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WheelHorse520H

607 transmission binding when coasting (among other issues)

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stevasaurus

A little bearing puller is the ticket for pulling that input shaft bearing.  I usually hammer a small screw drive down along the side of the bearing.  It will rip and come out with a needle nose pliers if you can get it to rip.  :occasion-xmas:  The case gasket is a #3912 available from Lowell or TORO or make your own from gasket material from Auto Zone.

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WheelHorse520H

I need to order a new brake band as well, does anyone know the part number for it? I googled around but can’t seem to find much.

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stevasaurus

@rmaynard sells them...he is in the vendor section.  Contact him.  :thumbs:

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rmaynard
3 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

@rmaynard sells them...he is in the vendor section.  Contact him.  :thumbs:

Just a clarification, I sell brake linings, not the whole brake band.

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WheelHorse520H
14 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Just a clarification, I sell brake linings, not the whole brake band.

That’ll do, the lining just wore out so much that I have no parking brake. I’ll meander over the the vendor section for these questions more often.

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, WheelHorse520H said:

That’ll do, the lining just wore out so much that I have no parking brake. I’ll meander over the the vendor section for these questions more often.

 

One would think that parts availability on a 50 or 60 year old machine would be a challenge. 

Actually the opposite is true. 

 

Wheelhorse tractors have quite a following as you're well aware. 

Several of us have our own small version of salvage yards or parts departments. 

 

Pretty much anything that wears out can be had from one of our vendors. 

Most anything else (like hard parts) can be had from someone's spares or A to Z Tractor in PA. 

 

 

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WheelHorse520H
16 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

One would think that parts availability on a 50 or 60 year old machine would be a challenge. 

Actually the opposite is true. 

It’s a good thing too! I was surprised when I found that out a couple months ago because the parts for the P220 on my 520 are not as cheap sometimes, even though it’s 21 years younger.

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WheelHorse520H

Wow that was a lot of money that I spent, but at least now I have all new bearings, case gasket, shift boot, brake band, a new engine pulley, and stuff to reattach the trailer hitch and to adapt my plow blade to fit both tractors. So, it was in the end well worth the money. Hopefully I can get this thing done in a week or two.

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WheelHorse520H

So my bearings should be here tomorrow, is there a certain way I should put them in? I’m especially interested in the ones with oil seals, like the outer axle bearings. Anyone got some way they found works really well?

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ebinmaine

Biggest thing is to use a driver that puts equal even pressure all around the bearing housing. 

There are commercially available drivers on the market. I just recently bought a set of them. Wasn't cheap but ... For us here with the amount of work we do it's worth it. 

There are certainly very good alternatives. 

I've used a wooden closet pole. Some use the right size PVC pipe. I like that idea. 

I've also used the old bearing as the driving mechanism by holding it against the new bearing. 

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WheelHorse520H
11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I've also used the old bearing as the driving mechanism by holding it against the new bearing. 

Old bearing it is, good thing I kept them. Does it matter if I push the bearing in from the outside of the case or the inside?

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ebinmaine
Just now, WheelHorse520H said:

Old bearing it is, good thing I kept them. Does it matter if I push the bearing in from the outside of the case or the inside?

Ya know I'm not sure....

 

By habit of my own creation I drive all but the outer wheel bearings from the inside. The outer wheel bearings I've done both in to out and out to in. 

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WheelHorse520H
4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I drive all but the outer wheel bearings from the inside.

That was my plan because I think they’ll fit better on the gears and shafts. If you’ve done both then I’ll go from whichever I find easiest. Unless @stevasaurus has some knowledge about this side of it.

 

Looks like USPS didn’t update their info this morning because now it says delivered. The only thing I am waiting on is the shift boot. It looks like that is expected tomorrow. Woohoo!

Edited by WheelHorse520H
Update about parts delivery
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stevasaurus

If you have 2 bearings for the input shaft, I drive one from the outside and the other from the inside.  The inside one is flush, the outside one is in enough to make the seal flush.  The cap bearings , I drive in from the outside...flush with the outside.  The brake shaft side, I drive in from the outside...in far enough to have the seal be flush.  Outer axle bearings from the outside...in far enough to have the seals be flush.  Look at the bearings, one end is rounded, the other is squared.  Round end goes in first, squared end is for the arbor or punch if you go that route.  :occasion-xmas:

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stevasaurus

I just re-read what was said by you guys above.  This bearing thing is common sense...let's talk about the "Cap Bearings" for a second.  Those "need" to be flush with the outside of the case...why would you push them in from the inside (a farther distance) then need be??  That thought applies to the rest of the bearings as well.  Your thinking that a cap bearing should be recessed some to make the shaft tighter is not sound.  It is made to be flush with the outside of the case...any more and you may not get your two case halves together.  Think about it??  It is a lot easier to seat the bearing in the right place from the outside.  If you press it from the inside, you run the risk of not getting it flush or you may have to tap it back in a little to make it flush.  Why would you do that??  :confusion-confused:  Getting the correct seat comes from the outside in...except if you have a second bearing on your input shaft (3 and 4 speed Transmissions).  That one you want flush with the inside of the case.

   A neat trick for placing bearings...put them in your freezer for a day and seat them as you take them out.  Rub a touch of 3 -1 oil in the case half and tap in your bearing.  That little bit of constriction makes the job a piece of cake.  :occasion-xmas:

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WheelHorse520H

It’s too bad I got all the bearing in, but good tips for next time Steve. I do not know what is happening, all the gears move good just like in your video, but then when I put the other case half on they don’t. The differential moves fine but the rest don’t. I thought I just didn’t get a good grip but I took it apart again and double checked everything and it is all in the right spot. I though I just didn’t have a good grip so I put it on the tractor anyways, but it is so stuck it stalls the engine. What did I do wrong here?

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stevasaurus

Take it back off the frame and open it back up.  You will hurt it and waste your money if you run it like it is.  Open it with the shallow end down and before you take anything out, take a few pictures from different angles and levels and post them here.  Are your cap bearings flush with the out side of the case??  One thing you for sure you did wrong, you put a transmission that has something not right back on a tractor.  :confusion-confused:  Something is pinching the shafts inside for sure.  One common mistake is the little pinion gear on top of the splined shaft is under the "C" clip and not on top.  Another issue, your differential could be placed upside down.  The nuts on those bolts need to face the brake shaft side (Left side).  

Pictures, Pictures, Pictures.

   When you say the differential moves fine, you are just turning one axle which only rotates the pinion gears in side...not the whole differential.  :occasion-xmas:

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WheelHorse520H

I got your PM @stevasaurus, thanks for the offer I got it all sorted out. Long story, last night when I was trying to take out the bearing in the input gear and used the method with the screw and ripping it, but it was too brittle and just kept breaking. So I used a Dremel to sand out what I could, I got the bearing in as far as I could thinking it just needed a little tappity tap with a rubber mallet but what I didn’t see was I weakened the top of the bearing. When it all went together the splined shaft pushed the bearing in and where I sanded was slightly cone shaped…hence why it would not go in. The pressure forced the splines to crush in on the splined shaft causing everything to bind. So I took the bearing out and sanded the gear out more and got it to slide in much easier. Unfortunately, during this process some splined from the bearing were lost. On the plus all I need is a new gasket and a splined shaft bearing.

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stevasaurus

Are you talking about the 5/8" bearing that sits inside of the input shaft??  :confusion-confused:

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WheelHorse520H
9 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Are you talking about the 5/8" bearing that sits inside of the input shaft??  :confusion-confused:

Yes, WH part number 1531. I already ordered it (again) from Lowell, as well as a new case gasket since I ripped mine in 3 different spots today.

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stevasaurus

:handgestures-thumbupright:  

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WheelHorse520H
On 11/6/2021 at 5:03 PM, WheelHorse520H said:

Yes, WH part number 1531. I already ordered it (again) from Lowell, as well as a new case gasket since I ripped mine in 3 different spots today.

I was mistaken, the bearing I needed was the 1518 not the 1531 I didn’t notice until I got it that the 1531 has a cap and was slightly taller. I misunderstood the spreadsheet with the bearing numbers, I thought the in end input bearing meant it was the inboard bearing for the input shaft since the axle bearings are also labeled in end and out end… turns out that’s the one I needed, unfortunately that’s gonna be another week. Live and learn I guess, on the bright side the actual on I need is like $3 cheaper.

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WheelHorse520H

Today’s the day, I was freezing and tired and couldn’t see well but it’s all together…and works in all gears with no problems, at least that I’ve found yet. I started to put my plow on but just lost the energy tonight so I figured I’d give an update.

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ebinmaine

Excellent 👍

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