More C-125 / K301 questions with photos...

[Snoopy11 5,713]

Just now, Jeff-C175 said:

 

My motivation was that Doc told me I have it too... still at 97% capacity, and that if I quit smoking now, it shouldn't be much of a problem in the future.

Well, although it might not be something you want to hear... I am your friend, and I am going to say it anyway. Prayer and God's help will help you do this. 

 

We can't do all things by ourselves, but we can do all things through Christ who strengthens us. 

 

Don

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

On 11/24/2021 at 7:47 PM, Maxwell-8 said:

Your problem would seem to be a worn backet? wrong spring angle?.

 

In regard to the clutch 'jumping' into engagement, I believe I know how to fix it.  Not sure of the WHY though... nothing is really terribly worn.

 

Notice how straight up and down the lever (green lined) is when disengaged.  I have not loosened the 1/4-20 stop bolt yet, there may be a slot underneath that allows some adjustment, if there is, then fine... just move it forward about an 1/8" or so.  If not, time to break out the round file and slot that hole so the stop can be moved forward.  That mechanism needs to go past 'top dead center' a little bit in order to stay disengaged.

 

Note: Spring is loosened for finger safety!  One does NOT want to be fooling with that mechanism with that spring engaged!!!!

 

 

Additionally, the highlighted parts are missing in action.

#36 and #29 are 'wave washers' intended to take up slack and limit the 'rattlyness' of the mechanism.  #31 and #50 are standard flat washers for the E-clip to ride against.  They also take up slack.  #39 was a standard 1/4-20 bolt and clamped down tight on the spring loop.  That needs to be a 'stop nut' (nylon insert) and NOT clamped tight to the spring!

 

 

 

Edited November 27, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[kpinnc 10,715]

Only thing I can add on the throttle cable routing is make sure it doesn't go near the bottom of the governor arm. I routed the Charger that way and it kills the governor function. Put a load on the engine and it will bog down and shut off. 

 

My cable didn't touch the governor arm- until it tried to pull the link towards open... 

 

Your clutch handle is nice! On mine, the bracket slots were worn and I couldn't stand all the rattling- in addition to it not working smoothly if at all. I just removed it altogether. I hooked the spring onto the bolt that is directly below your spring in your pic with a nylock nut to hold it.

Edited November 28, 2021 by kpinnc

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

48 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

Your clutch handle is nice!

 

Thanks!  It may be the only reason I keep the clutch function!  

 

48 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

couldn't stand all the rattling- in addition to it not working smoothly if at all. I just removed it altogether. I hooked the spring onto the bolt that is directly below your spring in your pic with a nylock nut to hold it.

 

RIght.. basically just remove the red lined items and leave the idler on the belt at all times. 

 

 

I was thinking about that, but I went through it all very carefully, added a wave washer here and there, slotted the hole for the stop bolt so the lever goes over center and stays there.

 

I also opened the slot up about an 1/8" wider because the lever was hitting there.  You can see it is laying on the slot in the pic below. That's actually where most of the noise seems to come from, the lever slapping the sheet metal.  I did this on my 175 years ago and it made a big difference.

 

  and also on the dash plate to match.  

 

I haven't run it yet, but I can tell it's all nice and snuggly and shouldn't rattle... hopefully!

 

Edited November 28, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

38 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

throttle cable routing is make sure it doesn't go near the bottom of the governor arm.

 

Good tip, I think I'm well clear of that!

 

[kpinnc 10,715]

49 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I haven't run it yet, but I can tell it's all nice and snuggly and shouldn't rattle... hopefully!

 

Sounds like you're all set. The one on the Charger was awful. It didn't help that while I had a new belt, it wasn't that fractional oddball OEM belt. I know, I know... OEM is best, but I didn't have one or have time to get one. 

 

Oddly enough, removing all those links seemed to make the belt slap disappear. Runs smooth as can be, with or without the belt guard in place. 

[peter lena 8,053]

@Horse Newbie whenever  you are attempting to recover / refit anything , verify its intended function , if you just duplicate it , you have no gain, been doing that view forever . don't  worry the original build police , they don't care . for me a spring pull on either side of a cable finish point , just makes sense. eliminate any binding point , increase cable clips , IMPORTANT  from starting cable point , where DOES THE CABLE WORK BEST ?. don't just jam it in any ware , there is a very smooth setting that moves without effort , find that, ( and make sure its in your layout ). add super lube in cable and those 2 opposed pull springs , and you have very easy control, pete

[peter lena 8,053]

@Jeff-C175  @Snoopy11  , those cable springs assists , work best with a ,"  where it wants to be cable setting " , after its initial mount point , DO NOT FORCE THE CABLE IN PLACE , find its sweet spot for function , as you secure it , verify its continued ease of use, SUPER LUBE  , secure it there ,add springs , should work like butter , on those LED TAIL LIGHTS  , have them on my 3 horses , use electrical cable lugs , as your grounding point to frame / battery ground point.  this is how mine is set up , solid bright headlights and tail lights , this is not in the book , but it works consistently. keep tweaking on it  , pete    

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

These came out of the drying room this evening.

 

 

Got the rear LED lights mounted on the fender pan along with the LED 'bullet' flood / backup lamp and made a wiring harness.  I'll post pics of that tomorrow.

 

I mighta messed up though.  I added a toggle switch under the seat for the flood.  It didn't dawn on me that it might be too tall and that the seat would hit it !  RUT-ROW REORGE! 

 

So I might have to rethink the location of that switch.  The solution I'm leaning toward is actually drilling a clearance hole in the seat bracket so I don't have to move it, since that would involve re-doing part of the harness I just spent a lot of time making.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

Looking around for the fuel pump kit I happened upon this :

 

 

I know the circled parts are for the fuel pump, but what about all those other doo-dads?  They look more like carburetor parts to me?

 

Is this a kit for the fuel pump AND the carburetor?

 

[Snoopy11 5,713]

11 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Is this a kit for the fuel pump AND the carburetor?

 

NOPE! I had to edit my post here, as I misread your post, Jeff. Now that both my eyes are open... @pfrederi is right, those others are carb gaskets which would be good to have on hand... There isn't a lot of information on pump rebuilding out there... It'd be nice if you took some video/pictures... 

 

Just sayin' 

 

Don

Edited November 30, 2021 by Snoopy11

[pfrederi 17,146]

No!! it is a mix the top 4 gaskets on the left  are Carb to engine and air cleaner base to carb body.  Next 2 are bowl gasket and splash guard.  Bottom two one is for the bolt that holds the bowl on and one for the float valve seat..  No idea what lower right scrap piece is ...

[Southern_Secret 425]

On 11/24/2021 at 6:39 PM, Snoopy11 said:

I knew that part number off the top of my head... 

@Snoopy11 working in and owning a parts house, I SEE THE WORLD IN PART NUMBERS 

[Snoopy11 5,713]

11 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

No!! it is a mix the top 4 gaskets on the left  are Carb to engine and air cleaner base to carb body.  Next 2 are bowl gasket and splash guard.  Bottom two one is for the bolt that holds the bowl on and one for the float valve seat..  No idea what lower right scrap piece is ...

@pfrederi... you are 100% right. 

 

I misread Jeff's post. I thought he was talking about the items he circled as going to the pump. Considering the other parts... yes, those are carb parts.

 

My bad. Can't be accurate all the time... 

 

Don

 

 

[Snoopy11 5,713]

BUT, Jeff, if you are wanting to rebuild the fuel pump... why not just buy this kit? 

 

Unless you are really wanting all the other... stuff...? 

 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

I will say though Jeff, when I look up part number 230675, I know what you mean about varied results in products... 

 

Don

[Gregor 4,838]

34 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

No idea what lower right scrap piece is ...

I have been trying to figure that out myself.

[Snoopy11 5,713]

2 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I have been trying to figure that out myself.

Odd thing is, it only comes in the MotoAll brand kit... 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

The only place that I can find where you can get each one of those parts is:

 

https://randysengine.repair/products/kohler-230675-3-fuel-pump-repair-rebuild-kit-for-metal-pumps-on-k301-k321-k341-k181?variant=1907935739919

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

And by the time you buy the above kit from Randy... you easily could have bought a new fuel pump... 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

Not to mention, the repair kit from Randy is sold out...

 

Don

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

 

14 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Is this a kit for the fuel pump AND the carburetor?

 

3 hours ago, pfrederi said:

No!!

 

Isn't that a YES Paul?  Parts for the carb AND for the fuel pump?

 

3 hours ago, pfrederi said:

No idea what lower right scrap piece is ...

 

I got the kit yesterday.  That scrap piece is NOT in the package!  Probably something that was in the package they sent to the photographer and he didn't know any better!

 

2 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

why not just buy this kit?

 

Because for only a couple bucks more I get all that other stuff too!  Whether I need it or not!  ... and I do plan to fool with the carb eventually.

 

4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

It'd be nice if you took some video/pictures... 

 

I will, unless my hands are all greasy grimy gopher guts, then I don't want to touch the phone.  I need a camera assistant!  

 

 

Edited November 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

2 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

The only place that I can find where you can get each one of those parts is:

 

And from what I've read, the check valves are not easily replaced!  I just want to change the diaphragm and the gasket to the engine.

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

With the stop bolt hole slotted and the bolt moved forward about a quarter inch, the mechanism stays dis-engaged nicely.

 

Compare the 'angle of the dangle' to the previously posted pic before modification.

 

Edited November 30, 2021 by Jeff-C175