Illustrated parts list
6 pages 3.73MB
Illustrated parts list #A-7136
Includes PSB #023 #052 #058 #060 #080
10 pages 938.48KB
Engines used according to Toro
Electric start kit
Electric starter kit model EC-35 for Clinton engine - Listed for 1958 and 1959
Electric starter kit model EK-35 for Kohler engine - Listed for 1958 and 1959
6-12 tire chains model TC-12 - Listed for 1958 and 1959
Seat cushion Foam rubber with imitation leather cover model FC-24 - Listed for 1958 and 1959
Transmission drive belt 1567 - (4L x 29" or 1/2" x 29")
Details & Attachments
2 pages 107.33KB
1958 model RJ-58
1958 serial numbers that have shown up for the RJ-58
Early models used Kohler K90T-27107D equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
01099 - No casting date on trans. Leather gearshift boot, large, round rear wheel hubs, "slab" hitch, replacement engine
01188 - Has round rear wheel hubs
01789 - No casting date on trans. Leather gearshift boot, 3-ear triangular rear wheel hubs, "slab" hitch, Clinton engine with Schnacke recoil
03501 - Located in UK
03796 - Kohler K90T-27107D with serial 364044 equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
06528 - May be 16528
07649 - Transmission J12-8 October 12, 1958
09337 - Hard to read
11628 - # 3521 spline gear with 10 splines changed to 11 splines in 5003 and 5010 transmissions at serial # 11628 PSB #023
12221 - B3-9 trans casting date - Kohler K91 engine with Schnacke recoil
16528 - May be 06528
16868 - F4-9 trans casting date - Kohler K91 engine with Fairbanks recoil, solid pan seat without holes
18500 and lower
Late 1958 units came with a Kohler K-91T-31307A equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
Details & Attachments
2 pages 106.94KB
1959 model RJ-59
1959 serial numbers that have shown up for the RJ-59
Early 1959 units came with a Kohler K-91T-31307A equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
18501 and up - Possible 1100 units built
20078 - Located in UK
21900 - 1960 Suburban 400 began production at serial #21900 somewhere around Aug-Oct 1959.
Late model RJ-59 tractors with a Kohler would have a K-91T-31388A with the Fairbanks recoil starter and paper air filter element. The 31388A was also used on the 1960 Suburban 400.
K91T-31388A Serial 425251 found on RJ-59
im in search of a few things to finish my 56 rj-35.
-rear hitch (lift cradle) PN 3442
- (2) BFG silvertown front 4.8-4x8 tires
New to this forum, Let’s see what other wheelhorse’s are in the UK, I’m in South Wales.
So I went to get a haircut this morning in the neighboring town of Kingsland. Saw a few garage sale sign so I though I'd check them out. The Garage Sales were a bust, but as I drove through the area, I spotted this 1960 Wheel Horse Suburban being used as a mail box post. It was chained and locked to the T post and the front rims were sunk well into the dirt like it had been there quite a while. I momentarily though about knockings on the door, but the hood was cut, there was no motor and the transmission shifter rubber boot was long gone. I say it's a 1960 as it had the treadplate foot rest. It's probable best left for the yard art it's currently being used for.
So I started to do just a little touch up painting on my RMR-32 deck to get ready for mowing season and it just snowballed from there.
I messed up my touch up by wet sanding it down to early, so that led to a "well I'll just take it completely apart and repaint everything". This is where the fun begins. Taking it apart revealed multiple issues:
1) Idler pulley bronze bearing is shot.
2) All 4 spindle bearings are shot.
3) Both cross shaft bearings are shot.
4) Cross shaft is bent.
Here are these issues and the help that I need in greater detail:
1) The Idler Pulley Bronze Bearing:
I mic'd it at 5/8" x 7/8" x 1". This is based on the OD and the length of the Idler bolt (part #1049), and the OD of the exposed portion of the bronze bearing in the idler pulley. Idler pulley (part #1602).
1) What is the actual size for the bronze bearing?
2) Can this bearing even be replaced? It is in a peculiar place and appears to be held in 2 spots, one spot on either side of the pulley. I can't see inside until I cut the bearing out so it's hard to tell whether or not the is a tube of sort that makes contact with the bearing throughout the pulley, like the axle tube bearings. And it seams like this would, or could be a royal pain to set the new bearing if it only has two points of contact.
2) 4 Spindle Bearings:
Wheel Horse part #1515. I ordered the Toro replacement. Part # 230-045.
Well, I order NICE 1630 DCTNTG18's (3/4" IDx 1-5/8"OD x 1/2"W. The Toro replacement is a sealed bearing on both sides, so that's what I got. However, the originals that were in the deck were metal shielded on both sides. This got me thinking. The idea of the shielded bearing is to allow for grease to make it's way from my grease gun, through the zerk, onto the gears, through the bearings, and then eventually on the ground.
Is it a bad idea to have gotten the sealed bearings for the spindles? Or will the sealed be fine fore weekly operation?
3) The Cross Shaft Bearings Are Shot:
I was planning on replacing these with the same sealed NICE bearings. The question is the same as the spindle bearings. The originals were also shielded, so is it okay to replace with the sealed bearings?
4) Bent Cross Shaft (Part #3139):
The bend is extremely miniscule; hardly noticeable at operating speed. I knew this years ago but ignored it. I've now figured out that this is why the cross shaft bearings are bad. Also, since the bearings are harder than the steel cross shaft, the bearings wallard out the cross shaft and they no longer seat properly on the cross shaft. Well, it's ground it down so much that the can't seat at all. Not to mention it's wearing the gears out too.
Is there someone here that has a good one that I can purchase? Or can anyone make one up for me? I've emailed Lowell Scholljegerdes but haven't heard back. He's made several parts for me over the years.
Any help is appreciated.