee guess... he painted them RED ! 

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

Sliced open a piece of heat shrink because I'm cynical... I don't believe this is acceptable!  

 

 

So of course that means I needed to go over every inch of wiring.  Besides, it was all tangled and twisted.  There were a number of crimp butt splices and other 'questionable' wiring.  So now it's all cleaned up and ready to go:

 

 

Those with very keen visual senses might notice an error that I made!  Need to fix that.  Works fine... if you're standing on your head!  This is a test!

 

 

Still to do...

1. Shim steering shaft to get rid of excess free play.

2. Replace front wheel bearings... or at least shim them up if they aren't bad.  There's about 3/16" of axial free play.  I hope the spindles are OK!

3. Reinstall fender pan, seat, foot rests, side panels and console panels.

4. Move rear axle plow mount from the 175 to the 125 and install plow.

 

Need another set of wheel weights!  Have the chains already.

 

 

Edited December 4, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Snoopy11 5,713]

My only gripe, @Jeff-C175 is that the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter is suppooosed to be Red...

 

 

Just sayin... 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

9 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Sliced open a piece of heat shrink because I'm cynical...

 

Why not just use one of these:  

 

 

Don 

[Snoopy11 5,713]

That is some  looking wiring there, Jeff.

 

Lookin' awesome! 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

On 12/2/2021 at 10:48 AM, squonk said:

I bought that kit. That little piece of scrap isn't in there. 

Was that... with... or without your spectacles on? 

 

Don

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

5 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

wire from the starter solenoid to the starter is suppooosed to be Red...

 

Fixed it for ya, and the others also.  But that's not the error...  the 'standing on my head' part was a clue!

 

Actually the two smaller wires ARE red, under the heat shrink tubing and inside the split loom.

 

That starter cable was in such good shape that I decided that I didn't care if it was black.

 

[Snoopy11 5,713]

Jeff... that is just cruel... you had me going there for a second... I thought you actually changed it to a red wire. Second look revealed that you committed tracery...  

 

Anyway, you could always buy some red electrical tape if you wanted to make it right... 

 

Don

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

The machine is on all fours again.  I took this short video hoping that the 'rattle' noise would be able to be heard.  Listen as I'm bringing up the RPMs you should hear the rattle I hear.  Louder and sharper of a sound in person.

 

Would really like to hear from the seasoned vets on this, whether they think it's the balance gears about to explode, or what...

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xbZKgaFH55ohbzKn9

 

If you click on that link it should go right to the video.

 

[Handy Don 10,522]

It does come through on the video, but I'm not nearly expert enough to diagnose it.

[Gregor 4,838]

Just my opinion, but,......Any 40 year old Kohler K series that does not tick, tack, tock, rattle, clatter, bang, pop, sputter, cough, hic-cup, spit, or get cantankerous once in a while,  probably won't start. Rebuilt or not,

[Snoopy11 5,713]

Really sounds like a valve. Sounds like intake side. Sounds like loose lash. 

 

What's your valve lash set at? 

 

Don