Jump to content
Jeff-C175

This should work, but a question or two...

Recommended Posts

Jeff-C175

I'm thinking of replacing the keyswitch on my machine with a toggle and a pushbutton.  I need to replace the keyswitch again and can't seem to find something that meets my quality standards.

 

I'm open to sourcing suggestions for a QUALITY keyswitch of course, but in the meantime:

 

I'm going to check my existing switch later today, but thought I'd put this out there.

 

Does the keyswitch 'BREAK' the rectifier (regulator) connection when going to START as in the bottom schematic as opposed to the top?

 

image.png.469afa1341b8532a4b2c3dce443d0213.png

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

I know this isn't the actual question you're asking... 

What BRAND of key switch have you been using and what model of machine is this?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

:text-yeahthat:Better yet how is the engine shut down? Grounding points or removeing power to the coil? 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

What BRAND of key switch have you been using

 

I actually don't know!  It's been a few years. (but not long enough that this one should be going flaky already!)

 

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

what model of machine is this?

 

C-175

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
Just now, WHX?? said:

Grounding points or removeing power to the coil? 

 

Removing power.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I actually don't know!  It's been a few years. (but not long enough that this one should be going flaky already!)

 

 

C-175

 

 

 

My personal experience shows me that a Cole Hersey brand is going to be your best bet. Or, believe it or not.... Getting a used original. I've had okay luck with Sten's. A little better with Standard.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

Echlin KS6180 or Grote 82-2156

 

103529

Push button

 

Echlin ST26 236568

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Regulator is powered on this one in start

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Regulator is powered on this one in start

 

Thanks Garry,  I haven't checked the one I have yet, but that answers the questions.

 

I'm not concerned with shedding the Accessory load as these appear to do, all that's on that circuit is the lights and I normally don't use those, but was concerned about the regulator.  Seems it's a 'non-issue'

 

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Echlin KS6180 or Grote 82-2156

 

Thanks Squonk!  I actually have a lot of parts in stock so I shouldn't need to purchase anything for this conversion... IF I decide to go ahead with it.  I'm going to keep looking for high Q 5 terminal keyswitches.

 

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Echlin KS6180

 

This one does look pretty heavy duty!  Only 4 terminals but that shouldn't be a problem, the regulator and the ignition can both go on the ignition terminal.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
3 hours ago, squonk said:

Echlin KS6180 or Grote 82-2156

 

103529

 

I have used this one several times. Available at Auto Zone.  Edit...This is a 4 pole switch, not 5

 

Not sure this answers your question, but IIRC, you have a 175.

1596942232_Screenshot2021-10-04at15-37-58Tractor1982-83C-SeriesSingle-Tractor1982-83C-SeriesSingleWiringColorp37-p40pdf.png.27be93a58af7c5f8e164a02d39cf62b1.png

Edited by Gregor
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Question... Why would you want the regulator to be connected in cranking mode????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
37 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Question... Why would you want the regulator to be connected in cranking mode????

Wouldn't do any good, but on the other hand, wouldn't do any harm, would it?:confusion-shrug:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
43 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Question... Why would you want the regulator to be connected in cranking mode????

 

There's no 'reason' for it Paul, but the keyswitches do NOT disconnect it during cranking:

 

image.png.7ae1af6fd622901f4fd946ce14bf4cbe.png

 

The question was if there was any reason to DISconnect it while cranking, i.e. would it damage the regulator.  The answer appears to be no, it won't damage it as the stock keyswitch leaves it connected.

 

So this would work if I decide to go that way:

 

image.png.5bc9d87d9e90b6179f805140f7bfb1b8.png

 

BUT, I'll probably just go with one of the 'better' grade of keyswitch to eliminate having to drill another hole.

(even though some fancy lighted toggles and pushbuttons might look cool)

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, Gregor said:

This is a 4 pole switch, not 5

 

Which would be fine because the IGN and REG can be on the same terminal.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don

 

10 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

lighted toggles and pushbuttons

Sounds pretty cool to me. 'Course when would I be out in the dark to need them?!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175

This one looks exactly the same as the Echlin and Grote.  I wonder if they are all the same manufacturer just branded differently?

 

image.png.f674101e78a2ea2e34e998842ffb4b9a.png

Edited by Jeff-C175

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
5 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

when would I be out in the dark

 

My bride seems to think that's normal for me!

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
Just now, Jeff-C175 said:

 

My bride seems to think that's normal for me!

Well, "in the dark" as general situation, yes, often. :lol:

But on the tractor, nope. Village ordinances are pretty strict about nighttime noise.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Chuck Masters

I'm late to this party, but I'm hoping one of you knowledgeable guys can tell me if all this is applicable to a '93 312-8.  I've been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start mine for years because we haven't been able to find a switch that works properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
2 hours ago, Chuck Masters said:

I'm late to this party, but I'm hoping one of you knowledgeable guys can tell me if all this is applicable to a '93 312-8.  I've been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start mine for years because we haven't been able to find a switch that works properly.

Hi there and welcome.

Your best bet, assuming you have some ability with low voltage electrics, is to look over the wiring diagram in the manual for your tractor.

I've attached links to the illustrated parts manual (so you can get the switch part number) and the owners manual with the wiring diagram.

Come back with detailed questions any time!

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
2 hours ago, Chuck Masters said:

been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start

:WRS:

Many times an electrical problem can be cured by cleaning and tightening all electrical connections. If you use a small jumper wire from your battery "+" terminal to the small blue wire on the solenoid will it close and activate  the starter? Take a look at this diagram of your starter circuit to guide you. 

1595239536_Screenshot(89).png.5a518f788116bbd7669d9c5785c4993c.png

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
7 hours ago, Chuck Masters said:

I'm late to this party, but I'm hoping one of you knowledgeable guys can tell me if all this is applicable to a '93 312-8.  I've been turning the switch on and shorting the solenoid to start mine for years because we haven't been able to find a switch that works properly.

 

My bet is there's some trouble with the PTO switch or the neutral switch.

 

Just to cover the basics, you aren't trying to start it with the PTO engaged, are you?

 

And you've got the pedal mashed down also?

 

You need a multimeter to track this down.  Do you own and know how to use one?

 

 

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • BenBen's416
      By BenBen's416
      1995 - early model 73420, 416h, P216 - 900+hrs (New owner - 3rd mow)

      Tractor just died on me and left me stranded 3 blocks from the house... it just quit exactly like I'd turned the key off. No sputter, no hiccups, no warning lights, just 'off'. Turn the key and there's no power, no lights, no indicators, nothing. My 'thoughts' were ignition switch, blown fuse, safety switch (jumping-starting was futile). When checking fuses, the 25amp fuse came out with a part of the coupling+wire attached... there's more crud, dirt, crap, corrosion than I expected - it's bad! However, I 'think' the fuse 'issue' was a result of me pulling the fuse & not the initial cause of my breakdown. Wish I had taken pics - but the weather/storms came and forced me to out & they are due to return today.

      So I'm in a bind lol. My 'plans' are to get through this year, then work on this thing extensively with my son this winter... clean, rewire, maintenance the Onan, etc. I plan(ed) to spend some $ but would like to just get what I need to get me going/thru. So far, I'm ecstatic with the tractor. Got my pulley's, belts, fuel cleaned up, oil... new blades & Burtha was knocking it out great until this happened. Engine sings (sung) to me. Think I'm loosing trans/hydro oil but there's no oil loss/burn with the Onan. And Thanks fellas! When I figure this thing out, it'll be because of all the hard work the jockeys have put in with the extensive database of knowledge here on RS! While I was ready to start kicking a horse yesterday, I stepped away, came here (actually verified what I had been 'thinking') and got a game plan.

      Does anyone know/have a cross-reference part # for Toro ignition switch #116338 (according to the parts manual - that's the one I need). Need a Gates# or something other than a NAPA # - but I'll take what I can get. 

      What are the better/quicker/serviceable ways to get this thing going? I know I'll have to rig up some new fuses for the (2) that are in the fuse block, they're shot. Also, I've researched for 5hrs on here today plus a few hrs last night & see/learned that the 9-pin is a problem area too... There was at least one snipped line behind the dash, but not the hour meter lol... 
       
       


       
    • Adamsminitractor
      By Adamsminitractor
      Hi ya all. Just a quick question. I have just bought a Toro WH 212-5 thats a none runner. Its none runner simply because the key snapped off on the ignition switch.
      But when i went to pick it up the old owner had very kindly taken out the old switch. My question is i was looking for a "block of wires" that plug onto the back of the switch, however there is not one.
      There are all seperate wires with spades on them so they could go any order. The old switch has 7 posts. Can someone just post a close up photo of the back of there switch if possible, or a wiring diagram that includes ign swch please.
       
      Many thanks Adam
×
×
  • Create New...